VRM/VVR in silvertone 1482 questions

[parsnip]

Hi All,

First post here. I’ve learned so much from reading/lurking and the experience, skill and generosity here is amazing.

I’ve got a Silvertone 1482 that I love love love, especially when it is pushing the power tubes hard, but it is too loud most of the time. So I’m looking at putting in a VRM from Trinity (like Dana Hall’s VVR). I want to scale the whole amp (no MV), but not scale down the function of the tremolo too much. I’ve got a couple of questions about how to pull it off.

1. Where should I break into B+ and have it enter and exit the VRM? I imagine there are a few options, but I want to get it right.
2. What should I do to avoid having the VRM scale down the trem?

Thanks for any advice you can offer.

P.S. I’m attaching
- the schematics for a 1482 (which I have a hard time entirely reading)
- wiring diagram for a 1472, but I am fairly certain having studied it and my actual 1482 interior that the wiring is the same re the B+ path)

And here is a link to the VRM instructions from Trinity: https://www.trinityamps.com/wp-docs/VRM ... sGuide.pdf

[martin manning]

I would consider adding a pre- or post-PI master first. Either way, if the sound you like is coming from driving the power tubes hard, you will lose that. By far the easiest way to try it is to replace the 1M grid resistor on the phase inverter (R18 in the layout) with a 1Meg pot.

[Stevem]

Note that these amps use a OT with the 4 ohm tap that the amp runs on as made, but they also have a 8 ohm tap that is unused on the terminal strip.
If your running the stock 4 ohm speaker I would see how you like the volume difference with the speaker hooked up to the 8 ohm tap.

You might also investigate picking up a pair of 6K6G output tubes.
These are a drop in for 6V6 tubes yet can only produce about 1/2 the output power.

With any other mods you do to one degree or another your gonna kill off some of what you love about the amps stock wide open sound and feel.

[martin manning]

Here's a better MV you can try. Lift the end of C6 that connects to R18, and insert the pot and cap there. Overdriving a cathodyne PI does not usually sound good, so I'm guessing this simple pre-PI solution will be pretty transparent except for the reduction in speaker volume, which will unavoidably change the overall character to some degree.

[xtian]

This is a low wattage amp--I suggest using a simple 50w L-Pad between the speaker and amp. Simple, inexpensive, and sounds great.

[parsnip]

Wow. Thank you all. For some reason, the notifications function doesn't seem to be working, so sorry for the slow reply.

Quick thoughts and follow up questions:
- Thanks for the 6k6 suggestion. I had actually already done it, and I like it better, but still too loud.
- I've installed jacks for the 4 and 8 ohm taps, and I've found that driving the 4 ohm speaker w/ the 8 ohm jack doesn't actually make much volume difference (it changes the sound, but not too much). I also worry a bit about 8 ohms to a 4ohm speaker with an old tube amp dimed, but maybe I'm too uptight.
- L-Pad: Very interesting. I was thinking about just biting the bullet and building an L-Pad. I prefer something a bit more built in, and I like how the VRM may increase tube life when driving hard, and I like that it is a bit more challenging, and would force me to learn more. On the upside, for the L-Pad though, I know I could do it, it isn't too expensive, and it can be plugged in without modifying the guts of an otherwise minty vintage amp.

Questions:
- Do any of the MV suggestions drive the power section (thats the dirt I love from this amp)? In my experience, MV is all about driving preamp.
- What are the pros/cons of the L-Pad vs the VRR/VRM?
- Top of mind for me: Can anyone suggest where/how to actually just install the VRM/VRR in this amp and have it function/not mess with the trem? (The OG Question).

Thanks all!

[xtian]

What are the pros/cons of the L-Pad vs the VRR/VRM?

L-pad:

Pro: allows you to drive your power section hard, like any post-amplifier attenuator.

Con: loss of high end with high attenuation (no issue for me, I just crank the Treble)

[pompeiisneaks]

Wow. Thank you all. For some reason, the notifications function doesn't seem to be working, so sorry for the slow reply.
...

Sorry, the owner of the domain won't allow me to fix the email services on the forums so they're likely to work spottily ate best and more often not at all.

~Phil

[parsnip]

Wow. Thank you all. For some reason, the notifications function doesn't seem to be working, so sorry for the slow reply.
...

Sorry, the owner of the domain won't allow me to fix the email services on the forums so they're likely to work spottily ate best and more often not at all.

~Phil

its ok! thank you. Just gives me an excuse to check all the time...

[parsnip]

What are the pros/cons of the L-Pad vs the VRR/VRM?

L-pad:

Pro: allows you to drive your power section hard, like any post-amplifier attenuator.

Con: loss of high end with high attenuation (no issue for me, I just crank the Treble)

Alright. This is helpful. Look like I can build an L-pad w/ a 4ohm option and a couple bright caps for less than $50, which could be the easiest way.

Still, holding out for VRM/VRR intel/ideas.

Thanks all.