Toneking Ironman Mini Attenuator

[CraigGa]

Does anyone have the schematic for a Toneking Ironman Mini II attenuator?

I'm thinking of building a cut down version into my amp but I've not been able to track down the schematic.

I do have the attenuator but the double sided pcb and multipole switch are making it difficult to trace.

Thanks
Craig

[Stevem]

Draw out each side of the board component wise and then find the pass thru points that connect one side of the board with the other ( holes with no solder in them) and then add those to your drawing in a different color pen or whatever and you have what you need to build from then.

[CraigGa]

I'll have another go at tracing it, there are no components underneath the pcb but plenty of tracks on the top travel underneath resistors and such.

I'll also try the Big Clive method of photographing both sides and mirroring one so they can be viewed side by side.

Craig

[CraigGa]

Who need sudoku when you have brain exercise like this?

Craig

20210929_123032.jpg

[Hoodnight]

Hey man, would it be possible to get a better image of the final schematic? Would love to put something similar in my first build just to completely ensure it's a nightmare for troubleshooting!

[CraigGa]

Yes I'll post it up for you.
I'm a bit tied up at the moment so it might take a couple of days.

Craig

[CraigGa]

This is the full schematic as I reverse engineered it

Reactive Load Full.jpg

and this is the distilled down version that I built into my amp

Reactive Load -10dB -15dB -18dB.jpg

These are the inductors
https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/542-2324-H-RC

And this is the switch
https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/611-A30415RSZQE

The switch is very important as there aren't many available with sufficient current rating.

Craig

[MadJack]

Very cool thanks!

[Hoodnight]

Mate you're a deadset legend, cheers!

Any idea on the values for R28, R29, and C8?

[CraigGa]

Mate you're a deadset legend, cheers!

Any idea on the values for R28, R29, and C8?

Whoops
It looks like 10K, 680K and 0.01uF

Craig

Edited incorrect resistor value.

[sluckey]

It looks like 10K, 28K and 0.01uF

I don't see a 28K but I do see a 680K. I also see a 330Ω on the board but not on the schematic?

[CraigGa]

It looks like 10K, 28K and 0.01uF

I don't see a 28K but I do see a 680K. I also see a 330Ω on the board but not on the schematic?

Yes you're correct it is 680K I got confused with the resistor numbers, I'll edit the original post.

The 330R is a current limiter for the LED but you're right, I missed that off too.

Craig

[unknowntome]

This is the full schematic as I reverse engineered it
Reactive Load Full.jpg


and this is the distilled down version that I built into my amp
Reactive Load -10dB -15dB -18dB.jpg


These are the inductors
https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/542-2324-H-RC

And this is the switch
https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/611-A30415RSZQE

The switch is very important as there aren't many available with sufficient current rating.

Craig

Thank you Craig.. I just finished your simplified version and it works perfectly!