looks like the "standard line" links are dead.
i'll get right on it
Nameplates
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
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David Root
- Posts: 3540
- Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 3:00 pm
- Location: Chilliwack BC
Replies
RiffRaff, no problem. I used the gold Alumamrk on that one. It's the most expensive material and cost about $80 IIRC.
The faceplate is supported in place by the pot and jack barrels and locked in place by their nuts, same as an old Fender.
I seem to use the Alumamark on head boxes and the thicker metal on combos (tried the thinner metal once but it creases very easily if you don't trim it carefully before fitting the chassis with the faceplate in place into the head box). Haven't tried the much thicker non-stock metal yet but I just might. It's closer to what Fender used to use on '60s brown & BF amps, and that is tuff-tuff-tuff, as Jagger used to say.
The faceplate is supported in place by the pot and jack barrels and locked in place by their nuts, same as an old Fender.
I seem to use the Alumamark on head boxes and the thicker metal on combos (tried the thinner metal once but it creases very easily if you don't trim it carefully before fitting the chassis with the faceplate in place into the head box). Haven't tried the much thicker non-stock metal yet but I just might. It's closer to what Fender used to use on '60s brown & BF amps, and that is tuff-tuff-tuff, as Jagger used to say.
Re: Replies
Sorry I meant how did you attach the name Red Head to the head?David Root wrote:RiffRaff, no problem. I used the gold Alumamrk on that one. It's the most expensive material and cost about $80 IIRC.
The faceplate is supported in place by the pot and jack barrels and locked in place by their nuts, same as an old Fender.
I seem to use the Alumamark on head boxes and the thicker metal on combos (tried the thinner metal once but it creases very easily if you don't trim it carefully before fitting the chassis with the faceplate in place into the head box). Haven't tried the much thicker non-stock metal yet but I just might. It's closer to what Fender used to use on '60s brown & BF amps, and that is tuff-tuff-tuff, as Jagger used to say.
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David Root
- Posts: 3540
- Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 3:00 pm
- Location: Chilliwack BC
Re: Nameplates
Oh!! Sorry.
I don't have it in front of me but I am pretty sure I used small pieces of a heavy duty double sided foam tape that I also used to fix pickup bobbins to my coil winder.
Made by 3M, type VHB 4549 I think. Expensive, decent carpet tape would likely work just as well, and is much cheaper and easier to get. I just cut small pieces for the ends and the middle so that you couldn't see them when they were in place. I had built a matching red 4x12 slant stack that I put another copy of the same logo on. Sharp!
I don't have it in front of me but I am pretty sure I used small pieces of a heavy duty double sided foam tape that I also used to fix pickup bobbins to my coil winder.
Made by 3M, type VHB 4549 I think. Expensive, decent carpet tape would likely work just as well, and is much cheaper and easier to get. I just cut small pieces for the ends and the middle so that you couldn't see them when they were in place. I had built a matching red 4x12 slant stack that I put another copy of the same logo on. Sharp!
Best place is WeberVST
WeberVST is the least expensive and they do a very good job. At least they are getting better at it. $30 one time setup fee and about $12 flat per plate depending on the size. So if you need more of the same plates later the setup is taken care of.
The first plates I got from them were the flex plastic, very thin, about 1/32" thick and will break VERY easy especially on the corners. Kind of a contradiction being called flex plastic. The next set of plates I got were 1/16" thick. Very rigid and holds up nice as far as staying flat. Just in case though, I use 3M double sided tape to tack the areas where it may warp. They have several differnt plate color combinations.
I used Adobe Illustrator to draw the layout. Doesn't really matter what you use as long as it is a vector based software, so any CAD program will work. It is convenient to use Illustrator because that is what Weber mainly uses.
Their machine is very precise and my plates fit perfectly. Contact CJ there and he will want to email the entire process to keep record of any changes, etc. They don't answer their phone anymore so you will have to email him. In fact I noticed they have taken their phone number off the contact page. They must be really busy with web orders I guess. His email is cj at webervst dot com.
The first plates I got from them were the flex plastic, very thin, about 1/32" thick and will break VERY easy especially on the corners. Kind of a contradiction being called flex plastic. The next set of plates I got were 1/16" thick. Very rigid and holds up nice as far as staying flat. Just in case though, I use 3M double sided tape to tack the areas where it may warp. They have several differnt plate color combinations.
I used Adobe Illustrator to draw the layout. Doesn't really matter what you use as long as it is a vector based software, so any CAD program will work. It is convenient to use Illustrator because that is what Weber mainly uses.
Their machine is very precise and my plates fit perfectly. Contact CJ there and he will want to email the entire process to keep record of any changes, etc. They don't answer their phone anymore so you will have to email him. In fact I noticed they have taken their phone number off the contact page. They must be really busy with web orders I guess. His email is cj at webervst dot com.