Input jacks for thick faceplates

[JMFahey]

What pots will you use there?
They'll also need long threaded "necks".

Personally, I'd use a standard sheet metal front panel, I use aluminum but you can also use steel if you have the proper tooling, and glue a thin veneer sheet, real wood of course, which can be stained, burnt, polished, lacquered, anything you wish.

Best of both worlds, mainly because you can use standard parts.

I guess veneer is around 0.5 mm thick and you can get beautiful woods.

[Tone Lover]

What pots will you use there?
They'll also need long threaded "necks".

Personally, I'd use a standard sheet metal front panel, I use aluminum but you can also use steel if you have the proper tooling, and glue a thin veneer sheet, real wood of course, which can be stained, burnt, polished, lacquered, anything you wish.

Best of both worlds, mainly because you can use standard parts.

I guess veneer is around 0.5 mm thick and you can get beautiful woods.

Good thought my friend I have some good pots that fit. There easy to find with a .375 long neck . Jacks on the other hand leave me with only switchcraft jacks to use and they ground to the chassis . I did not think things through before I ordered the plate.

I went with the 3/4 inch hole punch on the chassis. Cosmetics still look good and the faceplate is plenty strong.
More importantly my grounding scheme is still intact.
If it wasn't just a build for a friend I would have ordered a different faceplate.
I was ordering some faceplates for a couple other builds and Sandy at precision design said she had some real nice alder 1/8th inch thick that when hit with medium stain looked real nice so I tried one . The laser etching was awesome on wood.
I figured it would match well with the oak head cab I was making .

Thank You gentleman for all your thoughts and idea's. the solder smoke is calling (LOL)
Bill