1st build hemming and hawing
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
Re: 1st build hemming and hawing
Yes I thread by hand and then tighten with pliers, gently.
Re: 1st build hemming and hawing
Remove it from the chassis. Use the proper size wrench. Make sure the nut is aligned properly. Use the nut at a thread chaser and work it all the way down. The nut is metal and harder than the fuseholder, so it should do the job OK.
If you have the correct diameter and thread size in a regular nut, you may do better using that as a thread chaser.
A pliers is the wrong tool. It can distort the nut when pressed too tight and it makes a poor grip, even a slip joint pliers.
Before you do that, inspect the threads on the nut and make sure the inside of the nut isn't the problem.
Once you have it working, it should be OK to install.
If you have the correct diameter and thread size in a regular nut, you may do better using that as a thread chaser.
A pliers is the wrong tool. It can distort the nut when pressed too tight and it makes a poor grip, even a slip joint pliers.
Before you do that, inspect the threads on the nut and make sure the inside of the nut isn't the problem.
Once you have it working, it should be OK to install.
- Scooter Thomas
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Sat Aug 10, 2013 9:40 pm
- Location: Austin, TX
Re: 1st build hemming and hawing
Okay, that worked. The nut sucked up just fine with a wrench. My experience with plastic bolts is limited to toilet seat fasteners
.
My last hardware issue is that the turret board does not fasten to the two standoffs. Does the board just rest on top of them?
My last hardware issue is that the turret board does not fasten to the two standoffs. Does the board just rest on top of them?
Re: 1st build hemming and hawing
If these are nylon tube type stand offs (or metal ones, too) run a bolt through and use a nylock nut. So, it's like this, from outside in:
bolt > chassis > standoff > board > nylock
or you can do it the other way around with the nylock on the outside of the chassis.
Here is a close up of a nylock and a picture of a recent build -- I was out of nylock nuts so I just used conventional with toothed washers.
bolt > chassis > standoff > board > nylock
or you can do it the other way around with the nylock on the outside of the chassis.
Here is a close up of a nylock and a picture of a recent build -- I was out of nylock nuts so I just used conventional with toothed washers.
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- Scooter Thomas
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Sat Aug 10, 2013 9:40 pm
- Location: Austin, TX
Re: 1st build hemming and hawing
My kit included two short metal hex standoffs (threaded nut on one end, threaded post on other end.) With all the hardware mounted, only two chassis holes remain. I suppose the standoffs may go there -- the holes are the correct size -- but the hole positions seem odd. The alignment would go right down the center of the board (if the board was drilled, it's not). With just two standoffs I would think you would want to anchor two opposite corners. Again, the turret board is not drilled to fasten to the standoffs. And there are no nylon washers or anything that would insulate the standoffs from the chassis.
Sorry I don't have pics. I have a call in to Triode, maybe they'll have some answers.
Phil, your reply didn't speak to my particular issue (I wasn't explicit enough), but your pics were very informative. Beautiful work and close examination answered some questions I had about turret construction and soldering, and fastening.
Sorry I don't have pics. I have a call in to Triode, maybe they'll have some answers.
Phil, your reply didn't speak to my particular issue (I wasn't explicit enough), but your pics were very informative. Beautiful work and close examination answered some questions I had about turret construction and soldering, and fastening.
Re: 1st build hemming and hawing
It is hard without pictures. I'll guess.
The threaded post should go into the chassis. There should be a PEM nut embedded to take the post. If there is no PEM nut (a type of captive nut pressed into the chassis), then I guess you put a screw through the chassis into the standoff. At the other end, the post goes through the board and is kept in place with a standard or nylock nut.
If the board isn't drilled, you'll need to drill it. Two standoffs should be adequate. I prefer 4, but not essential.
If that's not it, we need pictures. Or you can get the nylon standoff bushings with hardware and set aside the hex standoffs. I buy them loose at a local Ace Hardware. I think you can even get them at the Home Despot.
That board in my pic is a generic one. I had trimmed it and miscalculated where to cut. Mounting was not as I would have preferred, but still good enough.
I am an amateur. My build is at best average. Nevertheless, thank you for your kind words. Some of the guys here are really good with their hands and tools. Not me so much. I build one or two in a year.
The threaded post should go into the chassis. There should be a PEM nut embedded to take the post. If there is no PEM nut (a type of captive nut pressed into the chassis), then I guess you put a screw through the chassis into the standoff. At the other end, the post goes through the board and is kept in place with a standard or nylock nut.
If the board isn't drilled, you'll need to drill it. Two standoffs should be adequate. I prefer 4, but not essential.
If that's not it, we need pictures. Or you can get the nylon standoff bushings with hardware and set aside the hex standoffs. I buy them loose at a local Ace Hardware. I think you can even get them at the Home Despot.
That board in my pic is a generic one. I had trimmed it and miscalculated where to cut. Mounting was not as I would have preferred, but still good enough.
I am an amateur. My build is at best average. Nevertheless, thank you for your kind words. Some of the guys here are really good with their hands and tools. Not me so much. I build one or two in a year.
- Scooter Thomas
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Sat Aug 10, 2013 9:40 pm
- Location: Austin, TX
Re: 1st build hemming and hawing
You're exactly right, I'll have to drill the board for the standoffs. I don't see any way around it. I think a dremel will work but I'll have to get a bit.
I'm dumbfounded that someone would engineer a turret board including thru holes for the lead wires but stop short at drilling for the fasteners. I'm further dumbfounded someone would package this as a beginner kit but provide no minimal instruction indicating fastening requirements. Since I'm new to this, I've foolishly already populated the board, sigh.
On the other hand, for years I've read about the problems folks have with kits, chassis, fitting parts etc. That's largely why I've put off amp building for so long. I'm just not tooled up for it.
Still, even the aggravation is kinda fun! I'm learning little things along the way, and I'll get better tooled up. I'm not discouraged. I continue to appreciate the hand holding.
I'm dumbfounded that someone would engineer a turret board including thru holes for the lead wires but stop short at drilling for the fasteners. I'm further dumbfounded someone would package this as a beginner kit but provide no minimal instruction indicating fastening requirements. Since I'm new to this, I've foolishly already populated the board, sigh.
On the other hand, for years I've read about the problems folks have with kits, chassis, fitting parts etc. That's largely why I've put off amp building for so long. I'm just not tooled up for it.
Still, even the aggravation is kinda fun! I'm learning little things along the way, and I'll get better tooled up. I'm not discouraged. I continue to appreciate the hand holding.
Re: 1st build hemming and hawing
Use a regular drill if you have one. I guess Dremel is OK. Make sure the board is clamped properly to a backer board.Scooter Thomas wrote:You're exactly right, I'll have to drill the board for the standoffs. I don't see any way around it. I think a dremel will work but I'll have to get a bit.
This is a board without a chassis? IMHO mounting holes are properly omitted. If it came with a punched chassis, maybe you're right, but, unfortunately that doesn't matter. You got what you got. Make lemonade.I'm dumbfounded that someone would engineer a turret board including thru holes for the lead wires but stop short at drilling for the fasteners.
Now that you know this, you're not new anymore. Consider yourself in the know. Adjust your expectations accordingly. The quality of documentation and support varies a great deal. BTW, this is a prime example of why recommendations are made to build something simple the first time. You learn stuff. Lots of things aren't obvious the first time around.I'm further dumbfounded someone would package this as a beginner kit but provide no minimal instruction indicating fastening requirements. Since I'm new to this, I've foolishly already populated the board, sigh.
This sort of hobby is for people who want to solve minor problems like this.On the other hand, for years I've read about the problems folks have with kits, chassis, fitting parts etc. That's largely why I've put off amp building for so long. I'm just not tooled up for it.
That's better! We are amp builders. Now you are one, too!Still, even the aggravation is kinda fun! I'm learning little things along the way, and I'll get better tooled up. I'm not discouraged. I continue to appreciate the hand holding.
We fix what doesn't work. We help each other.
Re: 1st build hemming and hawing
Quite common I've found that the manufacturer doesn't drill any mounting holes or at least that has been the case with me.
I don't find mounting holes to line up with these sellers products either so I always expect to play chief engineer on all my projects.
Just another title to add to my resume I guess.
Take it slow and keep asking questions your doing well.
Mark
I don't find mounting holes to line up with these sellers products either so I always expect to play chief engineer on all my projects.
Take it slow and keep asking questions your doing well.
Mark
- Scooter Thomas
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Sat Aug 10, 2013 9:40 pm
- Location: Austin, TX
Closure
Reviving this zombie may be self indulgent, but it's a bit closure for me so here goes.
Like 18 months ago I began this boy-meets-champ thread, my attempt at amp building.
I got a champ kit from Triode Electronics. I began with wiring the turret board, mounting transformers, jacks, sockets. I hit some snags and was kinda stuck, when my wife was diagnosed with breast cancer. She's fine now. But in the intervening time I lost much interest in many things including amp building.
Well, last week I paid a guy to finish the build, and this is the part that may be of some little interest amp-wise.
Long story short, this circuit sounds terrific with a KT66, I would say eye-popping even. I had provisioned for the KT66 with a 15 watt OT and 10 watt cathode resistor. The tube is a Gold Lion that survived a PT failure on my JTM45, his brother didn't make it. I really didn't know what to expect with the KT66, but I'm way happy with the result; much better than a 6V6. For the first time ever I can get a gratifying kinda Midnight Blue Kenny Burrell jazz tone with my old SG (humbuckers). Turn it up for great blues/rock too. It's big fun!
So now my tale is complete. Thanks to Cliff and all you guys that have indulged me here. IMHO Ampgarage is a serious braintrust, the best -- most advanced -- amp building community.
Like 18 months ago I began this boy-meets-champ thread, my attempt at amp building.
I got a champ kit from Triode Electronics. I began with wiring the turret board, mounting transformers, jacks, sockets. I hit some snags and was kinda stuck, when my wife was diagnosed with breast cancer. She's fine now. But in the intervening time I lost much interest in many things including amp building.
Well, last week I paid a guy to finish the build, and this is the part that may be of some little interest amp-wise.
Long story short, this circuit sounds terrific with a KT66, I would say eye-popping even. I had provisioned for the KT66 with a 15 watt OT and 10 watt cathode resistor. The tube is a Gold Lion that survived a PT failure on my JTM45, his brother didn't make it. I really didn't know what to expect with the KT66, but I'm way happy with the result; much better than a 6V6. For the first time ever I can get a gratifying kinda Midnight Blue Kenny Burrell jazz tone with my old SG (humbuckers). Turn it up for great blues/rock too. It's big fun!
So now my tale is complete. Thanks to Cliff and all you guys that have indulged me here. IMHO Ampgarage is a serious braintrust, the best -- most advanced -- amp building community.
Re: 1st build hemming and hawing
Congrats on your success, and also best to your wife.
Been there done that, not easy, live strong be well.
Been there done that, not easy, live strong be well.
- Scooter Thomas
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Sat Aug 10, 2013 9:40 pm
- Location: Austin, TX
Re: 1st build hemming and hawing
Thanks for the nice words. My wife now volunteers with the Breast Cancer Resource Center of Austin and last night they held their annual fund raiser called Art Bra. 6 months in the planning, they raised over 75 grand which directly assists Central Texas women, and occasionally men, facing breast cancer. So,yeah, surviving it kinda becomes a way of life. Whatever your situation may be, I hope and pray it's a positive one. Thanks again.
http://artbraaustin.org
http://artbraaustin.org