SLO-100 Rev. 1.3
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
SLO-100 Rev. 1.3
Am building an Ampclones SLO-100 Rev. 1.3 amp. Anybody else out there built one or in the process of building one? Seems there are discrepancies between the layout and schematic and incorrect designations on the mainboard in so far as specific potentiometer connections. Tried using the layout and had NO distortion and the second volume control was not operational. Then I created my own layout based on the schematic and traced out every single connection to the mainboard. Now I have NO sound at all. Before amp was super clean but loud. Rechecked bias and it is on the money. If anyone has run into any problems they have solved pertaining to this mainboard or can offer any advice on how to proceed I'd appreciate it. This is driving me nuts. Have already replaced 5 of the 7 LDR's, all of the caps and replaced any resistors that were off based on the info in the BOM. No Luck.
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Tone Lover
- Posts: 261
- Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 4:39 am
- Location: Everett Wa.
Re: SLO-100 Rev. 1.3
Post this question at sloclone forum and you will get alot of help.
Bill
PS. not that these guys dont build high gain amps. But that forum is geared to that amp.
Bill
PS. not that these guys dont build high gain amps. But that forum is geared to that amp.
Re: SLO-100 Rev. 1.3
I did and they asked me to create a new post. Said I was confusing them. Guess they don't want me posting in 'their' thread.
Re: SLO-100 Rev. 1.3
He means slocloneforums.com not the other SLO build thread here
There are several really knowledgeable SLO/high gain guys over there, although most build using the layouts and Schematics they developed on that board, not the Ampclones version. That said, I am sure someone over there has built an Ampclones version
I just got a Decatone board from Ampclones (that took almost 3 months to get here) I am sure I will be in the same boat if I run into issues with that build since there does not seem to be much (any) support from Ampclones. I emailed several times to try and get the schem and bom so I could order parts ahead of time and never heard a thing back. Then almost 3 months later it was at my doorstep but still no schem or bom. Board looks solid though
There are several really knowledgeable SLO/high gain guys over there, although most build using the layouts and Schematics they developed on that board, not the Ampclones version. That said, I am sure someone over there has built an Ampclones version
I just got a Decatone board from Ampclones (that took almost 3 months to get here) I am sure I will be in the same boat if I run into issues with that build since there does not seem to be much (any) support from Ampclones. I emailed several times to try and get the schem and bom so I could order parts ahead of time and never heard a thing back. Then almost 3 months later it was at my doorstep but still no schem or bom. Board looks solid though
SLO-100 Ampclones
Yes. The boards are very well made. It took about 3 months for me to receive my boards as well and another few weeks to gather up the parts after I received the BOM. I have found that some of the component values are missing from the BOM and that others have different values than those printed on the board as some of the caps list the values. Also...The Pots ran me almost 100 Bucks as he uses 2 Watt Pots for the SLO-100 and they come from Canada. I am not sure if my BOM will help you but I will provide it to you. I will also provide another schematic I was sent from Ampclones in the event your mainboard has the DC heater Mod for V1 and V2 as mine does. I have been able to create new layouts for the amp from the schematic and they differ greatly from the layout provided which is too large for me to send. I am going to give that a try and see if I can get it to work. If not I will post again. I think I am making some progress but I am concerned about the connections on the mainboard itself as I am not sure if all of them are labeled correctly. Difficult to trace and time consuming as I have to keep removing the board to check the traces and the PCB Tube sockets are in the way also. Good luck with your build. Hopefully he will send you the correct information so you can enjoy your build. I believe the information (especially the Layout I was sent) is from an older revision of this board.
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Re: SLO-100 Rev. 1.3
Since it is based on an SLO it should follow the basic circuit and studying the schem and layout from the slocloneforums and following how those are connected should help
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Re: SLO-100 Rev. 1.3
Thanks for the info. I will look them over.
Re: SLO-100 Rev. 1.3
Amazing. Identical to the schematic I was sent right down to the notes. Seems Ampclones design is exactly the same as the original SLO-100.
Re: SLO-100 Rev. 1.3
From what I understand from reading at Sloclone, the guys that made the schem there were kind of choked that Ampclones more or less published the Sloclone schem with their boards.
Anyway I have built a Sloclone 50 watt using Jed's boards and that schem and layout and it works great so I can vouch for it. Fired right up although it took some work to chase down some hum and grounding issues I had
If you carefully follow the traces on the Ampclone boards you should be able to match it up to the Sloclone schem or layout and see if you have any deviations. Might be a bitch but should get you there.
Anyway I have built a Sloclone 50 watt using Jed's boards and that schem and layout and it works great so I can vouch for it. Fired right up although it took some work to chase down some hum and grounding issues I had
If you carefully follow the traces on the Ampclone boards you should be able to match it up to the Sloclone schem or layout and see if you have any deviations. Might be a bitch but should get you there.
Re: SLO-100 Rev. 1.3
Ampclones sells some projects that were developed by other people on sloclone forum, and then many people comes back to sloclone for aftersale issues. Not so fair.
Re: SLO-100 Rev. 1.3
This is exactly what I have been doing. Takes a long time. Hope to have it sorted out shortly. Thanks.Lindz wrote:From what I understand from reading at Sloclone, the guys that made the schem there were kind of choked that Ampclones more or less published the Sloclone schem with their boards.
Anyway I have built a Sloclone 50 watt using Jed's boards and that schem and layout and it works great so I can vouch for it. Fired right up although it took some work to chase down some hum and grounding issues I had
If you carefully follow the traces on the Ampclone boards you should be able to match it up to the Sloclone schem or layout and see if you have any deviations. Might be a bitch but should get you there.
Re: SLO-100 Rev. 1.3
Didn't know that. Was searching on line for PCB's for my chassis but couldn't find any here in the US which is why I bought these boards. Got tired of using fiber boards for my builds. The eyelets are too small for the 5408 diodes and require adding additional eyelets. They also take up too much room in the chassis depending on what you are building. One amp I build required 8 (EIGHT) 100uf axial caps for the PSU. The caps were tremendous and the configuration required using a smaller (cut down) fiber board next to the main fiber board. Way too big. After I get this amp going I think I'm going to call it quits for awhile. Already built 3 amps (using Fiber Boards) that work just fine. This build has been a real pain in the garbanzo beans.roberto wrote:Ampclones sells some projects that were developed by other people on sloclone forum, and then many people comes back to sloclone for aftersale issues. Not so fair.
Re: SLO-100 Rev. 1.3
Yep, they really hate him over SLOclone
Re: SLO-100 Rev. 1.3
This post is to help those of you who are using the Ampclones.com SLO-100 Rev. 1.3 with the dual EQ. This board is no longer on the ampclones website as it may have been discontinued or in process to come out with a new version. I've built many SLO clones using the Turret and C3amps boards and this ampclones version has given me nothing but pure Hell and huge losses in Time, Money, Sleep, and a wife who's upset the amps are not working and so much wasted. I’ve reached out to other people on the forums having similar issues and most of them gave up and never finished the builds or switched to a different board. There is absolutely no support from Ampclones as they seem to only respond to email every couple of months and don’t participate in their own forum. The slocone Forum wont help as they will only support their boards and schematics from which ampclones stole it from.
First off, I've traced every section of this board and I can testify that there is no errors in its layout, just extra things not included on the original design so don’t waist any more time looking at this unless you just need to draw a mental reference. All the problems with this board is due to incorrect values and discrepancies between the ampclones provided schematics, notes, and xls part-list compared to the official sloclone schematic and layout.
Bias issues – There is no Bias range resistor. Depending on your power transformer bias voltage you will need to wire a resistor in series with your bias supply wire (shrink-wrapped) to provide the correct range. My PT has a 100v tap so I used a 39k to set the range.
DC Heater issue – R67 is listed as a 220k 1W for bias supply input but as stated above there is no Bias supply/range resistor on this board. R67 is actually part of the DC heater Mod and the correct value is 1ohm 3w. This error would have caused your pre-amp tubes 1 & 2 to not light up at all.
R69 is listed to be 1/3W to be interpreted as 1ohm 3w, This is incorrect as this is the Tone stack input or mid range slope resistor for the clean channel and this needs to be chosen by your flavor 39k-Marshall, 47k-Soldano, up-to 100k-Fender.
R68 also is listed to be 1/3W to be interpreted as 1ohm 3w. Based on the actual trace this is listed on the modified ampclones drawing to be a Input reference to LDR 5 & 6 to split to dual tone stack EQ sections. If this was needed the correct value should be 1M. Other wise you would be almost grounding out the signal and have no sound from the amp. Based on the original sloclone schematic OMIT this resistor and leave slot empty on board.
C41 is a 22nf coupling cap leading into R68 above. It is also listed as a 47nf on the part list for dual EQ not sure the reason for this mistake but Please OMIT this and run a JUMPER in the slot to pass the signal to the tone stack section.
C21 & C22 is labeled on the board to be 100nf. It may have been corrected on some boards but this is your PI Coupling cap and the correct value is 47nf 630v (600v+) Don't use Sozo Premium caps @ 400V for this for I had one fail.
R64 & R65 Switching Circuit issue !!!!! – Ampclones Dual-EQ notes say to change R64 listed as 47R to 15R and R65 listed as 33R also to 15R. I guess to compensate voltage for additional 3 LDR's not included on original SLO added to reduce bleed and Dual tone stack switching. Using a 6.3VAC tap do not make this change. Keep the original values because even though the voltage will be a little lower than whats shown on the Schematic, the circuit will still work OK!!!! If you have changed both to 15R as stated either your amp will change channels but have a very low volume almost to a bleed volume as some of the LDR's will block or ground the signal ----OR---- you will have good volume on only one channel such as the lead and almost Zero sound on the other. You may or may not have the same results on the FX loop out while troubleshooting to another amp as this will depend on which LDR's are still open or closed. This is caused because the voltage is to high feeding the LDR's and when you switch channels the voltage is not actually cut but reduced to the opposing channel paths thus turning off the LDR but if the voltage is to high the LDR will not close because the voltage is over the threshold to deactivate. This was my biggest head ache trying to figure out even to the point of swapping LDR's and mounting a few of them upside down/reversed as shown on the Original Sloclone schematic. After tracing the LDR circuit I found the routing was done correctly to allow all the LDR's to be mounted facing the same direction. …........(Note if you did solder and unsolder the LDR's multiple times it will be almost impossible to remount these directly to the board plus you will have a ugly mess and burnt board. Trick- take a few of your thinner leads cut from your other components and cut them 1/2” long and drop them down into the LDR mounting holes with heat from solder iron and make 4 equal solder studs. Test for connectivity to the next component down the line. Then cut your LDR leads short enough to wrap around each of your new mounting studs and solder and trim off excess.)
I hope this will help everyone. I only wished someone would have done this for me 3 weeks ago!!!
First off, I've traced every section of this board and I can testify that there is no errors in its layout, just extra things not included on the original design so don’t waist any more time looking at this unless you just need to draw a mental reference. All the problems with this board is due to incorrect values and discrepancies between the ampclones provided schematics, notes, and xls part-list compared to the official sloclone schematic and layout.
Bias issues – There is no Bias range resistor. Depending on your power transformer bias voltage you will need to wire a resistor in series with your bias supply wire (shrink-wrapped) to provide the correct range. My PT has a 100v tap so I used a 39k to set the range.
DC Heater issue – R67 is listed as a 220k 1W for bias supply input but as stated above there is no Bias supply/range resistor on this board. R67 is actually part of the DC heater Mod and the correct value is 1ohm 3w. This error would have caused your pre-amp tubes 1 & 2 to not light up at all.
R69 is listed to be 1/3W to be interpreted as 1ohm 3w, This is incorrect as this is the Tone stack input or mid range slope resistor for the clean channel and this needs to be chosen by your flavor 39k-Marshall, 47k-Soldano, up-to 100k-Fender.
R68 also is listed to be 1/3W to be interpreted as 1ohm 3w. Based on the actual trace this is listed on the modified ampclones drawing to be a Input reference to LDR 5 & 6 to split to dual tone stack EQ sections. If this was needed the correct value should be 1M. Other wise you would be almost grounding out the signal and have no sound from the amp. Based on the original sloclone schematic OMIT this resistor and leave slot empty on board.
C41 is a 22nf coupling cap leading into R68 above. It is also listed as a 47nf on the part list for dual EQ not sure the reason for this mistake but Please OMIT this and run a JUMPER in the slot to pass the signal to the tone stack section.
C21 & C22 is labeled on the board to be 100nf. It may have been corrected on some boards but this is your PI Coupling cap and the correct value is 47nf 630v (600v+) Don't use Sozo Premium caps @ 400V for this for I had one fail.
R64 & R65 Switching Circuit issue !!!!! – Ampclones Dual-EQ notes say to change R64 listed as 47R to 15R and R65 listed as 33R also to 15R. I guess to compensate voltage for additional 3 LDR's not included on original SLO added to reduce bleed and Dual tone stack switching. Using a 6.3VAC tap do not make this change. Keep the original values because even though the voltage will be a little lower than whats shown on the Schematic, the circuit will still work OK!!!! If you have changed both to 15R as stated either your amp will change channels but have a very low volume almost to a bleed volume as some of the LDR's will block or ground the signal ----OR---- you will have good volume on only one channel such as the lead and almost Zero sound on the other. You may or may not have the same results on the FX loop out while troubleshooting to another amp as this will depend on which LDR's are still open or closed. This is caused because the voltage is to high feeding the LDR's and when you switch channels the voltage is not actually cut but reduced to the opposing channel paths thus turning off the LDR but if the voltage is to high the LDR will not close because the voltage is over the threshold to deactivate. This was my biggest head ache trying to figure out even to the point of swapping LDR's and mounting a few of them upside down/reversed as shown on the Original Sloclone schematic. After tracing the LDR circuit I found the routing was done correctly to allow all the LDR's to be mounted facing the same direction. …........(Note if you did solder and unsolder the LDR's multiple times it will be almost impossible to remount these directly to the board plus you will have a ugly mess and burnt board. Trick- take a few of your thinner leads cut from your other components and cut them 1/2” long and drop them down into the LDR mounting holes with heat from solder iron and make 4 equal solder studs. Test for connectivity to the next component down the line. Then cut your LDR leads short enough to wrap around each of your new mounting studs and solder and trim off excess.)
I hope this will help everyone. I only wished someone would have done this for me 3 weeks ago!!!
Re: SLO-100 Rev. 1.3
This post is to help those of you who are using the Ampclones.com SLO-100 Rev. 1.3 with the dual EQ. This board is no longer on the ampclones website as it may have been discontinued or in process to come out with a new version. I've built many SLO clones using the Turret and C3amps boards and this ampclones version has given me nothing but pure Hell and huge losses in Time, Money, Sleep, and a wife who's upset the amps are not working and so much wasted. I’ve reached out to other people on the forums having similar issues and most of them gave up and never finished the builds or switched to a different board. There is absolutely no support from Ampclones as they seem to only respond to email every couple of months and don’t participate in their own forum. The slocone Forum wont help as they will only support their boards and schematics from which ampclones stole it from.
First off, I've traced every section of this board and I can testify that there is no errors in its layout, just extra things not included on the original design so don’t waist any more time looking at this unless you just need to draw a mental reference. All the problems with this board is due to incorrect values and discrepancies between the ampclones provided schematics, notes, and xls part-list compared to the official sloclone schematic and layout.
Bias issues – There is no Bias range resistor. Depending on your power transformer bias voltage you will need to wire a resistor in series with your bias supply wire (shrink-wrapped) to provide the correct range. My PT has a 100v tap so I used a 39k to set the range.
DC Heater issue – R67 is listed as a 220k 1W for bias supply input but as stated above there is no Bias supply/range resistor on this board. R67 is actually part of the DC heater Mod and the correct value is 1ohm 3w. This error would have caused your pre-amp tubes 1 & 2 to not light up at all.
R69 is listed to be 1/3W to be interpreted as 1ohm 3w, This is incorrect as this is the Tone stack input or mid range slope resistor for the clean channel and this needs to be chosen by your flavor 39k-Marshall, 47k-Soldano, up-to 100k-Fender.
R68 also is listed to be 1/3W to be interpreted as 1ohm 3w. Based on the actual trace this is listed on the modified ampclones drawing to be a Input reference to LDR 5 & 6 to split to dual tone stack EQ sections. If this was needed the correct value should be 1M. Other wise you would be almost grounding out the signal and have no sound from the amp. Based on the original sloclone schematic OMIT this resistor and leave slot empty on board.
C41 is a 22nf coupling cap leading into R68 above. It is also listed as a 47nf on the part list for dual EQ not sure the reason for this mistake but Please OMIT this and run a JUMPER in the slot to pass the signal to the tone stack section.
C21 & C22 is labeled on the board to be 100nf. It may have been corrected on some boards but this is your PI Coupling cap and the correct value is 47nf 630v (600v+) Don't use Sozo Premium caps @ 400V for this for I had one fail.
R64 & R65 Switching Circuit issue !!!!! – Ampclones Dual-EQ notes say to change R64 listed as 47R to 15R and R65 listed as 33R also to 15R. I guess to compensate voltage for additional 3 LDR's not included on original SLO added to reduce bleed and Dual tone stack switching. Using a 6.3VAC tap do not make this change. Keep the original values because even though the voltage will be a little lower than whats shown on the Schematic, the circuit will still work OK!!!! If you have changed both to 15R as stated either your amp will change channels but have a very low volume almost to a bleed volume as some of the LDR's will block or ground the signal ----OR---- you will have good volume on only one channel such as the lead and almost Zero sound on the other. You may or may not have the same results on the FX loop out while troubleshooting to another amp as this will depend on which LDR's are still open or closed. This is caused because the voltage is to high feeding the LDR's and when you switch channels the voltage is not actually cut but reduced to the opposing channel paths thus turning off the LDR but if the voltage is to high the LDR will not close because the voltage is over the threshold to deactivate. This was my biggest head ache trying to figure out even to the point of swapping LDR's and mounting a few of them upside down/reversed as shown on the Original Sloclone schematic. After tracing the LDR circuit I found the routing was done correctly to allow all the LDR's to be mounted facing the same direction. …........(Note if you did solder and unsolder the LDR's multiple times it will be almost impossible to remount these directly to the board plus you will have a ugly mess and burnt board. Trick- take a few of your thinner leads cut from your other components and cut them 1/2” long and drop them down into the LDR mounting holes with heat from solder iron and make 4 equal solder studs. Test for connectivity to the next component down the line. Then cut your LDR leads short enough to wrap around each of your new mounting studs and solder and trim off excess.)
I hope this will help everyone. I only wished someone would have done this for me 3 weeks ago!!!
First off, I've traced every section of this board and I can testify that there is no errors in its layout, just extra things not included on the original design so don’t waist any more time looking at this unless you just need to draw a mental reference. All the problems with this board is due to incorrect values and discrepancies between the ampclones provided schematics, notes, and xls part-list compared to the official sloclone schematic and layout.
Bias issues – There is no Bias range resistor. Depending on your power transformer bias voltage you will need to wire a resistor in series with your bias supply wire (shrink-wrapped) to provide the correct range. My PT has a 100v tap so I used a 39k to set the range.
DC Heater issue – R67 is listed as a 220k 1W for bias supply input but as stated above there is no Bias supply/range resistor on this board. R67 is actually part of the DC heater Mod and the correct value is 1ohm 3w. This error would have caused your pre-amp tubes 1 & 2 to not light up at all.
R69 is listed to be 1/3W to be interpreted as 1ohm 3w, This is incorrect as this is the Tone stack input or mid range slope resistor for the clean channel and this needs to be chosen by your flavor 39k-Marshall, 47k-Soldano, up-to 100k-Fender.
R68 also is listed to be 1/3W to be interpreted as 1ohm 3w. Based on the actual trace this is listed on the modified ampclones drawing to be a Input reference to LDR 5 & 6 to split to dual tone stack EQ sections. If this was needed the correct value should be 1M. Other wise you would be almost grounding out the signal and have no sound from the amp. Based on the original sloclone schematic OMIT this resistor and leave slot empty on board.
C41 is a 22nf coupling cap leading into R68 above. It is also listed as a 47nf on the part list for dual EQ not sure the reason for this mistake but Please OMIT this and run a JUMPER in the slot to pass the signal to the tone stack section.
C21 & C22 is labeled on the board to be 100nf. It may have been corrected on some boards but this is your PI Coupling cap and the correct value is 47nf 630v (600v+) Don't use Sozo Premium caps @ 400V for this for I had one fail.
R64 & R65 Switching Circuit issue !!!!! – Ampclones Dual-EQ notes say to change R64 listed as 47R to 15R and R65 listed as 33R also to 15R. I guess to compensate voltage for additional 3 LDR's not included on original SLO added to reduce bleed and Dual tone stack switching. Using a 6.3VAC tap do not make this change. Keep the original values because even though the voltage will be a little lower than whats shown on the Schematic, the circuit will still work OK!!!! If you have changed both to 15R as stated either your amp will change channels but have a very low volume almost to a bleed volume as some of the LDR's will block or ground the signal ----OR---- you will have good volume on only one channel such as the lead and almost Zero sound on the other. You may or may not have the same results on the FX loop out while troubleshooting to another amp as this will depend on which LDR's are still open or closed. This is caused because the voltage is to high feeding the LDR's and when you switch channels the voltage is not actually cut but reduced to the opposing channel paths thus turning off the LDR but if the voltage is to high the LDR will not close because the voltage is over the threshold to deactivate. This was my biggest head ache trying to figure out even to the point of swapping LDR's and mounting a few of them upside down/reversed as shown on the Original Sloclone schematic. After tracing the LDR circuit I found the routing was done correctly to allow all the LDR's to be mounted facing the same direction. …........(Note if you did solder and unsolder the LDR's multiple times it will be almost impossible to remount these directly to the board plus you will have a ugly mess and burnt board. Trick- take a few of your thinner leads cut from your other components and cut them 1/2” long and drop them down into the LDR mounting holes with heat from solder iron and make 4 equal solder studs. Test for connectivity to the next component down the line. Then cut your LDR leads short enough to wrap around each of your new mounting studs and solder and trim off excess.)
I hope this will help everyone. I only wished someone would have done this for me 3 weeks ago!!!