LED question

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mrn1ngstr
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LED question

Post by mrn1ngstr »

I want to use an LED for a pilot lamp running off of the 6.3v heater supply. My question is should I place a diode parallel with the LED and those two in series with the resistor or all three in series with each other?
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xtian
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Re: LED question

Post by xtian »

[The LED is a diode, you don't need an extra one. Put the resistor in series with the LED.] - Ian is smarter than me. Thanks, Ian!
Last edited by xtian on Wed Apr 02, 2014 11:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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ToneMerc
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Re: LED question

Post by ToneMerc »

Both diode and resistor are in series with the repective anode or cathode side of the LED.

Filament wire>330-470R>LED cathode
Filament wire>Diode(Anode) >LED Anode , the longer lead

TM
mrn1ngstr
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Re: LED question

Post by mrn1ngstr »

I get that but Ive been reading and quite a few people suggest using an additional diode in order to keep from damaging the led and to help cut back on flicker from 60hz. Ive seen it two ways- Paralles, but opposite polarity, with the LED and both in series with a current limiting resistor and the other way is all three in series. It may not need it at all like you say. I just want to see what the general consensus is.
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gingertube
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Re: LED question

Post by gingertube »

YES always use an extra diode in series with the LED when connecting across an AC supply.

WHY? Because LEDs have a really low reverse voltage rating. I don't recall the exact value but it is like 5 or 6 volts.

You put a power diode in series with the LED such that that added power diode handles the reverse voltage on the half cycle where the LED is not conducting.

Depending upon the size of the current limiting series resistor, the LED may not expire immediately without the added power diode but lifetime will definitely be compromised.

Don't tempt fate (the unkind b.....d), put that protection diode in.

Cheers,
Ian
mrn1ngstr
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Re: LED question

Post by mrn1ngstr »

Ok so it sounds like all three in series is what Im hearing. Word.
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Cantplay
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Re: LED question

Post by Cantplay »

How about a cap across the LED to keep it from flickering?

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gingertube
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Re: LED question

Post by gingertube »

You can't see a 50/60Hz flicker. I would'nt bother.
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renshen1957
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Re: LED question

Post by renshen1957 »

mrn1ngstr wrote:I want to use an LED for a pilot lamp running off of the 6.3v heater supply. My question is should I place a diode parallel with the LED and those two in series with the resistor or all three in series with each other?
hi

Jameco.com used to carry a LED that could be used on a fender style jewel pilot light, but as it was about $10.95, I was too much of a cheapscape to buy one although in theory it should last 100 years

Best regards

Steve
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Ken Moon
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Re: LED question

Post by Ken Moon »

LED replacements for Fender-style pilot lights are much cheaper now, and come in a variety of colors, brightness, and viewing angles. You can have even more fun by pairing different color leds with different color jewels (whee!)

The typical fender-style pilot lamp bulb is a Type 47 10mm T3-1/4 BA9S base miniature bayonet lamp.

I've had great success with LEDs from this source:

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/ba9s ... ,100,3882:

I actually prefer to use the 120V leds in a heavy duty Fender-style socket that can handle the voltage. It greatly simplifies wiring as opposed to using the heaters. Here's one source for the socket:

http://www.tubesandmore.com/products/P-L110
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renshen1957
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Re: LED question

Post by renshen1957 »

Ken Moon wrote:LED replacements for Fender-style pilot lights are much cheaper now, and come in a variety of colors, brightness, and viewing angles. You can have even more fun by pairing different color leds with different color jewels (whee!)

The typical fender-style pilot lamp bulb is a Type 47 10mm T3-1/4 BA9S base miniature bayonet lamp.

I've had great success with LEDs from this source:

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/ba9s ... ,100,3882:

I actually prefer to use the 120V leds in a heavy duty Fender-style socket that can handle the voltage. It greatly simplifies wiring as opposed to using the heaters. Here's one source for the socket:

http://www.tubesandmore.com/products/P-L110
Hi,

I follow the lead of several other vintage manufacturers and use neon light bulbs across the mains voltage. These last forever compared to the incandescent bulbs and one doesn't need a Fender jewel assembly taking up real estate on the panel.

Best regards

Steve
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Structo
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Re: LED question

Post by Structo »

I think I mentioned this before but when I was building my D clone I used these for the pilot light.

Look pretty slick and cheap at $2.50

Radio Shack

[img:345:235]http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_ ... 79w345.jpg[/img]
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renshen1957
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Re: LED question

Post by renshen1957 »

Structo wrote:I think I mentioned this before but when I was building my D clone I used these for the pilot light.

Look pretty slick and cheap at $2.50

Radio Shack

[img:345:235]http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_ ... 79w345.jpg[/img]
Hi,

Radio Shack carries these lights, at least the RS stores that still carry some components, and not overly focused on cellphone/iPhone sales. The one nearest to me, walking, distance only carries parts in one or two at most. I drive ten minutes and they are stocked with transformers and more mini switches (cheaper than electronics store on these switches).

Best regards,

Steve
Every Tom, Dick, and Harry is named Steve
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