Exactly..Although it's already a common problem in Fender amps that use a .1uf coupler 220k to go into grid clamp and suffer from the deraded farting out effect.. things that would help would be to lower the 220k to a 100k bias feed or go down to a .047 coupler or better yet .02..All this helps speed up bias recovery as well as raise the knee..If you wanted to completely eliminate the grid clamp effect all together you could run class AB2 (CF drive) but I am getting way off the topic now so i'll go Bye Bye!!Firestorm wrote:As long as you're dealing with Fenderish values, it is probably not going to make an audible difference. If you move the grid leaks and the grid stops right to the tube, signal attenuation will be less than one percent and the grid stop will still be in series with the signal so it will still work with the tube's capacitance to block high frequency garbage. The differences come if you overdrive the tube to the point of grid conduction. The time it takes to charge the coupling cap (making it a clamp) will be different and the time it takes for the cap to bleed off its voltage (recover) will be different, as Tony said. But if we're talking about 1K5 and a stock Fender, I'll bet it isn't noticeable.
But again, why bother?
Why redesign the wheel?
Tony
