Solder Order

[gearhead]

How do you all solder up connector wires on an amp that has boards (vs pure PTP)?

Solder components to board(s) and install. Then solder on connector wires from the board(s) to pots, sockets, etc.

or

Solder components and connector wires (extra long) to board and install. Then cut connector wires to length and solder to pots, sockets, etc.

Pros/Cons?

[mlp-mx6]

I've done both, and had both work well.

My preference, however, is for the 2nd approach. I find this to be neater looking by far. I often solder the wires from underneath. This look is neater still.

I also go back and forth regarding eyelets and turrets. My overall preference is for turrets - and one component per pair, please! (grin) The small 1504 turrets really don't work well with multiple components in the hole. MUCH harder to tweak that way. Another benefit to this one-per approach - it forces you to not pack components too tightly, which can (when packed too tightly) result in oscillations and/or unintended "feedback" that can be hard to diagnose.

All this is JUST my opinion...

[gearhead]

"Another benefit to this one-per approach - it forces you to not pack components too tightly, which can (when packed too tightly) result in oscillations and/or unintended "feedback" that can be hard to diagnose.

You mean the components themselves, or the leads packed together? I can see if you stack components up, you've got (current movement) induced magenetic field from one component translates to induced current on adjacent component. That what you mean?

[mlp-mx6]

That is exactly what I meant.

In his book Dave Funk mentioned intentionally inducing some of those effects with a PCB board, which is basically impossible to consistently do via turret or eyelet methods.[/i]

[Ed de Jager]

I am in favour ofthe 2nd method too.


Ed

[lastwinj]

i usually end up using the first way.

germ

[Bob-I]

I usually hold the board in it's chassis location and clip the wires just a tad long, then solder them in at the time of inserting the components.

One important part of this is to use a color code on the wires. I like to use...

red = plates
yellow = cathodes
green = grids
blue = screens
white = heaters

I used to use turrets but lately I've been using eyelets. With turrets you can place them close together and use more of them, but that gets to be a pain. Eyelets, and fewer of them, with careful positioning and lead bending are fine. I've actually had almost 0 oscillation issues in the last 3-4 builds, including a very complex Dumble with reverb and buffered effects loop.

[David Root]

Amen on the second approach too, with the off-board connections from underneath. It looks best. Just happens to be the way Mr. Royce did them for Hiwatt, all shipshape and military style.

Amen also on double turrets. I don't build my own boards, I buy them from turretboards.com, life is too short etc., and his are the best IMHO.

I do put cathode bypass caps directly across the resistor, but I normally use Black Gate non-polar bypass caps which are tiny itty-bitty things.

If you ever have to lift the board, it helps if you make the off-board connectors longer than necessary so you can lift it without desoldering any connections. I haven't actually done that yet because it makes plate wires in particular longer than they need to be, and not as clean looking, but I have been tempted.

[gearhead]

Amen on the second approach too, with the off-board connections from underneath. It looks best. Just happens to be the way Mr. Royce did them for Hiwatt, all shipshape and military style.

I assume you mean Mr. Joyce? I've got one of his amps, and the internal wiring is like a piece of art.

Edited to add pic: Harry Joyce Custom 50, ser 041 (sold).
[img:533:400]http://www.hypernova.net/images/HJC_50_small.jpg[/img]
Still have my HJ 30 watter.

[David Root]

Sorry, I was thinking Royce, as in Rolls-Royce, as he was English! Duh! His work is something to aim for, ain't it!