CAIG MCL aka DeoxIT Fader Lube Results

[Leo_Gnardo]

Yes, this thread reminded me to get F5 FaderLube, thanks!
I was using the gold and probably wrecked a few pots by using the D5 before that.
The F5 came in yesterday.

I've occasionally grabbed the D5 by mistake but I doubt damaged any pots. Regardless of what Caig's SALESMEN say, I avoid Caig "Gold" except in cases of gold-to-gold connections that are meant to be made and kept stuck together for a long time, like card edge connectors and multipin connectors. And there, as Caig used to remind us (but doesn't anymore) "The less you use the better it works." So schmearing anything with Caig gold is out of the question, regardless of what any salesman or other technician may recommend. The lightest application, followed by a solvent wash that removes 99% of it works successfully for me. Again, only on gold-to-gold connections. I've had to fix too many places where Caig "Gold" has been misused.

[sepulchre]

I had been misled to think D5 was the right stuff for pots. I put it on my vintage synth (Roland Juno 60 - mostly slider pots). It did seem better for awhile but has gotten again. Hope I didn't hurt it. I just ordered some F5 and hope that will help, or at least stop any further damage.

[Leo_Gnardo]

I had been misled to think D5 was the right stuff for pots. I put it on my vintage synth (Roland Juno 60 - mostly slider pots). It did seem better for awhile but has gotten again. Hope I didn't hurt it. I just ordered some F5 and hope that will help, or at least stop any further damage.

I doubt the D5 hurt. That's a very old keyboard what 30 years? I'm not sure any spray will really help BUT first I'd clean pots especially sliders with a non-lubricant solvent. You may have to pry them open & clean out dust & debris with solvent on a cotton swab. If the keyboard was used a lot, might even have to replace them. No cleaner can repair a carbon track that's simply worn out. Good luck!

Once I had a Juno 60 in for "just clean out the pots". Had to be 25 years ago. Looking inside, someone had spilled a milk shake on the instrument and the whole circuit board was coated with moldy sticky goo. Cleaning the pots wasn't going to help much. Hope you never have to deal with anything like that. I brought it back to the store and declared "I give up."

[cbass]

I guess it doesn't apply to sliders but with regular pots sometimes you can bend the wiper to contact new carbon If its worn out

[Leo_Gnardo]

I guess it doesn't apply to sliders but with regular pots sometimes you can bend the wiper to contact new carbon If its worn out

That's what I'd call a real field fix - but I've done it! Also a very gentle wipe with a match-size strip of 2000 grit polishing paper on the track of an old Clarostat pot inside a Sho-Bud volume pedal. That did the trick. Gotta keep our pedal steel players going. Finished 'er with a drop of F5 and good as new.

Like the new avatar - is that you cbass?

[sepulchre]

Thanks guys. I got it new all those years ago and it has been treated with serious TLC the whole time. I've been inside it to do a couple of mods but that was a long time ago. I can get a volume pot for it but the sliders, well I haven't found any yet. The keyboard itself has some issues: now and then a couple of the note retrigger when you let off the key. But I can deal with that, I guess. Getting a new keyboard is out of the question and, though it has a pre-midi controller connection, it won't do midi. It's possible to get that old converter but it's strictly for note on/note off.

Anyway, I'll see if I can get into it and then how much damage opening the sliders would do. If it looks like it will cause too much I'll just shoot them with the F5. Really, their main problem is that they're sticky feeling. They seem to work okay.

Thanks again!