TWIST LOCK CAP SOLDER HELP!

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selloutrr
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Joined: Sun Oct 14, 2007 2:44 am
Location: Southern California

Re: TWIST LOCK CAP SOLDER HELP!

Post by selloutrr »

I've never had good luck with the pistols, they burn up. even when they do work it takes longer to heat up the metal then I feel comfortable.
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passfan
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Re: TWIST LOCK CAP SOLDER HELP!

Post by passfan »

selloutrr wrote:you will have better luck as well if you snip the can lug from the body as the body absorbes the heat. then you should be able to heat the blob with two irons and flick it down the hole the cap set in.
I'm usually salvaging the caps to reform and reuse so I try to keep as many lugs as possible. If I were tossing it it wouldn't be a problem.
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billyz
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Re: TWIST LOCK CAP SOLDER HELP!

Post by billyz »

I use an 80w weller iron with a chisel tip. Works great on those old chassis. Install a new ground, no problem. check out the ones they use for stained glass work, pretty cheap and handy.
sixstringer
Posts: 186
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Location: SoCal

Re: TWIST LOCK CAP SOLDER HELP!

Post by sixstringer »

A 60 watt iron will do it, even a 40 most of the time, or you could just clip the leads on the old cap, leaving enough to join to the new cap. Of course, I would never do that :), but I've seen it done. It seems to work well.
TheGimp
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Re: TWIST LOCK CAP SOLDER HELP!

Post by TheGimp »

Usually the can's just jump off the chassis when I get this out and wave it at them.

You can occasionally find them at garage sales for as little as $5. I passed up one this spring that I should have gotten as it was slightly smaller and would have been easier to work with. This thing is heavy. At 300W it is probably a bit excessive, but solder just flows when you hit it with this and it takes very little time to remove. So the surrounding metal does not heat up as much.
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