Hello all,
I know this has been knocked around for a while, but I'd like to see if I could collect the overall wisdom of "Standby Switching" into one nice thread.
I am getting ready to wire up my ODS build and as I prep to wire the standby operation, am I better off to:
1) Wire the rectified B+ through a switch
or
2) Wire the Rectified and filtered DC B+ through a switch
or
3) Wire the center tap on the B+ through a switch?
or
4) Something I haven't mentioned here.
I'm always queasy about wiring the B+ through a switch because I've never found a switch rated above 277 volts AC... yet it seems to be standard and accepted procedure.
Any great piece of wisdom that I am missing here?
Thanks,
rj
ODS Build - Best method for "standby" switching
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ODS Build - Best method for "standby" switching
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Re: ODS Build - Best method for "standby" switching
I choose:
1) Wire the rectified B+ through a switch.
You want to be sure the bias voltage is present before the standby is flipped to play.
1) Wire the rectified B+ through a switch.
You want to be sure the bias voltage is present before the standby is flipped to play.
Re: ODS Build - Best method for "standby" switching
Some prefer putting the switch after the first main filter in a tube rectified amp, as it allows the filter to charge as the rectifier comes up to temp, reducing the stress on the recto tube.
With solid state rectification, I don't think it makes a difference, so with SS put the switch on B+ after the diodes.
As for switches, they may not be rated for the high volts, but the current is pretty small. For some builds I use Leviton small toggles I get at Lowes, and besides the fact that I think their black bodies and toggle bats look cool, they are rated for something like 12 Amps, way more than the Carlings we use most of the time.
However, even the best switches will wear and start to arc on B+ after awhile, like 20 years or so.
With solid state rectification, I don't think it makes a difference, so with SS put the switch on B+ after the diodes.
As for switches, they may not be rated for the high volts, but the current is pretty small. For some builds I use Leviton small toggles I get at Lowes, and besides the fact that I think their black bodies and toggle bats look cool, they are rated for something like 12 Amps, way more than the Carlings we use most of the time.
However, even the best switches will wear and start to arc on B+ after awhile, like 20 years or so.
Rich Gordon
www.myspace.com/bigboyamplifiers
"The takers get the honey, the givers get the blues." --Robin Trower
www.myspace.com/bigboyamplifiers
"The takers get the honey, the givers get the blues." --Robin Trower