DLite Build Almost Complete
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
DLite Build Almost Complete
2 Questions:
1. The capacitor on the presence pot... BOM and Schematic refer to electrolytic 1 uF/50 V. Photos of builds and layout show what appears to be a small film cap. Which is correct?
2. I'm using a Fender replacement power transformer from tubesandmore.com (P-TF22798). This transformer has an orange ground wire. I presume I need to "ground" this wire to the chassis, but I'm not sure which lug. I was going to ground it to the lug where the center taps for the heaters is grounded. Any recommendations?
I've attached a gut shot and a wiring diagram for the transformer.
I will post more detailed photos when it's complete.
Any help would be greatly appreaciated.
Thanks,
Steve
1. The capacitor on the presence pot... BOM and Schematic refer to electrolytic 1 uF/50 V. Photos of builds and layout show what appears to be a small film cap. Which is correct?
2. I'm using a Fender replacement power transformer from tubesandmore.com (P-TF22798). This transformer has an orange ground wire. I presume I need to "ground" this wire to the chassis, but I'm not sure which lug. I was going to ground it to the lug where the center taps for the heaters is grounded. Any recommendations?
I've attached a gut shot and a wiring diagram for the transformer.
I will post more detailed photos when it's complete.
Any help would be greatly appreaciated.
Thanks,
Steve
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Re: DLite Build Almost Complete
1. The type of that capacitor is not as important as the value. It is likely that the value will be closer to stated with a film cap. Electrolytics usually have a VERY broad tolerance.
2. This orange wire is the shield for the xfmr. Ground it where you said and you'll be fine.
2. This orange wire is the shield for the xfmr. Ground it where you said and you'll be fine.
Wife: How many amps do you need?
Me: Just one more...
Me: Just one more...
Re: DLite Build Almost Complete
It's a tantalum cap. Electrolytic or tantalum are fine. A 1uF film cap would be huge!
Re: DLite Build Almost Complete
I have some 1uf 250V films that are not all that big.
Wife: How many amps do you need?
Me: Just one more...
Me: Just one more...
Tantulum Cap
I thought maybe it was a tantulum...
How this as a substitute?
Kemet Conformally Coated Radial Ceramic Capacitors
C330 1uF 50volts X7R +/- 5%
BTW: Thanks for the quick replies.
Steve
How this as a substitute?
Kemet Conformally Coated Radial Ceramic Capacitors
C330 1uF 50volts X7R +/- 5%
BTW: Thanks for the quick replies.
Steve
Re: DLite Build Almost Complete
Steve,
If I were you, I would change a number of things in your build to establish an accurate baseline to tweak from.
1) Use the dropping string Dumble used. The DLite was created as a hybrid using lower B+ for 6V6. What you have has never been seen in a real Dumble. Why use it?? Change the 220K FET simulator to 150K while you are at it. That is what the real FET loads at. Use a 3K dropping to PI cap, not the 1K you have. Assuming you are using 6L6 tubes. Then use 470ohm on screens as well
2) Use the PI plate resistor sizes Dumble used. With trimmer. See #1 for reason. 110K/120K w/5K or 10K trimmer is good.
3) Your shielded cable useage is wrong. Dumble used it on both OD controls and none on the master. There is capacitance that can effect the highs. By doing it the authentic way, you establish the baseline as I earlier mentioned. What kind is it? Make sure it measures less than 30pf/foot
4) If you use the .047uf midcap and no cap on the bass pot, I'd stick with the 100K slope resistor. Dumble pretty much used the old way as you have it, or the Skyline which is 150K slope and .01uf midcap w/250ka midpot.
5) Wire the presence the Dumble way, and not the Dlite way which is wrong. Search in files section for the right layout.
Not dissing DLite here, but the layout is for a different amp than what you are making and what they are currently making
If I were you, I would change a number of things in your build to establish an accurate baseline to tweak from.
1) Use the dropping string Dumble used. The DLite was created as a hybrid using lower B+ for 6V6. What you have has never been seen in a real Dumble. Why use it?? Change the 220K FET simulator to 150K while you are at it. That is what the real FET loads at. Use a 3K dropping to PI cap, not the 1K you have. Assuming you are using 6L6 tubes. Then use 470ohm on screens as well
2) Use the PI plate resistor sizes Dumble used. With trimmer. See #1 for reason. 110K/120K w/5K or 10K trimmer is good.
3) Your shielded cable useage is wrong. Dumble used it on both OD controls and none on the master. There is capacitance that can effect the highs. By doing it the authentic way, you establish the baseline as I earlier mentioned. What kind is it? Make sure it measures less than 30pf/foot
4) If you use the .047uf midcap and no cap on the bass pot, I'd stick with the 100K slope resistor. Dumble pretty much used the old way as you have it, or the Skyline which is 150K slope and .01uf midcap w/250ka midpot.
5) Wire the presence the Dumble way, and not the Dlite way which is wrong. Search in files section for the right layout.
Not dissing DLite here, but the layout is for a different amp than what you are making and what they are currently making
Re: DLite Build Almost Complete
Once again - I agree with dogears. I just finished a D'Lite for a friend and used the supply below(I believe it echoes what Scott is saying). Even with the same vibrolux type iron I used in my original kit D'Lite and 6V6 tubes, the resultant amp was more vibrant and appeared louder. I damned near kept the latest build and sent him my old one. Don't misunderstand - I LOVE THE D'LITE!!! I just like a "tweaked " one more. P.S. Very tidy looking build!! Are the shielded cable runs exposed shield on the outside?
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Dogear's Comments
Dogears,
I'm a little confused. I am trying to build a "D'Lite 22" following a layout posted on Brown Note's forum:
(D-Lite_Heater_and_Grounding_Layout.jgp).
To that point I believe I've followed the layout exactly as posted.
I believe the PT I chose correctly matches the specs of the D'lite PT.
1. So I don't think I need to change the dropping string as yet.
2, 4, & 5. See initial remarks.
3. Sheilded cable usage follows D'Lite layout exactly, I believe.
My apologies if this was the wrong forum to post this request. I probably should have posted on BrownNote's. No hard feelings either way.
Sincerely,
Steve
I'm a little confused. I am trying to build a "D'Lite 22" following a layout posted on Brown Note's forum:
(D-Lite_Heater_and_Grounding_Layout.jgp).
To that point I believe I've followed the layout exactly as posted.
I believe the PT I chose correctly matches the specs of the D'lite PT.
1. So I don't think I need to change the dropping string as yet.
2, 4, & 5. See initial remarks.
3. Sheilded cable usage follows D'Lite layout exactly, I believe.
My apologies if this was the wrong forum to post this request. I probably should have posted on BrownNote's. No hard feelings either way.
Sincerely,
Steve
Re: DLite Build Almost Complete
Why would there be hard feelings? I stand by my suggestions, regardless of tubeage. But you are correct, this is a "Dumble" forum and my suggestions are to correct inaccuracies in your build. As Stelligan points out, they can certainly make things better and in my experience with a number of DLite owners do make things better. Do you want a Dumble clone, or a clone of a sort of clone that was originally designed with no comparative point of reference (that in fact has been redesigned with my very suggestions)?
Re: DLite Build Almost Complete
Steve,
Believe me. I have built a D'Lite from the BrownNote kit - and one from scratch using the above power supply. Mucho difference in the outcome for the better. And if you ever decide to go 6L6 for output tubes - even more better. I just got done A/Bing them side to side and did not want to send the newest one away. Whatever you decide upon, you will not be disappointed. A very good sounding design.
Cheers!
Dave
Believe me. I have built a D'Lite from the BrownNote kit - and one from scratch using the above power supply. Mucho difference in the outcome for the better. And if you ever decide to go 6L6 for output tubes - even more better. I just got done A/Bing them side to side and did not want to send the newest one away. Whatever you decide upon, you will not be disappointed. A very good sounding design.
Cheers!
Dave
Regarding Sheilded Cable
No the shielding is not exposed. It has clear insulation.
It's 22 ga. stranded core wire with braided shielding. It was purchased for an electric guitar build, but I ended up not needing because I used EMG's. Anyway's I thought I'd use it in this build an listen to how it sounded.
Okay... Now after reading the Stelligan's post I understand a little better.
I think I'll stick with the D-Lite 22 (6V6's) build as my baseline and tweak from there, but will definitely keep these changes in mind if I'm not happy with the tone.
Steve
It's 22 ga. stranded core wire with braided shielding. It was purchased for an electric guitar build, but I ended up not needing because I used EMG's. Anyway's I thought I'd use it in this build an listen to how it sounded.
Okay... Now after reading the Stelligan's post I understand a little better.
I think I'll stick with the D-Lite 22 (6V6's) build as my baseline and tweak from there, but will definitely keep these changes in mind if I'm not happy with the tone.
Steve
Power Supply Layout
Stelligan,
Can you post the rest of that layout (not just the power supply) so I can get a better picture of the other changes mentioned? Or direct me to a link?
Dogears,
Thanks so much for the corrections. I 'think' the values you suggested applied if I were using 6L6's. Do they still apply using 6V6's?
Sincerely,
Steve
Can you post the rest of that layout (not just the power supply) so I can get a better picture of the other changes mentioned? Or direct me to a link?
Dogears,
Thanks so much for the corrections. I 'think' the values you suggested applied if I were using 6L6's. Do they still apply using 6V6's?
Sincerely,
Steve
Re: DLite Build Almost Complete
Steve,
The rest of that particular layout is for an HRM amp and wouldn't be of much use. On the D'Lite I just completed it followed the BrownNote layout almost exactly except for the section shown and one resistor value. The 6k2 going to the impedance selector was changed to 4k7. Hope this helps. The improvement is DRAMATIC...... even with 6V6.
The rest of that particular layout is for an HRM amp and wouldn't be of much use. On the D'Lite I just completed it followed the BrownNote layout almost exactly except for the section shown and one resistor value. The 6k2 going to the impedance selector was changed to 4k7. Hope this helps. The improvement is DRAMATIC...... even with 6V6.
Re: DLite Build Almost Complete
Stelligan,
Just wondering. Did you compare voltages ?
Just wondering. Did you compare voltages ?
Re: DLite Build Almost Complete
You know, I read stuff like this and I just feel dumb as a post. I can make out a fair amount of what is said, and I certainly respect the opinion of my dog's ears.dogears wrote:Steve,
If I were you, I would change a number of things in your build to establish an accurate baseline to tweak from.
1) Use the dropping string Dumble used. The DLite was created as a hybrid using lower B+ for 6V6. What you have has never been seen in a real Dumble. Why use it?? Change the 220K FET simulator to 150K while you are at it. That is what the real FET loads at. Use a 3K dropping to PI cap, not the 1K you have. Assuming you are using 6L6 tubes. Then use 470ohm on screens as well
2) Use the PI plate resistor sizes Dumble used. With trimmer. See #1 for reason. 110K/120K w/5K or 10K trimmer is good.
3) Your shielded cable useage is wrong. Dumble used it on both OD controls and none on the master. There is capacitance that can effect the highs. By doing it the authentic way, you establish the baseline as I earlier mentioned. What kind is it? Make sure it measures less than 30pf/foot
4) If you use the .047uf midcap and no cap on the bass pot, I'd stick with the 100K slope resistor. Dumble pretty much used the old way as you have it, or the Skyline which is 150K slope and .01uf midcap w/250ka midpot.
5) Wire the presence the Dumble way, and not the Dlite way which is wrong. Search in files section for the right layout.
Not dissing DLite here, but the layout is for a different amp than what you are making and what they are currently making
Is there a locale for relative ignoramii such as I to find this kind of basic terminology and how it relates to a schematic?
-g