Has anyone ever attempted to do a control panel using Letraset dry-transfer letters?
I always wondered if that's what HAD used for some of his?
[img:900:614]http://3v6x691yvn532gp2411ezrib.wpengin ... _fg03a.jpg[/img]
Dry-transfer lettering for faceplate?
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
Re: Dry-transfer lettering for faceplate?
I used it on one of my dumblelators. Looks great.
But you have to use a thin layer of blanc spray paint afterwards to prevent wear on the letraset. And repeat at least 3 times.
But you have to use a thin layer of blanc spray paint afterwards to prevent wear on the letraset. And repeat at least 3 times.
Re: Dry-transfer lettering for faceplate?
I'd try them if they'd make a sheet from a font you upload.
Here is an example of the Amplify font that I like to use on British-style faceplates:
(Of course, you should NEVER use a fake Marshall logo, but this is just to show the font.)
[img:988:478]http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t346 ... 20Font.jpg[/img]
Here is an example of the Amplify font that I like to use on British-style faceplates:
(Of course, you should NEVER use a fake Marshall logo, but this is just to show the font.)
[img:988:478]http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t346 ... 20Font.jpg[/img]
Re: Dry-transfer lettering for faceplate?
Well, I ordered a couple of sheets on the Bay (HELV 72 pt and 36 pt).
I'll probably try them on a metallic silver painted chassis.
I'll post when I get some results to report on.
I'll probably try them on a metallic silver painted chassis.
I'll post when I get some results to report on.
Re: Dry-transfer lettering for faceplate?
I have use some called Letraset about 10 years ago.
It was for a JTM45 I sprayed thin plastic sheet gold then used the dry transfer lettering. Followed by a clear coat of varnish and then put clear acrylic sheet over the top.
The biggest problem is getting the letters in a straight line, I used masking tape as a straight edge to work to then peeled it off once the lettering was in place.
It was for a JTM45 I sprayed thin plastic sheet gold then used the dry transfer lettering. Followed by a clear coat of varnish and then put clear acrylic sheet over the top.
The biggest problem is getting the letters in a straight line, I used masking tape as a straight edge to work to then peeled it off once the lettering was in place.
Re: Dry-transfer lettering for faceplate?
Those are kind of hard to find anymore.
The letters do need a clear coat so they can't be rubbed off.
It's really hard to get the letters straight and level.
I got some years ago from my dad when he worked for the telephone company.
Also if the decals are very old they don't work very good.
The letters do need a clear coat so they can't be rubbed off.
It's really hard to get the letters straight and level.
I got some years ago from my dad when he worked for the telephone company.
Also if the decals are very old they don't work very good.
Tom
Don't let that smoke out!
Don't let that smoke out!