If i made an overdrive special chassis

stretch2011 · Post by **stretch2011** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 2:42 pm

Would you guys want it with cage nut mounting holes on the side lips like in V1. Or Cage nut mounting holes on the top of the chassis so that there are no lips on the chassis like in V2. There is a top and bottom pdf of both versions.

EDIT: V3 is with lips on long side that are .625" long (.5" past the inside of the box). With the mounting holes on 1 1/8" centers

ayan · Post by **ayan** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 3:34 pm

I am confused by your drawing, since the drawings corresponding to V2 do not show any lips at all, unless I am missing something. If I were to get one, I would want the mounting to happen at the front and back lips. Side lips make building the amp unnecessarily more complicated, IMNSHO -- I built about 6 amps that way. Cage nuts work, but weld nuts, as used by HAD himself, would be preferable to me.

Thanks,

Gil

stretch2011 wrote:Would you guys want it with cage nut mounting holes on the side lips like in V1. Or Cage nut mounting holes on the top of the chassis so that there are no lips on the chassis like in V2. There is a top and bottom pdf of both versions.

Lastly would you want just a normal O hole for a nut and bolt IF you wanted the lipless chassis with mounting holes on the top of the chassis. No PDF for this one. (hence V3)

John_P_WI · Post by **John_P_WI** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 3:38 pm

I would suggest not using cage nuts on the tube side of the chassis as shown in the 124 v2 image. Dumble builds use the side walls for mounting smaller boards. The cab screws / cage nuts could interfere with side mounted boards.

stretch2011 · Post by **stretch2011** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 7:08 pm

Alright! Thanks guys! I'll redraw it up with lips along the long side. I guess the options should be lips on the long side, or no lips at all.

stretch2011 · Post by **stretch2011** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 7:28 pm

So what kind of weld nuts are best? Can't really weld steel nuts to an aluminum chassis.

ToneMerc · Post by **ToneMerc** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 7:54 pm

stretch2011 wrote:So what kind of weld nuts are best? Can't really weld steel nuts to an aluminum chassis.

You could use a t nut or aircraft nut plate and anchor it via screw or rivet.

TM

John_P_WI · Post by **John_P_WI** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 7:58 pm

PEM work well if installed properly. Just don't use a stainless PEM with a stainless machine screw....

Charlie Wilson · Post by **Charlie Wilson** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 8:16 pm

Hello, it looks like from your renderings that you want to use a single sheet and bend it rather than using side panels. Therefore I think having the lip on the long sides is the best solution. Just know with Perm nuts that steel is not intended to mate with aluminum. I know everybody does it but the aluminum eventually oxidizes and those things can break free. The CE Pedals chassis guys have found this out and it has happened to at least one real Dumble that I know about(#94). The most bullet proof solution I think is how Dumble did it with #124.
CW

ayan · Post by **ayan** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 8:44 pm

Yes, weld nuts:

http://www.fastenersavings.com/weld-nut ... -1920.html

Gil

Charlie Wilson wrote:Hello, it looks like from your renderings that you want to use a single sheet and bend it rather than using side panels. Therefore I think having the lip on the long sides is the best solution. Just know with Perm nuts that steel is not intended to mate with aluminum. I know everybody does it but the aluminum eventually oxidizes and those things can break free. The CE Pedals chassis guys have found this out and it has happened to at least one real Dumble that I know about(#94). The most bullet proof solution I think is how Dumble did it with #124.
CW

Structo · Post by **Structo** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 8:54 pm

Charlie Wilson wrote: I know everybody does it but the aluminum eventually oxidizes and those things can break free. The CE Pedals chassis guys have found this out and it has happened to at least one real Dumble that I know about(#94). The most bullet proof solution I think is how Dumble did it with #124.
CW

Actually the CE chassis had stainless inserts which caused some galling when stainless screws were used.

I had this happen on my chassis where a screw snapped off.
CE was kind enough to send me new screws.

John_P_WI · Post by **John_P_WI** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 8:59 pm

PEMs are fine, they make specific PEMs for aluminum applications. One must follow the design requirements and use the proper press for installation etc. At my day job we use thousands annually.

BTW, the problem with the CE chassis was the use of stainless hardware and galling. I know as I purchased two of their early chassis, additionally there was a thread on this issue 3 or 4 years ago.... Speaking of the CE chassis they are actually very nice.

Structo · Post by **Structo** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 9:10 pm

I agree John, a very nice quality chassis with the CE.
Flawless silk screen and powder coat.

vibratoking · Post by **vibratoking** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 10:30 pm

Weld nuts on long sides.

Like this:
https://tubeamparchive.com/viewtopic.ph ... nk+chassis

stretch2011 · Post by **stretch2011** » Tue Oct 13, 2015 11:43 pm

Awesome. What size weld nut is normally used? 8-32?

stretch2011 · Post by **stretch2011** » Wed Oct 14, 2015 12:15 am

Last 2 question:

.625" flange? .5" over hang plus the material thickness. Since the weld nut is 7/16" wide.

Mounting holes on 1" centers from the ends?

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