Check my #124 style schematic + 50W amp

[dirty1_1garry]

Hello guys!

I'm a real noob in exact guitar amp building, studio equipment experience only.
I want to build my ODS head, so I want to take a little consultation about my ODS schematic.

I’m planning to build low plate #124 style preamp with skyline eq and #101 style 50W output amp. Schematic attached.

Couple notes about my schematic:
- mid boost switch
- pab switch
- deep switch
- I delete rock/jazz switch as I heard that jazz not so popular, fixed rock position.
- I add additional standby illumination lamp
- I’m planing to use Triode 40-18001 output transformer, bassman type transformer with 4/8/16Ohm windings and 40-18097 power transformer.
- I heard that it’s useful to have a switchable feedback in the CL2. Could it be really useful and if yes, what wattage of resistors more suitable here?

Do you guys think that it’s really good amp schematic for 50W amp and for proper transformers?

[Structo]

Make sure the bias cap C30 is reverse polarity with the + end to ground for negative bias voltage.

I can recommend building a four output tube amp. 4 x 6L6

Unless you have already bought the transformers.

It isn't about the amp having more power or volume, it's the tone
that affected and in a good way.

[dirty1_1garry]

Thank you for your recommendations!

Make sure the bias cap C30 is reverse polarity with the + end to ground for negative bias voltage.

Yap, my mistake))

I can recommend building a four output tube amp. 4 x 6L6
Unless you have already bought the transformers.

I've not bought transformed yet, so I have the ability to maneuver. Tell us more about this option or give a link for a thread!

It isn't about the amp having more power or volume, it's the tone
that affected and in a good way.

You mean that more power effect in a good way or less power effect in a good way?)

[jcsifu]

You mean that more power effect in a good way or less power effect in a good way?)

He is stating that the 100 watt has been known to be fuller/thicker/expletive of choice...

[Structo]

Yep, more better!

If you think about it, for a couple resistors and tube sockets, the upgrade to 100w is not that much, besides the cost of two extra power tubes when tubing the amp.

The 100w has more girth and range to the tone.

Remember these amps have a good master volume, add in a Dumbleator and you can run the preamp volume and master volume higher (in the sweet spot), while controlling the overall volume with the output pot on the D'lator.

[dirty1_1garry]

Looks like I'm changing my decision about wattage of my ODS

I want to build ODS for studio purpose only. So I delate all unnecessary relays, leave toggle switches only. I don't think that it' really necessary to have loud amp in studio, that's why I choose 50W. I really did not think about tone and difference of different wattage. That's because I'm not so specialist in guitar amps.
Well, you say that 100W sound much more in a rich way, so looks like I change my mind in 100W way))

[dirty1_1garry]

Ok, are there any ideas about what exact amp could be good for my purposes?
There are a couple 100W versions. What gives each of them?

[Luthierwnc]

You might designate whether you need audio or linear tapers on those pots. The treble and two overdrive pots are usually linear. The rest are audio -- except the trimmers.

If you are building something 4th generation (like a 124) or newer, you have to have an active loop. It just goes with the package.

As for switches, I put the OD, PAB and mid-boost on the floor. When I do an FET, that goes on the floor too. If you put the OD and PAB as toggles only, you don't have to put them on the front and back.

Even thought the relay power circuitry is more expensive and can be a PIA, it is isolated from the signal path. Those sensitive V1a wires are very short because the relay boards are close to the main board. If you extend the distance between them by putting them on panel toggles, you risk adding RF to the mix. An alternative would be to use the relays as usual and make the panel toggles control the DC voltage for the relay coils rather than running the signal wires back and forth.

One last thing, I read here sometime back that HAD wired the bias circuit with a 47UF cap on the input of the bias pot and another on the wiper. Follow Structo's advice about showing the positive on those caps going to ground. When I was a rookie, I found that when you don't, they may as well be firecrackers. sh

[dirty1_1garry]

Looks like 124 low plate classic rev1 lay could be a good decision for me as for 100W amp