MID Boost switching option

[jcsifu]

So as usual I've been trying to make something that works perfectly well work even better....yeah I think I have issues. There was a midrange character I set out to copy from Dumbles and clones I like.

1- I put a parametric eq in the loop to play with. I found that if I boosted 1250hz by 6db with a narrow-ish Q it gave me something close to the sound I wanted.

2- Using Duncan's program (using the Fender tone stack) I saw that if I raised the treble cap value to .001 it gave me the peak at around 1250.

3- Decide to use the switching config I'm attaching here to have 3 options

4- Originally had calculated that a 1000pF there was the best choice, but it yields 666.6pF and I'm superstitious so no way I could use the "demon value".

5- Decided to back off a little and try to end up with 400pF as the final value by using a 500pF (highest ceramic value I have on hand) cap as one of the 2 options to series in with the .002uF on the board.

I like the sort of clearer, maybe more articulate, could be slightly thicker sound it gives with the 500pF in series. It isn't as "committed" as the full mid boost, which I don't find myself liking too well usually. I might try some higher values later. I know I should have clips (and I will ASAP) but my niece is here for a week and I can't get amp time right now. Just too much spoiling of the niece to do...

[bluesfendermanblues]

Using a param eq to hone in on the sweet spots for your setup, sounds like a great idea!

Remember to try it live as well - if possible. Bedroom levels can be really deceiving- and in band situations you have to 'share' the frequency spectrum with your band mates and your guitar sound has to 'live' in a much more narrow freq spectrum, than in your bedroom where you try to get a full sound, only to realise that a small focused setup (like 50w and a 1x12 cab with a minimum of effects) is usually plentiful for live usage - especially when you play with a keyboard or a horn section.

Great that you are moving beyond cloning and bending the circuit towards your taste.

[martin manning]

Sorry, but I can't make any sense out of your diagram?!

[norburybrook]

good points. All instruments need to sit in a band mix situation and studio sessions/live work is the only real way to test this. A sound in isolation is of little use if it doesn't fit in a mix.

The bottom end of a guitar will really mess up a bass players mojo if it's too big or you play lots of low strings in your guitar parts, same as too much keyboard left hand another bug bear of bass players.


Marcus

[ToneMerc]

3 way mid boost switch, somewhere buried in here is that diagram. I did the same thing in my HRM build, only I put the caps on the board.

TM

[jcsifu]

Sorry, but I can't make any sense out of your diagram?!

Sure,
Switch in up or down position puts a cap in, middle or off position gives the wire (no cap). The diagram is with the switch oriented so the switching is up and down.

[jcsifu]

Remember to try it live as well - if possible. Bedroom levels can be really deceiving- and in band situations you have to 'share' the frequency spectrum with your band mates and your guitar sound has to 'live' in a much more narrow freq spectrum

So true bro. I do need to try this live to verify, but I have a suspicion that since it is not a drastic change to the original tone, it will sit really well.

Live sound and band mix is something every performer needs to master as well as possible for sure. It was a learning experience for me, sometimes at the cost of my audiences ears...

[jcsifu]

Using a param eq to hone in on the sweet spots for your setup, sounds like a great idea!

Thank you sir!

[norburybrook]

I'm going to give this a go on my build as I have an On-off-on DPDT switch sat here looking at me


Marcus

[martin manning]

Sorry, but I can't make any sense out of your diagram?!

Sure,
Switch in up or down position puts a cap in, middle or off position gives the wire (no cap). The diagram is with the switch oriented so the switching is up and down.

Okay; this type of switch is called on-on-on, not on-off-on as sated above. Now, capacitors with only one lead? Are the crossed wires connected or not? (I can guess "yes" now that I know the switch function). Just busting your chops... ;^)

[jcsifu]

Sorry, but I can't make any sense out of your diagram?!

Sure,
Switch in up or down position puts a cap in, middle or off position gives the wire (no cap). The diagram is with the switch oriented so the switching is up and down.

Okay; this type of switch is called on-on-on, not on-off-on as sated above. Now, capacitors with only one lead? Are the crossed wires connected or not? (I can guess "yes" now that I know the switch function). Just busting your chops... ;^)

Ahhh crap! You're right. Thank you for catching that. I guess it was late night and I was in a hurry to share. I'll go back and edit.

[norburybrook]

ha, I'll guess I'll go back to plan A then I did wonder if it was off in the middle how that would work.

Marcus

[jcsifu]

ha, I'll guess I'll go back to plan A then I did wonder if it was off in the middle how that would work.

Marcus

Yeah, my bad. Just corrected diagram. Switching works though as it is with on on on. I like it, see what you think.

[jcsifu]

Now, capacitors with only one lead? Are the crossed wires connected or not? (I can guess "yes" now that I know the switch function). Just busting your chops... ;^)

Ok ok...chops busted bro . I agree it is good practice to properly present diagrams for clarity...just was in a hurry. I'll make sure I do a better job from now on ya ball buster!

All kidding aside, thanks for the polite reminder that posting clear diagrams is important as to avoid confusion.

[martin manning]

No worries, but I still don't like it... How about this?