50W ODS 70s 2nd gen

[jelle]

Working on a 70s ODS, I'd figure I would share it here. It sounds great with single coils. Did not try buckers yet.

[mhartman]

Looks great Jelle!

[jelle]

Martin, thanks!

[M Fowler]

Always great seeing your excellent work Jelle.

[dcribbs1412]

Jelle
very nice inspiring build
some really tasty looking NOS resistors.
Thanks for sharing

Darin

[eniam rognab]

cool jelle!

dat looks great!

[Structo]

That looks nice!

Can I have it?

[rogb]

Nice work Jelle!
Are you running 12AT7 in the PI? Or 12AX7?
I have just finished my 2nd gen hybrid and was getting 278-285 in the PI but 325 when trying out 12AX7s.
I changed the plate resistors to 100/110K ( I have a 10K trimmer in there too) and I am trying out 12AX7 at 295/298.
So far I am liking the clean and OD of this 2nd gen.

[amplifiednation]

Nice looking amp Jelle! Man how do you solder to such a thick bus? It must take a ton of heat

[Luthierwnc]

I can't speak for Jelle but one handy trick for soldering in areas that need a lot of heat is to use an old Weller OR Wen soldering gun and split the tip. I have one that I use for pulling old frets. You cut the end of the wire element at the tip and splay the ends so you can make contact on each end of a fret. They heat-up across the length -- softening any glue holding them in so you can squeeze them out with the nippers.

For buss wire or a Fender-style ground blob, just keep the tips a quarter to a half inch apart and use your main soldering pen directly on the joint. I plug it in on a different breaker since they do pull a little juice. sh

[lovetone]

Hi Jelle

Any sound clips with the strat?

[amplifiednation]

I can't speak for Jelle but one handy trick for soldering in areas that need a lot of heat is to use an old Weller OR Wen soldering gun and split the tip. I have one that I use for pulling old frets. You cut the end of the wire element at the tip and splay the ends so you can make contact on each end of a fret. They heat-up across the length -- softening any glue holding them in so you can squeeze them out with the nippers.

For buss wire or a Fender-style ground blob, just keep the tips a quarter to a half inch apart and use your main soldering pen directly on the joint. I plug it in on a different breaker since they do pull a little juice. sh

This sounds like a lot of work for a thick bus bar, why not use a lighter gauge copper? Is there an advantage to the heavier bar I'm not aware of? I would be too suspect of a cold joint

[Luthierwnc]

I use 14 ga Romex and the soldering station works fine. I've got a lifetime supply. Out of the sleeve, Romex has a hard film on the copper so a quick scrub with some Scotchbrite preps the surface. I think I replaced the solder gun element with Romex when the original wore out.

Unlike many TAG members, I occasionally have to undo what I've done That's where some extra heat comes in handy. With the unconnected poles open, you can desolder some stubborn parts or surround an element on an etched board so it comes out clean. Solder wick gets most of it but not all. Plus, those chassis blobs can always use some help.

If I was more concerned with the looks I'd probably get brazing rods for the buss bars. Since I tend to bend the Romex around it doesn't matter but for a dead-straight appearance, it is good to start with something straight. sh

[martin manning]

Some folks have used K&S copper tubing (from a hobby shop). Nice and straight, looks big, but has a thin wall... So low heat ;^)

[M Fowler]

I ran out of the Hobby Lobby straight copper wire and now using 12ga Romex chucked up in drill twist and presto it's straight. Learned that trick on TAG imagine that.