Hey guys,
I've scoured the net on this...I can't seem to find the answer to this question and can't wrap my head around how to power the LEDs on this footswitch.
I'm using 12V aux transformer and the wiring from 183
I have a 2 button marshall style footswitch with a 1/4" stereo jack. The switch has 1K resistors inside
I don't know whether to use a stereo cliff jack, isolated from the chassis, or a stereo switchcraft jack. I wanted to use the switchcraft
The relay switching I'm all set on, I get that, but I can't figure out how to power the LEDs. I can run a lead from the 1000uf cap to either side of the footswtich...but wouldn't that electrically connect each side of the switch and cause both relays to ground when either side was engaged?
I've attached a drawing of the board layout I am using. any help would be awesome.
Thanks
Taylor
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Last edited by amplifiednation on Sat Oct 12, 2013 2:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Yes it has three conductors, tip, ring, sleeve, just like that diagram.
Where does the LED power come from?
I'm switching PAB and OD...
So i'll use tip/ring for those connects, toggle to ground to turn on relay.
On all the Dumble layouts, there are 1K resistors coming off the relay supply capacitor, running to a seperate lug of a 5 lug switch...but for the stereo 1/4" jack, there is only two lugs, and then a common ground.
The switch has 1K's in it. I can snap a picture of it...I'm pretty sure I read that if the switch has the 1K's, I can leave them off the board and just have a single wire providing LED power. Is that accurate?
In this D'Lite scheme the relay coil and LED are in series, IOW, current flowing through the relay coil lights the LED. If you have a 12V supply, you will likely have to mess with the 150R resistor to get the right current limit for the LED. See if the relay will pull in with the 1K's in the footswitch. That should be safe for the LED. And, yes, eliminate the 1k's on the board.
Re the ground, you can use a Switchcraft TRS non-isolated, just make that the only ground point for the relay/footswitch circuit.
martin manning wrote:In this D'Lite scheme the relay coil and LED are in series, IOW, current flowing through the relay coil lights the LED. If you have a 12V supply, you will likely have to mess with the 150R resistor to get the right current limit for the LED. See if the relay will pull in with the 1K's in the footswitch. That should be safe for the LED. And, yes, eliminate the 1k's on the board.
Re the ground, you can use a Switchcraft TRS non-isolated, just make that the only ground point for the relay/footswitch circuit.
Here's what I have in the switch....just that 1K resistor.
So i may not need a separate run for LED power? I thought I might not need to...what is different than using the stereo 1/4" switch as opposed to the way 183/traditional Dumble is wired?
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That FS wants to be wired just like the drawing Tom posted. The catch is you will drop 2V across the LED and more across the resistor, so the relay has to be capable of functioning on what's left. They are pretty tolerant, so it generally works. Original Dumbles had a separate supply wire running to the FS for the LED, and the stomp switches grounded both the relay coil and the LED at the same time. In that scheme the relay got the full supply voltage.
So i will just keep the wiring the way i have it, and hopefully there is enough juice to work the relay and the light...I'm hoping on finding out today!! I got some serious work to do first though...
So I'm wrapping this up now, trying to get the footswitch working properly.
The power supply worked out great, all relays are switching perfectly with the manual toggles.
I have two relays, each going to each tip of a stereo jack, with the sleeve grounded
I've got a two button 'marshall replacement' footswitch wired like the drawing (pulled this from google images).
When i plug the switch in, it will turn the OD relay on, but it won't turn it off, and the LEDs do work, but they just turn on and off with the switch without triggering the relay
Whats weird is the continuity does switch on the jack, but the relay remains on
I'm also showing that there is 8v coming from the relay, and that DC is switched with the footswitched, but the OD relay doesn't shut off.
The PAB relay seems unaffected by the switch.
Is this footswitched wired incorrectly?
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Hi Taylor, look at the Brown Note drawing- LED, resistor, and switch are all in series. The Vox drawing has the diode and resistor in series but they're across the switch, so if the resistor is small enough it will be "on" all the time.
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