Chassis Mounting Methods

[David Root]

I got two custom sized chassis from RJ for a first generation build, which I scaled off pics of Lindley's as 17x8x2. 1/8" thick material but I didn't think about how to mount the chassis to the cabinet.

Any suggestions? The CE chassis uses a welded nut arrangement. Brandon uses something that looks like what HAD used but I cannot find it anywhere.

[martin manning]

CE uses a Swage Nut, for which a setting tool is required. A Rivnut is another option, but also requires a setting tool. RJ's Express chassis shipped with these. Aircraft Nut Plates, which are designed to be attached with rivets, can be drilled out to accept small screws. These can be found on eBay in small quantities. A Weld Nut is similar, T-shaped, and can also be drilled to attach with small screws. I believe this is what HAD used, and you might find them locally at a hardware store.

[mhartman]

Check out this page for some ideas:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-nuts/=luybui

I've used weld nuts (drilling out mounting holes), I might try those easy align weld nuts on my next custom build if I have room. I've also used 10/32 aircraft nut plates from eBay.

[tubedogsmith]

You can also do something similar to Fender with 4" screws and lock nuts going thru the bottom of the chassis.

[mhartman]

You can also do something similar to Fender with 4" screws and lock nuts going thru the bottom of the chassis.

I did a combination of both methods on my recent SSS build. I mounted 10/32 weld nuts to the bottom of the chassis with screws (similar to the way that you would mount them to the lip). Then I used 4" 10/32 screws to mount the chassis to the cab. This is simlar to the way that Two Rock mounts their chassis lately, except they use cage nuts at the bottom of the chassis. I didn't have an easy way to make square holes for the cage nuts, so I went with the weld nuts. [edit] I will note, however, that you really have to plan ahead if you want to mount this way.

[David Root]

Thanx guys for your help. I'll look at the Fender and HAD methods I think.

[jelle]

One ODS I looked at used the tall fender style screws through the bottom of the chassis like a blackface fender. Should be simple enough to do...

[talbany]

Dave
I highly recommend (if you can) adding side rails in the cab..SOOO much easier to slide in and out and helps to stabalize the weigh down by the transformers..Also with the amp in the cab makes it much easier to drill your pilot holes for the strap (Fender) method

Good Luck!!

Tony

[dreric]

Brandon uses something that looks like what HAD used but I cannot find it anywhere.

Try these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-Ea-MS21059L0 ... 87&vxp=mtr

[David Root]

Tony, the cabinet does have rails, see pic, so I think the Fender straps will work, although the straps will be close to the edges of the cab because the chassis lip, see pic, is a little narrow I think.

It's a 50W so I have a bit more room potentially.

[David Root]

Update: I used the Fender chassis straps, 4".

Drilled a 3/16" bit thru the cabinet and the lip of the chassis, then a #29 tap drill (0.135") thru the chassis itself. Tapped the hole for 8-32, and then screwed the Fender bolts in. They are a bit long but go into the softwood rails OK.

Not enough room below the chassis for the #8 KEPS nut. The rails would have to be cut out about 1/2" in four places to do that, so I used the tap method. How long the threads in aluminum will last I don't know but RJ said it is a T6061 type aircraft alloy which is relatively hard so I'm not too concerned.

All's well that ends well!

[martin manning]

IMO a #8 is too small in 1/8 in of aluminum. If these are for sale you dont want a failure, which will cost much more than doing it right in the first place. In your situation going through the chassis with no access and limited clearance I think a Rivnut would be a good solution to get more threaded length. The good news is you can always install them if what you have strips or pulls out.

[David Root]

Thanx Martin, this looks like the right solution. Is this the right hand tool, see pic? This one is $20, the others are a lot more.

Also, please explain grip range, see tech datasheet. Not sure which range I need.

[martin manning]

Grip range is the range of the material thickness that the rivet nut will accommodate, I.e. the chassis metal thickness range. I'm not exactly sure how that tool is used viz. right vs left hand. Do you have a link with more info? If you are only doing a few you can set these things in place with a socket head cap screw, a washer and a nut

[Kagliostro]

You don't really need a special tool to install Treaded Inserts

you can simply modify a Riveter

This is the "invention" of a my friend

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... GFsllloy9w

K