Soldering the shielded cable onto the pots?

[Mark]

I'm using Alpha pots, and I remove some of the plating and tin this area as required. I have a 80 watt iron with a reasonably large tip so the transfer of heat to the pot surface isn't an issue.

I have found soldering one shield (braid) to the pot quite easy.

My concern is how do you solder one shielded cable braid to the side of the pot and then another braid to the back of the pot as HAD originally did.
I'm looking to avoid getting large blobs of solder flicked at me as the first joint melts when trying to attach the second braid to the pot.

What is the best way to to this?

[ayan]

Hi Mark,

Not exactly sure how you do it. I lay the cable where it will go and set my soldering iron at maximum power (40W). I just brush the iron tip against the braid and pot casing, and melt the solder right there and then. I'd say that, at 40W, heat is pretty localized because when I do the side the back doesn't bat an eye and vice versa.

Gil

I'm using Alpha pots, and I remove some of the plating and tin this area as required. I have a 80 watt iron with a reasonably large tip so the transfer of heat to the pot surface isn't an issue.

I have found soldering one shield (braid) to the pot quite easy.

My concern is how do you solder one shielded cable braid to the side of the pot and then another braid to the back of the pot as HAD originally did.
I'm looking to avoid getting large blobs of solder flicked at me as the first joint melts when trying to attach the second braid to the pot.

What is the best way to to this?

[martin manning]

I just refuse to do it... problem solved! However, if you must, I'd try tinning both areas on the pot and both braids (load them up with solder). Then lay each tinned braid on the appropriate tinned spot and heat the braid, first one and then the other. Hopefully the second braid will fuse to the tinned area on the pot with a minimum of heat transferred, preventing separation of the first joint.

[Structo]

Yep pre-tinning the braid and pot is the secret.
Use alligator clips or something to hold the cable in place so it doesn't move while the solder is setting.

[ayan]

If you pre-tin the pot and the braid, you will end up with the cable standing off about 1/8" away from the surface of the pot casing. If you have enough heat going on, you can do it without pre-tinning anything. This is what my Alpha pot looks like when I do it as I described.

Cheers,

Gil

[xtian]

I just refuse to do it...

Do you NOT ground the pot chassis?

[ToneMerc]

My concern is how do you solder one shielded cable braid to the side of the pot and then another braid to the back of the pot as HAD originally did.

I pre tin both the pot and braid, with term 3 cable exposed about half as the cable on term 2. I solder term 2 first, the one that takes more heat and then the outside cable on term 3. I hit term 3 with just enough heat to blend, no more no less.

TM

[martin manning]

I just refuse to do it...

Do you NOT ground the pot chassis?

All the pots get grounded at their mounting bushings.

[amplifiednation]

Scuffing up the back (or side) of the pot with some light sand paper before you tin it works great and can save you some serious time.

I think what Martin was saying is that many of us would rather put a jumper wire from the braid to the ground bus instead of soldering to the back of the pot. I like that a whole lot better, its cleaner and although there is a bit more prep involved, it is easier in the end.

[ayan]

I use a tiny screwdriver and "go Dexter" on the pot casing (criss cross pattern). Takes about 30 seconds.

Gil

Scuffing up the back (or side) of the pot with some light sand paper before you tin it works great and can save you some serious time.

Edit- I think what Martin was saying is that many of us would rather put a jumper wire from the braid to the ground bus instead of soldering to the back of the pot. I like that a whole lot better, its cleaner and although there is a bit more prep involved, it is easier in the end.

[diagrammatiks]

I just refuse to do it...

Do you NOT ground the pot chassis?

all pots are grounded already.

[Bob-I]

I ALWAYS tin before soldering, everything. I don't load up with solder, just enough to get it shiny. Alligator clips will hold the wires in place while you solder.

[brentm]

Is there any way to remove that sticky substance on the back of alpha pots? It's like a wax or a tacky lacquer or something... maybe that would help. I haven't tried it, but maybe some naptha on a q-tip?

[Luthierwnc]

+1 on scuffing the back of the pot (or anything that will be hard to reach with extended heat later). That especially applies to Fender-style grounds on steel chassis. I'll tin that with a torch before I do anything else. I use a scotch bright pad. I also use ordinary romex for the buss bar. That has some sort of varnish on the metal so wipe it a couple times too.

After the fact, chuck a pencil in your drill with the eraser side out. You can mildly abrade hidden slick spots if you discover them too late. Super glue a piece of wet-or-dry on the end for stubborn areas. Dremels work great too. sh

[BobW]

Yes tinning both cable and pot is a must. I also use a little flux to help flow, then clean up afterwards