Trying to find the FET input jack.

[Matt J]

Hey guys,

While I'm working out some other things in my #102 build (I'll have more updates on that later), I am still trying to find the correct type of shunting jack to use for the FET input. I tried a Kobiconn version you see in the layout for #40 and using the information on here I wired it together. I did not like how it turned out, there were too many ground wires running around. The shunting jack looks a lot similar.

The closet I've found is from Antique Electronic Supply:
http://www.tubesandmore.com/scripts/fox ... em=W-SC-13

The problem is that is has only 2 sets of double conductor lugs then nothing else instead of the 2-1-2 conductor lug layout seen in the image I've posted below.

Anyone know a good source with this part, or an alternate wiring method that does not include the kobicon jack?

Thanks!
- Matt J.

[mmmoser]

Stereo Jack- switchcraft type

[jelle]

Switchcraft 13E. Have fun.

Jelle

[passfan]

I used a switchcraft 14B from mouser.

[ChrisM]

I used a switchcraft 14B from mouser.

+1

[Matt J]

Thanks everyone! I've just put some orders in for them.

I'll have more updates on my #102 build soon, I'm trying out a new power transformer and it seems to work pretty well so far.

- Matt J.

[Structo]

After trying two different Switchcraft jacks for the FET input I gave up on them.

It would work fine until after it was in the head shell for a while then I would plug into the FET jack and it would crackle or not make any noise.

So I ripped out that pos and put in the Kobi-con jack like HAD used

This drawing by HookedOnPhonix shows how it is connected.

When I asked him about that jack he said that they had changed it and he now uses one called the Calrad 30-385.
www.calrad.com/download/30%20Series.pdf

But I had already ordered the Kobi so that is what I used and it works great, no more messing with the switch leafs, works 100%.

I got my Kobi jack from Mouser.

[crbowman]

After trying two different Switchcraft jacks for the FET input I gave up on them.

It would work fine until after it was in the head shell for a while then I would plug into the FET jack and it would crackle or not make any noise.

So I ripped out that pos and put in the Kobi-con jack like HAD used

This drawing by HookedOnPhonix shows how it is connected.

When I asked him about that jack he said that they had changed it and he now uses one called the Calrad 30-385.
www.calrad.com/download/30%20Series.pdf

But I had already ordered the Kobi so that is what I used and it works great, no more messing with the switch leafs, works 100%.

I got my Kobi jack from Mouser.

I had the exact same experience. Worked fine for awhile, but eventually crapped out. I could go in and bend the shunting contacts and make it work for awhile, but would eventually go out again.
Replaced it with the Kobicon and have had no probs since.

[dreric]

After trying two different Switchcraft jacks for the FET input I gave up on them.

It would work fine until after it was in the head shell for a while then I would plug into the FET jack and it would crackle or not make any noise.

So I ripped out that pos and put in the Kobi-con jack like HAD used

This drawing by HookedOnPhonix shows how it is connected.

When I asked him about that jack he said that they had changed it and he now uses one called the Calrad 30-385.
www.calrad.com/download/30%20Series.pdf

But I had already ordered the Kobi so that is what I used and it works great, no more messing with the switch leafs, works 100%.

I got my Kobi jack from Mouser.

Great timing on this post, I've been trying to figure out the pin out on the cal-rad 30-385.

Do you know if it's the same as the Kobi? (looks the same)

Eric

[ToneMerc]

Eric, I've used both and wired the Calrad 30-385 the same as the Kobi 84-E.

TM

[passfan]

After trying two different Switchcraft jacks for the FET input I gave up on them.

It would work fine until after it was in the head shell for a while then I would plug into the FET jack and it would crackle or not make any noise.

So I ripped out that pos and put in the Kobi-con jack like HAD used

This drawing by HookedOnPhonix shows how it is connected.

When I asked him about that jack he said that they had changed it and he now uses one called the Calrad 30-385.
www.calrad.com/download/30%20Series.pdf

But I had already ordered the Kobi so that is what I used and it works great, no more messing with the switch leafs, works 100%.

I got my Kobi jack from Mouser.

I'm not a big fan of these for that very reason. I normally use cliffs. Don't ask me why I just put these in my 124. I guess I'll go ahead and put in my order, thanks for the diagram and number.

[amplifiednation]

I have been having VERY bad luck with switchcraft. Especially the shorting jacks. It is pretty frustrating

[Mark]

Who sells the Kobi-con jacks?

I agree about Switchcraft jacks, they look the same, but the metal in them isn't as good as the older jacks in older Fender amps.

I just found this link too.

http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=724

[alvarezh]

Switchcraft MIL-spec jacks:

http://www.switchcraft.com/productsumma ... Parent=399

Unfortunately only three models. Apparently the (X) on the model number is the ID for MIL-specs.

Mouser's catalog page 1353.

Hope this helps.

[Krinkle]

For anybody who's searching for the HAD part like I was, it is obsolete, but there is a replacement.

http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDeta ... SSfw%3d%3d