Starting a #124 Build - Progress

[steve_p]

Hi All,

First off I wanted to say thanks to all the folks here at TAG, the wealth of info here is amazing.
I have done a couple amp builds in the past, a 5E3 and a 18W TMB, both combos. However, I am about to get started on a #124 build.

I figured, why not document the build a little bit and post some info here. Should be a great way to get feedback as needed too...

Anyways, the basic specs that I am going with:
CE Chassis
Magnetic Components Transformers
Low plate Skyliner preamp.
F&T filter caps, 6ps coupling caps.
1W xicon carbon film resistors in most places.
RN65s on plates and cathodes.



I don't have any actual pictures yet, but here a are a few CAD snapshots of a few board layouts:

[IMG675]http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv10 ... sembly.jpg[/img]

[IMG671]http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv10 ... sembly.jpg[/img]
diodes not shown in this pic...

[IMG673]http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv10 ... Supply.jpg[/img]

I am going to machine the preamp, rectifier, and filter cap boards myself. I haven't finished the layout of the cap board yet, will post pics when it is done.
The relay supply and relay PCBs will be from expressPCB. I have left provision on the power supply board for an 7805 regulator and heatsink, as well as connections points and current limit resistors for the footswitch LEDS and the pilot LED. I figured it would be a little neater wiring to hook the pilot light up to the relay supply vs running the wires back to the power tube sockets.

I am expecting all my parts the end of this week. Hopefully I will start to have some real build pictures (and questions) soon!!!

Thanks,
Steve

[dreric]

Wow! (fancy pictures impress me) and welcome to the forum. I always enjoy a progress thread and I'm sure you'll find a lot of support.

Eric

[David Root]

Likewise, I'm sure. How do you do that?

[steve_p]

All the images were created in SolidWorks, a 3d CAD modeling program.
For the preamp and rectifier, I created the PCB manually by figuring out hole locations from looking at pictures and other layouts.
For the relay supply, I created the board in expressPCB, then exported a .dxf outline from there and loaded it into SolidWorks.
Then I created an assembly of each board with components.

A whole bunch of parts started to show up today.
My tube sockets and caps are arriving Friday from AES. hopefully my transformers will be here Friday as well.

Steve

[Structo]

Here is a file showing the board sizes.

[steve_p]

Thanks for the file with the board sizes. That layout that you just posted is one of the ones that I used as reference.

Steve

[angelodp]

Welcome, it will be great to see the full on amp in 3D.

Cheers A

[Gibsonman63]

Good work. Please don't stop.

[steve_p]

Thanks. I am not sure if I am going to wind up modeling the whole amp or not...we shall see.

Got some parts mounted, balance of my stuff should arrive tomorrow.

[IMG612]http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv10 ... AG0249.jpg[/img]

Steve

[David Root]

Looks like you have done your reading--assemble the amp from the chassis edges to the inside for all stuff bolted to the chassis, then the boards, wiring and lastly put in the iron and wire the power supply and then the heater wire. Or more or less like that.

[alvarezh]

Good job so far Steve.

Adding to David's building recommendations, I am going to point out that there are a few wires (specially the coaxials) that run underneath the preamp board from the front to the rear of the amp. It may be a good idea to install those before you install the said board.

The footswitch led power lines run fairly long to the back of the footswitch jack, do those early too. I trace mine on the bottom side and rear edge of the chassis and I hold them in place with silicone. The relay power lines are shorter but they too run a bit long, I use the same method on the bottom front edge of the chassis.

Just my two cents.

All the best.

[steve_p]

I have made some progress in the past few days.

Thursday I was able to get my boards machined and the eyelets installed. I machined them from 1/8" G-10 stock and am using 1/8" keystone eyelets from Mouser.

I got most of my parts in yesterday, so I now have all my pots, tube sockets, switches, jacks, standoffs and terminal strips installed.
I modified the chassis a little bit to use a Neutrik 5 pin male XLR instead of the DIN socket that the chassis came with the cutout for. I also enlarged the pilot lamp hole to use a larger, bezel mounted blue LED for the pilot light. I'm gonna push the led at about 30-35mA and it is going to be wicked bright.... oh, and did I mention it is blue? Hehe.

I started to assemble boards this evening. So far I have the rectifier and filter boards done. I started on the preamp board, however it is just about dinner time, so it will have to wait until later or tomorrow to get finished.

Gratuitous photos:

[IMG612]http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv10 ... AG0251.jpg[/img]

[IMG612]http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv10 ... AG0254.jpg[/img]

[IMG612]http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv10 ... AG0253.jpg[/img]

[odourboy]

I also enlarged the pilot lamp hole to use a larger, bezel mounted blue LED for the pilot light. I'm gonna push the led at about 30-35mA and it is going to be wicked bright.... oh, and did I mention it is blue? Hehe.

Looking great Steve! But dude, I beg you to reconsider the LED current. Been there! Done that! A bright blue LED is OBNOXIOUS on stage. I've been seriously bashed. I now run mine at under 2mA just so it's not irritating.

[steve_p]

Hmmm, maybe I'll reconsider the led current. We shall see how it looks when it is fired up.

Steve

Edit...found my first error, I have my effect loop jacks swapped....i currently have the shorting jack on the send... I will have to swap those around.

[Structo]

Yeah, I have to agree about the extra bright blue pilot light.
Seriously, you can arc weld with those things.

And if you make the mistake of looking at it straight on, all you will see when you close your eyes is that bright light the rest of the night.

In fact I read about a warning for people using those, as in they are not safe (they can harm your eyes) to look at directly.