I really went the way long way around with the bias supply on my 100W MM build. All he did was ground one side of the org bias taps and the other(extended with a yel wire) side he took to two diodes in series.That's much simplier that the FWB MM styled supply I used.
Interesting method of grounding the shielded cables directly to the pots. I haven't noticed that way before but I kind of like it. It looks like some sort of metal sleeve was used.
sonicmojo wrote:Interesting method of grounding the shielded cables directly to the pots. I haven't noticed that way before but I kind of like it. It looks like some sort of metal sleeve was used.
It was SOP in the later generations. The trick I found to get the braid coating very uniform is to apply flux prior to soldering it and pinning in place.
sonicmojo wrote:Interesting method of grounding the shielded cables directly to the pots. I haven't noticed that way before but I kind of like it. It looks like some sort of metal sleeve was used.
The trick is Teflon wire. The "metal sleeve" is just the tinned shielding. It a little tricky to get good at but it works well. Because it's Teflon you can heat the bejesus out of it, wouldn't work with PVC.
dreric wrote:
The trick is Teflon wire. The "metal sleeve" is just the tinned shielding. It a little tricky to get good at but it works well. Because it's Teflon you can heat the bejesus out of it, wouldn't work with PVC.
I was wondering about the heat factor. Thanks guys, I just found another recent thread on the subject so sorry to hijack. I was recently thinking of picking up some M17/128-RG400 type. Is this the same type stuff?
dreric wrote:
The trick is Teflon wire. The "metal sleeve" is just the tinned shielding. It a little tricky to get good at but it works well. Because it's Teflon you can heat the bejesus out of it, wouldn't work with PVC.
I was wondering about the heat factor. Thanks guys, I just found another recent thread on the subject so sorry to hijack. I was recently thinking of picking up some M17/128-RG400 type. Is this the same type stuff?
1. Obviously use Teflon cable. I love the gold stuff that steve at Apex sells.
2. Using a file or Dremel tool and scrap the back of the pot (if it is not solderable directly.
3. Tin the back of the pot with solder
4. Tin the shield of the cable. I normally strip back 1/2 to 5/8".
5. Solder or climp the center control to the pot terminal
6. Lay the tinned shield to the tin portion the pot and heat of the edge of the joint until the solder melts. You can apply an additional bead if needed.
I normally use a small vise to hold the shaft of the pot while I am soldering the connection.
Located in the St Croix River Valley- Afton, MN
About 5 miles south of I-94
aka K0GWA, K0 Glas Werks Amplification www.glaswerks.com
dreric wrote:
The trick is Teflon wire. The "metal sleeve" is just the tinned shielding. It a little tricky to get good at but it works well. Because it's Teflon you can heat the bejesus out of it, wouldn't work with PVC.
I was wondering about the heat factor. Thanks guys, I just found another recent thread on the subject so sorry to hijack. I was recently thinking of picking up some M17/128-RG400 type. Is this the same type stuff?
I use RG188: white jacket PTFE, 29.5pf/f
I'm not sure what I'm using. If you call Steve at Apex Jr. he'll set you up.