Music Man Iron Classic

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talbany
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Music Man Iron Classic

Post by talbany »

Hey Everyone

Here is a shot of a wood side Music Man Classic Stack amp

Things to Note are

50uf on plates
No Formica... :)
Filament supply tap 2 used to power relays..

Pretty cool Huh!!

Tony
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" The psychics on my bench is the same as Dumble'"
Teleguy61
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Re: Music Man Iron Classic

Post by Teleguy61 »

Pretty cool is right!
How's it sound?
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ToneMerc
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Re: Music Man Iron Classic

Post by ToneMerc »

Cool, it doesn't look like he used the low value screen resistors either.

TM
talbany
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Re: Music Man Iron Classic

Post by talbany »

Since screens are running 1/2 plates no real need for high value there IMO..More than likely what he had in the drawer..

5K1 value grid stoppers so it ran EL-34's

Tony
" The psychics on my bench is the same as Dumble'"
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martin manning
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Re: Music Man Iron Classic

Post by martin manning »

I think that is Formica, just a solid color. Notice the relay supply board is wood grain.
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ToneMerc
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Re: Music Man Iron Classic

Post by ToneMerc »

I really went the way long way around with the bias supply on my 100W MM build. All he did was ground one side of the org bias taps and the other(extended with a yel wire) side he took to two diodes in series.That's much simplier that the FWB MM styled supply I used.
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sonicmojo
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Re: Music Man Iron Classic

Post by sonicmojo »

Interesting method of grounding the shielded cables directly to the pots. I haven't noticed that way before but I kind of like it. It looks like some sort of metal sleeve was used.
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ToneMerc
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Re: Music Man Iron Classic

Post by ToneMerc »

sonicmojo wrote:Interesting method of grounding the shielded cables directly to the pots. I haven't noticed that way before but I kind of like it. It looks like some sort of metal sleeve was used.
It was SOP in the later generations. The trick I found to get the braid coating very uniform is to apply flux prior to soldering it and pinning in place.
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dreric
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Re: Music Man Iron Classic

Post by dreric »

sonicmojo wrote:Interesting method of grounding the shielded cables directly to the pots. I haven't noticed that way before but I kind of like it. It looks like some sort of metal sleeve was used.
The trick is Teflon wire. The "metal sleeve" is just the tinned shielding. It a little tricky to get good at but it works well. Because it's Teflon you can heat the bejesus out of it, wouldn't work with PVC.

Eric
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sonicmojo
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Re: Music Man Iron Classic

Post by sonicmojo »

dreric wrote: The trick is Teflon wire. The "metal sleeve" is just the tinned shielding. It a little tricky to get good at but it works well. Because it's Teflon you can heat the bejesus out of it, wouldn't work with PVC.
I was wondering about the heat factor. Thanks guys, I just found another recent thread on the subject so sorry to hijack. I was recently thinking of picking up some M17/128-RG400 type. Is this the same type stuff?
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ToneMerc
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Re: Music Man Iron Classic

Post by ToneMerc »

sonicmojo wrote:
dreric wrote: The trick is Teflon wire. The "metal sleeve" is just the tinned shielding. It a little tricky to get good at but it works well. Because it's Teflon you can heat the bejesus out of it, wouldn't work with PVC.
I was wondering about the heat factor. Thanks guys, I just found another recent thread on the subject so sorry to hijack. I was recently thinking of picking up some M17/128-RG400 type. Is this the same type stuff?
I use RG188: white jacket PTFE, 29.5pf/f
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glasman
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Re: Music Man Iron Classic

Post by glasman »

Hints for soldering the shield.

1. Obviously use Teflon cable. I love the gold stuff that steve at Apex sells.

2. Using a file or Dremel tool and scrap the back of the pot (if it is not solderable directly.

3. Tin the back of the pot with solder

4. Tin the shield of the cable. I normally strip back 1/2 to 5/8".

5. Solder or climp the center control to the pot terminal

6. Lay the tinned shield to the tin portion the pot and heat of the edge of the joint until the solder melts. You can apply an additional bead if needed.

I normally use a small vise to hold the shaft of the pot while I am soldering the connection.
Located in the St Croix River Valley- Afton, MN
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dreric
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Re: Music Man Iron Classic

Post by dreric »

ToneMerc wrote:
sonicmojo wrote:
dreric wrote: The trick is Teflon wire. The "metal sleeve" is just the tinned shielding. It a little tricky to get good at but it works well. Because it's Teflon you can heat the bejesus out of it, wouldn't work with PVC.
I was wondering about the heat factor. Thanks guys, I just found another recent thread on the subject so sorry to hijack. I was recently thinking of picking up some M17/128-RG400 type. Is this the same type stuff?
I use RG188: white jacket PTFE, 29.5pf/f
I'm not sure what I'm using. If you call Steve at Apex Jr. he'll set you up.

Eric
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UltraHookedOnPhonix
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Re: Music Man Iron Classic

Post by UltraHookedOnPhonix »

Really cool! Thanks for the gut pic.

3.9K feedback R.
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Structo
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Re: Music Man Iron Classic

Post by Structo »

Hey Tony,
Do you know the serial number of this amp?
Tom

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