High Plate Skyline 100 Watt ODS

[Structo]

Well, I'm making some headway with this amp so I thought it was time for some pics.
I have the transformers but I'm holding off on mounting them since they make the chassis so heavy to work on.

The chassis is from the last run of CE chassis.

[img:800:212]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_MHnI-B0pJ8k/TMyFR ... G_0649.JPG[/img]

[img:800:189]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_MHnI-B0pJ8k/TMyFR ... G_0650.JPG[/img]

This is a very well made chassis. High grade aluminum with welded corners.
It has a slightly wrinkled black paint job with nice quality silk screened graphics.
I would recommend these chassis to anyone wanting a good chassis.
Not cheap but quality rarely is.
[img:800:343]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_MHnI-B0pJ8k/TMyFS ... G_0651.JPG[/img]

The main board with flying leads. I used stranded 20 gauge Teflon wire.
1/8" G10/F4 Garolite board. Very stiff and bullet proof board.
I made mistakes on the mounting holes and had to fill them with epoxy and re-drill.
Epoxy works great on this material.
I put clear silicone between the mid, bass and treble caps to keep microphonics minimal.
[img:800:600]http://lh4.ggpht.com/_MHnI-B0pJ8k/TMyFS ... G_0665.JPG[/img]

[img:704:528]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_MHnI-B0pJ8k/TMyFS ... G_0667.jpg[/img]

The Sprague 320uF caps are from a forum member.
They are big! So I had to really cram it all on this small board.
[img:800:675]http://lh4.ggpht.com/_MHnI-B0pJ8k/TMyFa ... G_0676.JPG[/img]

The rectifier board. Sprague Atom 100uF/ 100v cap.
Fast recovery diodes with .01uF snubbers. Siliconed to keep things quiet.
[img:800:537]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_MHnI-B0pJ8k/TMyFk ... G_0674.JPG[/img]

I used terminal strips to mount my screen and grid resistors on.
I didn't want the grid stoppers floating in the air that a lot of builders do.
I wanted this amp rock solid.
Dual bias pots so I have the ability to balance the power tubes however I like.
So I can either balance them right on or make a harmonically rich mis-match. I want to experiment with that.
[img:800:440]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_MHnI-B0pJ8k/TMyGt ... G_0669.JPG[/img]

[img:800:230]http://lh4.ggpht.com/_MHnI-B0pJ8k/TMyGt ... G_0670.JPG[/img]

So I'm about to the point where I need to stuff the boards in there and wire the amp up.
I have one more order coming from Mouser on Wednesday hopefully.
I bought the higher end 5 pin DIN connectors with the locking plug.

I have a couple decisions to make about the relays and what all I will switch with the foot pedal.
One thing for certain, I will have one relay that switches the bright cap on when in clean mode but switches off when I go to overdrive.
I have that in my D'lite and like it a lot.

I think I will go for a Deep switch on the front panel but have Mid Boost on the foot pedal.
So PAB, Mid Boost and Clean/OD on the foot pedal.

I still haven't decided how I am going to approach the head shell cab.
I have a nice Oak plank that I may use if I decide to go natural.
Or buy some voidless plywood and make a cab and tolex it.
That will be a first.
Lot of fun!
These amps are a bit of a pain to build.
Not sure I could whip one out very fast but as with most things, experience counts so maybe after a few I could do one in a week.

[ChrisM]

Looking good Tom. Pics are kinda hard to see (make click-able thumbnails?) but everything looks pretty solid so far.

Deep on the front with PAB, Mid and OD on a footswitch is great, lots of versatility. Not to mention bright on clean only, which you can also select with the three way bright switch on the front.

What are you using for a 5conductor footswitch cable?

[CHIP]

Looks good, Tom.

[67plexi]

Nice, Tom you may won’t to make the cab before the transformers are installed.
Pine is a good choice if you are going to tolex the cab, dirt cheap and strong easy to work with and feather weight, paint it black and only you will know when you lift the head box, weight of that plank of oak or plywood. Next time you are at the lumber yard pick up a 1”x12”x8’ board of pine 2-4 lbs.
The amp looks good so far.

Take care, Steve.

[David Root]

Looks good Tom. The terminal strips for the grid resistors are absolutely required.

As to assembly sequence, Brandon had a very detailed description a while back which I have been following, it's basically start at the outside, move to the inside, build all boards before you need them, do the power wiring and heaters last and put the iron on towards the end, after you have all the boards in.

What high plate order are you following? All 220/3K3, hi gain on V1, lower on V2, etc? Can't really tell from the small pix.

[Structo]

OK, sorry for the small pics. I'll see if I can fix that.

Yeah, high plates meaning 220K/150K with the corresponding 3K3/2K2 cathodes.
Vishay RN65D plate resistors and Vishay CCF60 metal film most everywhere else on the board.

Steve I hear you on the oak, might not be the best amp to use a heavy wood on, since it already will be heavy.

I rarely have ever seen any pine around here that is clear enough to use for cabinetry.
I think the guys on the east coast have all that.
The stuff I see at the Home Depot type places is full of knots.

Chris my local electronic surplus place has some network cable that works good for the foot pedal.
The only thing I don't like about it is that it is grey.
But it is a six conductor with a foil shield and drain wire that seems to work well on my D'lite amp so I'll just repeat the use of it for this one as well.
The pedal will have PAB, Mid Boost and Overdrive on it.

[talbany]

Tom
Looks wonderful so far!!.. Take your time enjoy the build and hope I can help..



Tony

[angelodp]

Tom, this is gonna be great... very excited to see the progression.

best Ange

[bluesfendermanblues]

.............I have a couple decisions to make about the relays and what all I will switch with the foot pedal.
One thing for certain, I will have one relay that switches the bright cap on when in clean mode but switches off when I go to overdrive.
I have that in my D'lite and like it a lot.

I think I will go for a Deep switch on the front panel but have Mid Boost on the foot pedal.
So PAB, Mid Boost and Clean/OD on the foot pedal.
............

Hi Tom,
Why don't you ditch the jazz/rock mode on the jazz/rock switch and use it for deep switching instead....

On my amps, the switch configuration is bright, mid and deep on the jazz/rock switch. On the latter 'rock' posiion is normal/deep off and 'jazz' position is deep on. Thats jazz sound in my book.

Like you I have bright on a relay for clean mode and mid on the foot pedal.

Just an idea.

[tubedogsmith]

Tom, FWIW, you can get a 5 pin midi cord at GC that fits those DIN jacks and save yourself the heartach of wiring up those 5 pin plugs and cord.

[ericlee]

Very nice Tom.
Good luck and we want sound samples when it’s finished !!!

[CHIP]

Tom,
What type of silicone did you use? I wasn't sure if I should just go to Home Depot and get some GE silicone II sealant. I was worried about whether or not some kind of chemical reaction would occur between the sealant and the solder or copper.

[Structo]

Thanks for the encouragement guys.
This is fun!

Let's see, Claus, I don't want to change up the front panel switch config too much mainly just because of the labeling that is there.

If this chassis had a smooth black paint job it would be easier to change that but the surface is a bit raised so I can't use my label maker on it as easily.
That's OK because I haven't ever tried the Rock/ Jazz switch so I am looking forward to that.

Thanks Tubedogsmith, I'll check that out.

@ Chip, yep, I used the GE brand clear silicone. It really holds down components well too.
It is a blue squeeze tube that says windows and doors, 100% silicone rubber sealant.
The large blue caps on my filter board are glued to the board with it as well as the F & T caps.
I don't get it near the copper or solder so I don't know if it reacts with those.

[CHIP]

Thanks, Tom.

[bigmik]

looking good Tom ,love those big blue sprague caps.

are you going to use an of the RF tweaks in her?



NEIL