2nd Gen Build Started (that didn’t take long…)

[Raoul Duke]

To make sure I’m understanding correctly - the black to purple wire (in place of the cap) would go to the bus and the orange wire is the Accent Sw NO?

I understand the other wiring (FX Return) as standard 102

Thanks Martin! That picture has to be worth two thousand words at least, lol.

[martin manning]

Orange and purple go to the accent switch, which also has the cap on it. The switch just places the cap across the 100R. The purple wire then goes on (via the black wire) to be grounded at the loop jacks. There is no need to connect any of that to the control bus ground.

[Raoul Duke]

So relating that to Tony’s 2nd Gen layout, orange would be the blue wire and purple would go to left side lower lug on switch?

[martin manning]

Like this:

[Raoul Duke]

Will do, thanks again!

[Raoul Duke]

Well the cost is negligible at $1.50 or so. You could just add one eyelet to your relay ps board and put it there. Personally I would feel better doing that, and power the relay and the footswitch LED with regulated 12VDC. The doubler will probably deliver 17 VDC or more, depending on the transformer's regulation..

Martin,
I see that you’ve separated the grounds in the drawing. Should they go to separate places?
https://ampgarage.com/forum/download/fi ... &mode=view

[martin manning]

That black lead on the relay supply was going off to the ground near the pilot lamp, as in the 102. You won't have that, so you can ground it with the HV rectifier like the 2nd Gen.

Seems like in the 2nd Gen layout the long black wire running from the footswitch jack to the pedal/manual switch is not grounded. That needs to go to the relay supply board ground too.

[Raoul Duke]

When you say “relay supply board ground” do you mean break that black wire and connect it to the HV ground lug enroute to the DIN; or connect it to where the ground from the rectifier board passes through the relay supply board (also enroute to the DIN).

Speaking of the DIN, Isee it doesn’t have solder lugs. Is it a good idea to try and drill holes in the terminals or will tack soldering the wires in be good enough?

Thanks!

[Raoul Duke]

Been a little stingy with pictures lately, so here’s a few key shots:

Part of my lack of documentation is because I’ve been working through some unexpected issues with the build. One being the pull bass pot obscuring one corner of the PS board. Thought I had it figured out, but turns out I didn’t. I think I do now. I relocated the OPT about 1/4” backward, which bought me enough room to access the screw that would secure the stand-off for the obscured corner - so now that stand-off will stay fastened to the board and secured from below.

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The other thing is space. I didn’t catch on at first, but the chassis sides being pushed in 3/8” created some access issues for the small boards. After reviewing component choices, re-working some boards (and PT mounting studs) and raising some of the mounting holes, I think I’ve gained the space I need.

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Last - I fully intended to connect the pre-amp grids and plates first - then on to the main board when the time came; but a few days ago I was putting the board together and was so engrossed in what I was doing that I also added a lot of the leads without even thinking. I did the last build this way and got my lead dress right - so I think I’ll be ok. Guess I’ll have to try leads first next build. And yes, I found another vintage Aerovox cap to include - just as I did in my 102. We’ll see how it works out.

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I’d like to thank everyone who’s chimed in with suggestions, info, and opinions in this thread so far! I learn something from each one of you and appreciate your input and fellowship immensely!

Many thanks as well to Martin! Your responses push me to figure things out and your patience is very much appreciated! I’m sure my questions can be pretty basic, but I learn something each time you put something up here to bail me out. Thank you!

Onward!

[dbharris]

Looking good! There seems to always be little things that pop up in every build. Figuring them out is half the fun!

-Dan

[sluckey]

Nice to see someone else using that neat little pcb holder.

[Raoul Duke]

Looking good! There seems to always be little things that pop up in every build. Figuring them out is half the fun!

-Dan

I completely agree! Thanks Dan!

[Raoul Duke]

Nice to see someone else using that neat little pcb holder.

Found it on sale so I rewarded myself. I considered it an indulgence but soon learned it really is handier than I expected.

I’ve read a bunch of your posts both here and on the Hoffman board and have learned quite a bit from you, so “Thanks” as well!

[martin manning]

When you say “relay supply board ground” do you mean break that black wire and connect it to the HV ground lug enroute to the DIN; or connect it to where the ground from the rectifier board passes through the relay supply board (also enroute to the DIN).

Break the long black wire and connect to the relay PS/main ground on the way to the pedal/manual switch, or, use that chassis hole over by the pilot lamp for a ground lug and make that a dedicated relay PS ground like your 102.
It looks like the cap on the pedal manual switch is in the wrong place too. It should be connected from the center lugs to the ground side.

Speaking of the DIN, Isee it doesn’t have solder lugs. Is it a good idea to try and drill holes in the terminals or will tack soldering the wires in be good enough?

Got a link to a data sheet or a photo? Maybe it has tubular solder lugs where you insert the lead and fill with solder?

I have one of those board holders too. Very useful tool.

[sluckey]

Found it on sale so I rewarded myself. I considered it an indulgence but soon learned it really is handier than I expected.

Look on the bottom of this web page to see how I modified mine to handle longer boards...

https://sluckeyamps.com/cradle/cradle.htm