members builds in progress

Bob-I · Post by **Bob-I** » Mon Mar 13, 2006 6:25 pm

Here's some updated pics of my 3 channel build

And a demo clip. Sorry about the digital clipping.

http://www.patmedia.net/bob-ingram/Allen/Demo1.mp3

dogears · Post by **dogears** » Mon Mar 13, 2006 8:33 pm

Hi ya Bob!

Maybe I should be renamed "eagle eyes!!!" LOL

Let us know how the fixes sound!

Bob-I · Post by **Bob-I** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 2:34 am

dogears wrote:Hi ya Bob!

Maybe I should be renamed "eagle eyes!!!" LOL

Let us know how the fixes sound!

Yea... I was in the room and I couldn't make out the colors you saw in the picture. That 100k was always meant to be 150k. Really helped smooth it out. Next, the grid caps on the PI. Let's see... 104 is .01uF, 103 is .1uF

dogears · Post by **dogears** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 5:33 am

104 is .1 and 103 is .01... LOL

Also, make sure to use the 1M pot and the internal 100k divider to feed it

Bob-I wrote:
dogears wrote:Hi ya Bob!

Maybe I should be renamed "eagle eyes!!!" LOL

Let us know how the fixes sound!
Yea... I was in the room and I couldn't make out the colors you saw in the picture. That 100k was always meant to be 150k. Really helped smooth it out. Next, the grid caps on the PI. Let's see... 104 is .01uF, 103 is .1uF

Bob-I · Post by **Bob-I** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 10:37 pm

I put a faceplate on it today. I wasn't successful using the ink jet decals so I printed it on photo paper and glued it to a piece of gargolyte. With the weather like it is I can't do much spraying so I'll make another, nicer one later. At least now I know what the controls do.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Fri Mar 17, 2006 12:45 am

wow
that looks nice

I put a faceplate on it today. I wasn't successful using the ink jet decals so I printed it on photo paper and glued it to a piece of gargolyte. With the weather like it is I can't do much spraying so I'll make another, nicer one later. At least now I know what the controls do.

Icetech · Post by **Icetech** » Fri Mar 17, 2006 12:57 am

ok bob.... im sending you my head to tweak/repair.. whenever i have time i just wanna plug in and play... my tone stack is totally destroyed, i gotta get around to fixin it:)

P.S. Bob.. what pickup/guitar you using? I am searching for pickups for my strat.. and i think im going to switch to a HB/SC/SC since i have never heard a single coil in bridge that i liked:(

and i just missed out on 3 rio grandes on ebay:( bastages....

Bob-I · Post by **Bob-I** » Fri Mar 17, 2006 3:53 am

Icetech wrote:ok bob.... im sending you my head to tweak/repair.. whenever i have time i just wanna plug in and play... my tone stack is totally destroyed, i gotta get around to fixin it:)

Nah, you can get it. Draw up a schematic and post it here, dogears'll get you straightened out if the rest of uis can't.

P.S. Bob.. what pickup/guitar you using? I am searching for pickups for my strat.. and i think im going to switch to a HB/SC/SC since i have never heard a single coil in bridge that i liked:(

and i just missed out on 3 rio grandes on ebay:( bastages....

That's a 24 fret PRS, but I've also played it with a MIM Strat, a Steinberger with ESP Elite's and several other guitars. I think the key to a decent SC in the bridge is to roll off some of the the top end with a tone control.

I haven't replaced a PU in about 30 years, with the exception of a beater Agile I travel around with.

v00d00blues79 · Post by **v00d00blues79** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 8:45 pm

Normster · Post by **Normster** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 10:35 pm

Looks great so far. Give some thought to how you're going to mount the chassis to the cab. Since the Bangkok chassis has the end caps too close to the ends, you'll need to route your mounting screws on the inside of the chassis. I'd allow for at least an inch from the front and rear to clear your cab corners. That would mean relocating your bias board. If you're going to mount from the front and back lip on the chassis, then it's a non-issue.

v00d00blues79 · Post by **v00d00blues79** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 10:41 pm

Well, one of the end caps isn't welded to the rest of the chassis anymore so i was going to go with front and back. But that is a way off, i have to finish up the circuit first before i get too crazy with the cheese whiz.

Thanks,

Andy

Funkalicousgroove · Post by **Funkalicousgroove** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 10:51 pm

there are such things as Screw-Mount Caged nuts, no worries! you'll just have to drill a couple holes. What are the dimensions of your chassis?

dogears · Post by **dogears** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 10:53 pm

Hi Andy,

Check your email....

v00d00blues79 wrote:Well, one of the end caps isn't welded to the rest of the chassis anymore so i was going to go with front and back. But that is a way off, i have to finish up the circuit first before i get too crazy with the cheese whiz.

Thanks,

Andy

jazzyjoepass · Post by **jazzyjoepass** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 11:51 pm

Voodoo, u another bangkok chassis builder!

I know we all have this problem with the slide switches - the holes don't line up. I cut a slit into the switch so that I can screw into the offending hole. Of course I gotta use screw/nuts to secure the switch - some switches are threaded so no nuts required. See my pics attached.

Norm, hope you're reading this too. Might help you in completing the cosmetic look of your ODS that you've been replicating.

BTW, I'm not sure if it's a good idea to wire up the ground lift switch. It can be dangerous when you lift the ground - there's no return path for AC current, so it find some other path .... possibly thru you!

I'm gonna just install an unwired switch in there for cosmetic purposes.

BobW · Post by **BobW** » Wed Mar 29, 2006 2:31 am

Voodoo, You amp looks great, nice workmanship. Changing a front panel pot may become quite a chore since they seem to be soldered directly to the buss. Where did you get your turret boards?

The ground lift switch can help reduce noise, but is neither NEMA or NFPA code approved. The AC return path is through the neutral/return line, not the ground wire or chassis. The ground wire (green) is a safety ground if the neutral/return (white) or the line/hot (black) wires become dislodged and connects to the chassis. The Ground wire then insures the chassis is still at earth ground potential. A ground lift switch is not needed if your layout is optimized to reduce noise and is shielded properly, but if it's not and you are sure the house wiring is correct, then the ground lift switch can help.

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