norburybrook wrote: ↑Thu Oct 29, 2020 6:51 pm
Lovely work there
Cream tolex is nice. From my own perspective Tolex covers a multitude of sins.....
I use glue and screw with 'bondo' epoxy body filler underneath that tolex knowing it doesn't matter as it will be covered. It's strong and functional.
Good luck with your build it's going to be great, I can see that already.
M
p.s. when I made my own boards I used 1/16 eyelets for the actual relay tab holes. I only ever did this once as I realised I could buy PCB relay boards for a few cents.... it was fun though.
Thank you!
Wow - yeah I had a hard enough time getting the 1/8 holes to line up. I can't imagine how the 1/16 holes would've looked if I did them. I could not find pre-made relay boards for the life of me. Where did you find them for a few cents? Or are you talking about the little board that you can plug the relay into and then fit that to the eyelet; like the little socket-thingys?
Hoffman does carry relay boards and everything else you need for channel switching. I've used them and like them a lot. They're easy to wire up and quiet.
PicknStrum wrote: ↑Thu Oct 29, 2020 7:28 pm...I had a hard enough time getting the 1/8 holes to line up. I can't imagine how the 1/16 holes would've looked if I did them.
I would think 1/16" eyelets, with the smaller drill, and having more clearance between them, would be a bit more forgiving.
Re the relay mounting, using eyelets for soldering the relay pins may work out, but my thought when I drew the eyelet board layouts was to drill small holes for the pins (no eyelets), and solder wires directly to the pins, then to the eyelets along the edge. DIP sockets could be handled the same way.
If you use pre-made boards, be sure you have the Comm/NO/NC connections transferred correctly.
Awesome - thanks for the links! I was really hoping the Tube Town shipping wouldn't be too bad but it estimated $30 to the U.S. - so I'm passing on that.
I may go the Hoffman route as there are a couple other items there I'd like. I should've realized the eyelets are gigantic compared to the relay legs but guess I just assumed that was my only option.
Also toying with the idea of soldering the relay directly to the eyelets, as Martin mentioned. My thoughts are to put something under the relay to raise it slightly off the board so I don't solder into the relay body by accident. I'd then curl the relay legs around each eyelet to try for a solid connection; that is if the relay legs are long enough. Who knows, I'll probably just get the Hoffman boards.
EDIT: I just reread your post Martin. I'll just drill new boards with smaller holes for the relays since I have some G10 left. I missed that the first time I read your post. I should've realized that you weren't putting eyelets there based on your layout - not sure what I was thinking.
PicknStrum wrote: ↑Fri Oct 30, 2020 9:23 pmEDIT: I just reread your post Martin. I'll just drill new boards with smaller holes for the relays since I have some G10 left.
The length of the relay pins is 3.5mm = 0.138, so you will need 1/16" G-10 board for those.
PicknStrum wrote: ↑Fri Oct 30, 2020 9:23 pmEDIT: I just reread your post Martin. I'll just drill new boards with smaller holes for the relays since I have some G10 left.
The length of the relay pins is 3.5mm = 0.138, so you will need 1/16" G-10 board for those.
That makes the decision for me. I'm going to grab the Hoffman boards
I'm making some progress. Pictures to come shortly.
One quick question: I went through the outer foil placement check with my oscilloscope. I'm getting definite repeatable results. The strange thing is that on some of the orange drops, there is a line that appears to mark the outer foil - on at least 2 of those caps, I'm finding the opposite side has the outer foil. I believe I'm doing it correctly - slightly pinching the cap with the probe lead on one leg and ground clip on the other. When connected and pinching with the smallest amplitude change, the ground lead marks the outer foil, correct?
Also, I'm going to get my final revision done on the BOM I posted here and add it as a reply to the #102 thread in the files section.
agreed, this 'used' to be a standard that basically nobody follows now, thus why the test concept is provided in many places because you can't accept that a 'marked' cap means anything anymore.
Ah - thanks for clearing that up. It was driving me crazy because I knew I was doing the test right. Seems like a waste of good capacitor ink to throw that line on there
Finally feels like some real progress. Boards populated (for the most part) and started wiring the front panel. I'm actually a further than this now with a lot of the wiring to the boards and front complete. Just took me a while to get these pictures up.
Of course, I missed some parts in my order (accidentally ordered a single ceramic disc for the B+/rectifier board instead of all 4). Trying to be as neat as possible but I'm nowhere near as neat in my wiring as some of you guys - although now that I have more wiring done, it does look a little neater than the below pictures. It's still better than my previous builds.
Man it gets really tight wiring the front switches! I was not expecting that.
Also, decided to try an audiophiler cap for the presence. Not really sure why I chose this; I guess I wanted to try and avoid ceramic through the audio signal and this is one of the few non-ceramic caps I could find in 2.2uF. Should be good as I have nothing to compare to anyway!
I did several things different than I've done on my 2 previous builds - no doubt a lot of you already do things this way but thought I'd list it out here:
1. Attached heaters to the sockets BEFORE attaching anything else. For some reason, I did it the other way around on my 2 previous builds and it's a nightmare. I see a lot of you guys do your heaters first - I think I did it the other way b/c my first build was from a Mojotone kit and that's how they advise you to build it.
2. I flew the heaters above the the sockets instead of laying them flat in the chassis corner. I've heard different theories on which is the preferred method (mostly over on TDPRI). I really prefer the way I did here for wiring and hopefully it will be better for reducing hum too. One of my previous builds has a bit of extra hum (faint but noticeable) and I plan to quiet it down starting with redoing the heaters. Curious what you all prefer: fly above sockets or tuck into chassis corner?
3. Tried the heaters in the drill chuck method for twisting - it's fantastic. I remember seeing this before I ever started building amps and I don't know why it took me this long to actually do it. Can't remember where I read this tip recently again but I won't go back. I'm using the teflon coated solid core wire from Apex Jr. and I don't think the 18 gauge can be hand twisted - it's pretty rigid.
Also got the filter board soldered down with leads so I should be moving to installing everything as soon as I finish up the smaller boards. I am waiting on a few more parts yet (mostly transformers) b/c I spread my purchases out a bit, so don't hold your breath on an update.
Most people will leave arial heater wiring until last because it gets in the way when wiring the other socket pins. If the heater wiring is run down on the chassis, it makes sense to lay that down first. Either way works (above the sockets or down on the surface), but most D-style builds follow HAD's wiring practices rigorously and run it above.
martin manning wrote: ↑Mon Nov 23, 2020 1:52 am
Most people will leave arial heater wiring until last because it gets in the way when wiring the other socket pins. If the heater wiring is run down on the chassis, it makes sense to lay that down first. Either way works (above the sockets or down on the surface), but most D-style builds follow HAD's wiring practices rigorously and run it above.
I was about to say the same thing...... ...... so i won't.....oh, i just did...... DOh!!!
Great job on the heaters, and a lot of attention to detail on this build, which will turn great for sure! I used to do the heaters first, as well and now enjoy doing these at last ("flying over" style).
There is one thing I am not sure yet as when it is best to do: the relays. I do these after the front panel is ready and while finishing the preamp board, but it is always a PITA. What is your take on this?
I guess I'm a little surprised that people typically prefer to do the flying heaters last. I've just had an awful awful time doing those last on my previous builds but I guess I'm going to see the other side of the coin on this one. Part of the problem on my previous builds was experience (obviously) and materials - the teflon wire is fantastic compared to the cloth stuff I've used in the past. Also, the belkin sockets have nice big pin holes so maybe that was my issue. I'll let you guys know how I fair working around the heaters instead of the other way around.
As far as relays, I'm not too sure when I'll do that. Even though it's a big chassis things get really tight fast. I do think I'll probably do the relays towards the end.
it was fun though.
