talbany wrote:I built an #002 SSS just like the schematic. Fantastic one of a kind MONSTER! however, I find the filters to be honestly somewhat useless for guitar! Some of the Lo filter settings are pretty much un-useable (unless I play bass). Some of the Hi filters give me either not enough highs or is annoyingly bright. In total depending on the cabinet, I toggle between 2 different Hi filter settings and 2 different Lo settings the rest of them I don't think I have ever used!
Tony, thanks for your input!
I am willing to build something that is musically usable and if the filters don't act on a frequency bandwith that suits the guitar, then I would rather add something else (no offense Martin). BTW Did you build Martin's version for the Filters ?
talbany wrote:
Although the SSS can handle the wider bandwidth the filters provide (due to the class B PI driver) I am not so sure a standard 50 watt BM output section can before the amp farts out and you hit the onset of blocking distortion. If it were me and I wanted more tonal flexibility I would insert a graphic EQ right in the loop you could build it right in the amp.IMO you would find the EQ more practical than you would the filters!..
About the blocking distortion effect, I have read about it, and I don't know enough about tubes Amp chemistry yet to see it coming. I am glad you shared your concerns!
The graphic eq is interesting, but I would probably go a simpler way with an an accent pot that allows to fine tune the amp's overall output to the venue you play.
talbany wrote:
I think the perfect UP setup would be a BM stack on 1 channel and either a Classic or a High plate Skyliner w/NFB on V1b on the other The Skyliner and or the Classic being slightly cleaner with the slightly dirtier BM channel using the BM/Marshall (EL-34) output section with the built-in loop the graphic EQ and internal switching for the 2 channels and the loop. This IMO would make for a killer pedal platform!
Funny enough, my initial plan was revolving around that idea as I have baught the trannies of a '66 Super Reverb and it can support the two channel..
I have read that some UP use EL34. Is the difference audible? I have a spare set of tubes at home and could switch my 6L6 on the HRM and rebias to hear the difference I guess.
talbany wrote:
BTW. If you want more preamp distortion axe the NFB loop on V1b since the loop makes for a cleaner preamp!
I know it does, if I can tweak the amp to have it break up earlier, then this LNFB would help if I need clean headroom
Fred.
Fred
IMO. If output tube distortion is what you want from the amp the 34's (with the Bluesmaster PI) will break up sooner and have a smoother transition into grind than the 6L's will.If a cleaner output section is your thing, I recommend going with 6L's and the earlier 3rd/4th generation style PI. Of course, tube choice is always subjective you can decide. This is the main thing I think about when considering an output section
I really wish I could say the filters worked great, you can get some pretty wild sounds from them. For me it turned into another feature that someone put on the amp that I and several others who played the amp never found any real use for. IMO the deep/Rock Jazz/Bright switch is all you will ever need.
I cannot remember the exact values I used for the filters. At the time I was working with Bill (Sebago amps) he ran the spice models and came up with the values that worked best on paper. I do remember him keeping the tolerances between each setting fairly tight!. This was before Martin posted his filter array.
I Hope this helps
Tony
" The psychics on my bench is the same as Dumble'"
IMO. If output tube distortion is what you want from the amp the 34's (with the Bluesmaster PI) will break up sooner and have a smoother transition into grind than the 6L's will.If a cleaner output section is your thing, I recommend going with 6L's and the earlier 3rd/4th generation style PI. Of course, tube choice is always subjective you can decide. This is the main thing I think about when considering an output section
I really wish I could say the filters worked great, you can get some pretty wild sounds from them.
Tony, again thanks for sharing. Opinions matter and experienced ones even more. I will definitly give a try to the EL34s, as I will try Martin's Filters.
The box idea has grown up on me. As I have an HRM amp with a Dlator, it would be cool if I could try the Filters on different amps and report then back to the Community!
Always thought you were smarter when you bounce ideas with others!
Schematic updated, I removed the filters as I will put them in a separate box.
Bluesmaster ULTRA no filters.png
I tried some values for the B+ rail, advices welcomed
And here is the layout.
Bluesmaster Ultra Layout.png
I am missing the relay power, and thinking of using the 6.3v heaters as source to power the relays.
I have not connected the relays with the footswitch either yet.
Let me know what you think.
Humbly,
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Looking good. Regarding putting the step filters in a box and experimenting with an existing amp and D’lator, I wasn’t suggesting that you make them an outboard accessory. My thought was you could determine which position in the circuit is best, and ultimately if you see them as a useful tone control. Then you can decide to include them in your amp or not.
Chassis ordered at seaside chassis, Terry is very professionnal.
I started building the turret boards. I realize that eyelet would have probably been better for this type of build. Oh well...
I decided to build two clean channels:
- clean bluesmaster with UP plate resistor values
- Tweedle Dee bright channel
A relay will allow to switch between the two channels.
Question:
- Do I need to add mixer resistors before the two channels enter the onboard D-lator? My feeling is the two channels will have different output signal Strength. Any though on this to share?
fred.violleau wrote: ↑Sun Feb 10, 2019 10:56 pm
Drilled holes in the chassis. It is always tricky to get the boards holes aligned with the boards. If anyone has a trick I am down!
I make my own boards and start with a full size board drawing. The drawing can be used as a drilling guide for the board. I include the mounting holes on my drawing also. So I can just tape the drill guide to the chassis, mark mtg. hole locations with a center punch then drill. They always line up perfectly. Here's a sample of one of my drill guides...
If you are buying boards predrilled then use the board as a drilling template ***BEFORE*** you mount any components. I like to do all my drilling from the top side of the chassis so that means I would tape the board in the proper position on the outside of the chassis with ***COMPONENT SIDE FACING DOWN***.
@sluckey, thanks for the advice! BTW, Iove that 6v6 plexi, Might be my next project!
@reeltarded, I wanted something where I could swap boards if needed, and templates I can reuse when building another Dumble. Hopefully it will stand. I already have mods on the turret boards
