#102 Started. Checking in

[martin manning]

Taylor, you might want to pull that input jack out and temporarily put it in from the front, along with the FET jack, and wire them up outside the chassis. Then turn the assembly around and mount it inside.

[ToneMerc]

Taylor, you might want to pull that input jack out and temporarily put it in from the front, along with the FET jack, and wire them up outside the chassis. Then turn the assembly around and mount it inside.

That's how I do it. I mount both jacks on a cardboard spacer template, wire up everything including the coax tail and then mount it as an assembly in the chassis.

TM

[ToneMerc]

I need to jump the top lug of the pab mini toggles right?

Wire those SPDT on/on toggles with a common buss across the bottom lugs.

TM

[amplifiednation]

Yikes I guess I have that upside down!

Martin I will do as you suggested I still need to wrap my head around that FET jack...no time today its the wife's b day!

This build has been a blast, it has been fun learning

[Structo]

Yeah, the switches back panel switches on the layout are slide switches.
The chassis takes toggle switches so you have to reverse the wiring.

[amplifiednation]

Thanks Tom. That made sense to me. I reversed the wiring to get the correct switch movement.

wired up the heaters, my cloth wired PT barely made it to the socket!!

wired up the power switch/iec

did a couple other minor things, tried to clean up the lead dress a bit.

i need to work on understanding the relays, they are a complete mystery to me. it's my own fault for not doing the research, so thats a task for this week.

i hope to have the PS board wired up by the weekend for maybe a sunday morning power up...we'll see.

[alvarezh]

Hi Taylor, it could be just me, but seems to me from the photos that your bright cap on the Master Volume is connected from the high side (signal input side) to the low side (grounded side), it should go from high side to wiper (center lug), the low side goes to ground.

Again, maybe you did it right and I am seeing wrong.

Also, there is a drip of solder stuck on the coax that runs from your input jack to V1 input grid, almost underneath the FET board. It could get loose with time, and who knows, could end up shorting something up. Please take it out if you will, it's making me nervous!

Cheers.

[amplifiednation]

Hi Taylor, it could be just me, but seems to me from the photos that your bright cap on the Master Volume is connected from the high side (signal input side) to the low side (grounded side), it should go from high side to wiper (center lug), the low side goes to ground.

Again, maybe you did it right and I am seeing wrong.

Also, there is a drip of solder stuck on the coax that runs from your input jack to V1 input grid, almost underneath the FET board. It could get loose with time, and who knows, could end up shorting something up. Please take it out if you will, it's making me nervous!

Cheers.

No my friend you are seeing it correctly! Good catch!

Yes the chassis is a bit of a mess as well. I was up kinda late doing that work late night and couldn't start the compressor to clean it out.

Thank you for your help.

Any suggestions for the relay transformer primary? Where is a good safe spot to feed it AC? Should I run a twisted pair off the power switch?

T

[Structo]

The green heater wires usually go to the terminal strip where your pilot light diode and resistor are, then two short runs to the power tube socket.

As for the relay primary, you run one leg of the relay transformer primary to the power switch and the other to the fuse.
If you look carefully on the #124 layout it shows it.

Also, double check your 1 Meg resistor on your input jack.
You have it straddling the tip contact, it should be on the lug side.

[amplifiednation]

The green heater wires usually go to the terminal strip where your pilot light diode and resistor are, then two short runs to the power tube socket.

As for the relay primary, you run one leg of the relay transformer primary to the power switch and the other to the fuse.
If you look carefully on the #124 layout it shows it.

Also, double check your 1 Meg resistor on your input jack.
You have it straddling the tip contact, it should be on the lug side.

Thanks Tom. I think that actually would have been a better way to wire the heaters...i have jumpers going back to the LED setup. Any downside in leaving it? I'm not opposed to changing the wires but if there is no difference I'll leave it.

I saw the way the small transformer was wired, but my primary legs aren't long enough to reach that far. Extend and heatshrink some leads?

And yes, I don't know where I got the idea on the resistor, I did the same thing on my last build. I am going to change it when i wire in the FET jack this week.

thanks for checking my work.

[Zippy]

Yes the chassis is a bit of a mess as well. I was up kinda late doing that work late night and couldn't start the compressor to clean it out.

Caution regarding using a compressor to clean a chassis - it can blow wire clippings and solder blobs into the wrong places. Better to shake, brush, or vacuum than use compressed air. It can be especially bad for blowing Stuff into transformers.

I'm enjoying your build thread. I'm sure many will benefit from sharing here.

[ToneMerc]

[quote="amplifiednationI saw the way the small transformer was wired, but my primary legs aren't long enough to reach that far. Extend and heatshrink.
[/quote]

When I've used the outboard PT that's what I've done to extend it to the rear of the chassis.

TM

[Structo]

There have been some very fine clones built here over the years but one of my favorite and one I use for reference is the #183 that UltraHookedOnPhonix built.

https://tubeamparchive.com/viewtopic.ph ... highlight=

[amplifiednation]

There have been some very fine clones built here over the years but one of my favorite and one I use for reference is the #183 that UltraHookedOnPhonix built.

https://tubeamparchive.com/viewtopic.ph ... highlight=

me too. that build is epic.

martin's low plate classic is also beautiful. The PVC wire he used gave such a great curvature to the leads. i'm struggling to get such nice shape using solid core.

https://tubeamparchive.com/viewtopic.ph ... 06&start=0

Zippy, that make sense on the compressor.. I use the vaccum too.

[ToneMerc]

Any downside in leaving it? I'm not opposed to changing the wires but if there is no difference I'll leave it.

I like to terminate the LED power using 26AWG all the way through from the socket. You can leave it as is, the method was good enough for HAD too.

TM