Copper Clad FR4 for Printed Circuit Board Creation
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tubedogsmith
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Re: Copper Clad FR4 for Printed Circuit Board Creation
you really need to solder them to the trace.
- glasman
- Posts: 1446
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- Location: Afton, MN (St Croix River Valley)
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Re: Copper Clad FR4 for Printed Circuit Board Creation
If you are using .062" board material an .093" long eyelet will overlap onto the copper and allow you to solder the eyelet to the copper. Usually as long as the eyelet is .030 to .040 longer than the thickness of the board you should be safe.dimitris wrote:How to you get electrical continuity between the eyelets and the coper traces?
Do you have to solder them at the under side of the board or just a tight fit is good enough?
Gary
Located in the St Croix River Valley- Afton, MN
About 5 miles south of I-94
aka K0GWA, K0 Glas Werks Amplification
www.glaswerks.com
About 5 miles south of I-94
aka K0GWA, K0 Glas Werks Amplification
www.glaswerks.com
Re: Copper Clad FR4 for Printed Circuit Board Creation
I mistakenly ordered .125" eyelets for .125" boards a while back and was wondering - would those be to long for .062" board?glasman wrote:If you are using .062" board material an .093" long eyelet will overlap onto the copper and allow you to solder the eyelet to the copper. Usually as long as the eyelet is .030 to .040 longer than the thickness of the board you should be safe.dimitris wrote:How to you get electrical continuity between the eyelets and the coper traces?
Do you have to solder them at the under side of the board or just a tight fit is good enough?
Gary
Re: Copper Clad FR4 for Printed Circuit Board Creation
The last two. HRM tone stack board and the PAB board.
This is a NON-Mega boost (ie standard PAB) board description.
I don't have a scale on the HRM board, but those BI trimmers are exactly 3/8" square.
After doing the PAB I could see that my PAB relay was backward on the HRM-102 schematic, so I fixed that.
This PAB relay board hookup will be boosted when the relay is energized. Also notice that the trace on the PAB board is totally different than that of the OD board. They even have a different number of holes.
Also notice that this PAB board is different than the one in #124. The traces on this board have been re-arranged (by HAD) so that both 22M resistors can reside on the board. That is, the appropriate traces are now side-by-side. On the #124 PAB board, this is not the case, so the other 22M has to be hung off the treble pot.
I believe, but am not certain, this same PAB board trace is also used for MEGA-BOOST by connecting it to the mid pot and ground.
This is a NON-Mega boost (ie standard PAB) board description.
I don't have a scale on the HRM board, but those BI trimmers are exactly 3/8" square.
After doing the PAB I could see that my PAB relay was backward on the HRM-102 schematic, so I fixed that.
This PAB relay board hookup will be boosted when the relay is energized. Also notice that the trace on the PAB board is totally different than that of the OD board. They even have a different number of holes.
Also notice that this PAB board is different than the one in #124. The traces on this board have been re-arranged (by HAD) so that both 22M resistors can reside on the board. That is, the appropriate traces are now side-by-side. On the #124 PAB board, this is not the case, so the other 22M has to be hung off the treble pot.
I believe, but am not certain, this same PAB board trace is also used for MEGA-BOOST by connecting it to the mid pot and ground.
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- glasman
- Posts: 1446
- Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2005 10:37 pm
- Location: Afton, MN (St Croix River Valley)
- Contact:
Re: Copper Clad FR4 for Printed Circuit Board Creation
They should work as long as you have a good staking tool to to set them.benoit wrote:I mistakenly ordered .125" eyelets for .125" boards a while back and was wondering - would those be to long for .062" board?glasman wrote:If you are using .062" board material an .093" long eyelet will overlap onto the copper and allow you to solder the eyelet to the copper. Usually as long as the eyelet is .030 to .040 longer than the thickness of the board you should be safe.dimitris wrote:How to you get electrical continuity between the eyelets and the coper traces?
Do you have to solder them at the under side of the board or just a tight fit is good enough?
Gary
I tried some .153 on 062 and that did NOT come out too well
Located in the St Croix River Valley- Afton, MN
About 5 miles south of I-94
aka K0GWA, K0 Glas Werks Amplification
www.glaswerks.com
About 5 miles south of I-94
aka K0GWA, K0 Glas Werks Amplification
www.glaswerks.com