YAOB (yet another one-zero-two build)

[aflynt]

I think I'm going to ditch the loop network and just remove the master bright cap entirely. The problem with the network is that without an additional volume control after the loop it's really not practical in the same way that a D'Lator is. With a bright cap on the master, the network in place and no D'Lator hooked up the tone is still a moving target with master volume level. Even if you choose caps to tailor the response to mimic the D'Lator perfectly you still loose the ability to have the same sound at any volume. I find that with the D'Lator I usually run the master high enough that the bright cap is pretty much out of the picture anyway. Personally I think putting the master bright cap on a switch (or pull pot) makes more sense than the network if you want to retain the option of having the original amp sound.

-Aaron

[Structo]

What I ended up doing with my 100w ODS clone is no network on the loop jacks and I have a 15pf or 30pf (can't remember which off hand) ceramic disc on the master volume.
Just adds the right amount of top end.
I believe that cap and resistor network on the loop jacks is to preserve some presence or top end when not using the D'lator.

I also use a 120pf bright cap on the volume pot with the bright on clean only mod.
This sounds good in the clean mode and is not too fizzy which I hate when a bright cap is too prominent.
It just adds the right amount of snap to the tone in clean mode.
So I can use a neck humbucker in clean that is not muddy at all.

And since I run both the volume and master pots up around 1:00, the bright caps have much less effect on the overall tone.

That seems to be a key factor in the overall tone, to have the gain and master pots up in the sweet spot where it sounds good no matter what actual volume (SPL) that I am playing at.

On the D'lator I run the Send at 12:00, the return at around 1:00 or above and the output pot acts as an overall master which at lower bedroom levels is around 12:00.

Since I always use the D'lator with this amp it works nicely.

Something else I have mentioned before is I use an Xotic X-Blender pedal between the TC Electronics G Sharp unit and the other pedals that are also in the Dumbleator loop.
I use the G Sharp for ambient reverb and delay that is always on, but very subtle for added warmth.
Sort of a loop within a loop, if you will.
The neat thing about the X-Blender is that it has a big fat blend knob that I can turn with my foot to adjust the wet/ dry ratio so when I play at different sound levels I can mix it in real time for the proper effect.

I wanted a Suhr Mini-Mix but couldn't afford that.
The X-Blender also has a volume, bass and treble adjustment to further adjust the sound. And a boost switch which I don't use.
I am very happy with it.
The other pedals in the D'lator loop is a EHX Stereo Memory Man, a Coolcat Chorus and a Ernie Ball Jr. volume pedal for swells.

Anyway, that's my story.

Pedal Board.
Left to right is EHX Stereo Memory Man, Xotic X-Blender, Coolcat Chorus, Ernie Ball Jr. Volume Pedal, Ernie Ball Wah pedal, Hardwire TR-7 Tremolo/ Rotary pedal, Amp control Pedal, BYOC Five Knob Compressor, Gyatone WR3 Auto Wah, and a Peterson StroboStomp 2.

Sitting on top of the amp is a TC Electronics G Sharp Rack unit and the Dumbleator

[aflynt]

The X-Blender and the bright-on-clean mod sound pretty neat, Structo. I've gotten used to the clean sounding a bit duller than OD now, though. I generally play the clean side harder and the OD side softer. The timbre is more even, and the overall volumes seem to balance better that way. I do pull the OD back a bit much of the time with a volume pedal in the loop, though.

I did get the new Power Transformer in and installed it Sunday evening. It's the Magnetic Components 100 watt Twin export transformer with a 345-0-345, and 320-0-320 secondaries (40-18042). I hitched it up with the 345-0-345 tap and am getting between 460 and 470 volts loaded on the power tube plates depending on bias and wall voltage, 480 unloaded. It sounds pretty much like the old PT did when I goosed the voltage up to 125VAC on the variac, but with one notable exception: the hum is now gone. Now I just have to trace down the hiss and then it'll be on to some other neurotic minutia that nobody will notice but me.

-Aaron

[vibratoking]

I believe that cap and resistor network on the loop jacks is to preserve some presence or top end when not using the D'lator.

I believe that network is there to substitute for the high-end rolloff that occurs with the Dlator and cables. So rather than preserving high-end it is taking some away to match.

After much tweaking, I have also removed the master bright cap. The amp sounds more organic and less hyped without it. I tried many values and never found one I liked. I also experimented with snubbers and finally settled on 130pF. My amp was too harsh without snubbers.

[aflynt]

I've finally gotten around to putting together a classic power supply board for this amp. I did a layout that fits the mounting holes and general wire locations of the Precision Supply so that it was a drop-in fit. I really like the #102 circuit better with the Classic Supply. It just seems to have a more fluid feel to it for some reason.

-Aaron

[aflynt]

I also decided to salvage my old Twin Reverb cabinet and convert it into a Dumble Style, oval back 2x12". The dimensions are quite a bit different than the original and it's made of pine, but it actually sounds really good with a pair of G12-65s. I sized the oval to be 60% cab width and 40% cab height.

I purchased some 1/2" Birch ply from Lowes and cut the hole with my Dremel. The guy from Lowes cut the panel about 1/4" too short so I just used some weather stripping on the top and bottom to get a decent seal. I left the panel au-natural. That's some high caliber wood working right there!

This rig lives in my music room so I just need it nice-looking enough for me to not be personally offended. I've got pretty low standards when it comes to visual aesthetics.

I'm thinking of trying to convert the amp to a low plate classic next. The idea is to try to approximate the original state of #102 and check out how that preamp configuration sounds. I just have to work up the courage to rip out those nice Electra MF7C plate and cathode resistors first.

-Aaron

[norburybrook]

Interesting, I'm about to start a 102 and have boards from Mike at Marsh amps and the power supply board only has space for 3 of the smaller caps.

what's the best way to do this in my case? can I piggyback the 4th cap and glue it on top of two others , or am I best mounting it off board somewhere like the original 102?


Marcus

[aflynt]

Interesting, I'm about to start a 102 and have boards from Mike at Marsh amps and the power supply board only has space for 3 of the smaller caps.

what's the best way to do this in my case? can I piggyback the 4th cap and glue it on top of two others , or am I best mounting it off board somewhere like the original 102?


Marcus

I suppose it depends on the chassis, but I'd mount it to the side like #124 in that case if I was using the one from CE Pedals. I'm using all smaller F&T caps so there's plenty of room for all 4. On my other builds I fit an extra 47uF for a built in D'Lator on the same size board.

-Aaron

[aflynt]

Here's a YouTube clip of the amp with the Classic Power Supply through the Twin Repro -> Oval Back conversion cab:

http://youtu.be/SwmxArrrp_M

From the video description:

My hybrid Anderson/Fender tele with Dimarzio Area T 615 & Area T neck pickups and Vilex Passive Mid boost through my #102 ODS Clone. The speaker cab is an oval-backed rework of a Fender Twin Repro loaded with Celestion G12-65s. The amp recently had the power supply changed over from the "Precision" type to the "Classic" type.

-Aaron

[bluesfendermanblues]

Aaron, that sounds great both the amp and your playing!

[aflynt]

Aaron, that sounds great both the amp and your playing!

Thanks!

-Aaron

[Synchu]

Sounds and looks great!
What's the tube complement?
I am now testing and rolling over 30 tubes through my Ctone Bluesmaster HRM and apart that new production ones are all over the place with the specs, except if you get tested, premium, selected, graded - whatever they
call it to get 30$ per tube (and rightly so - since those test actually within the specs), it seems that D styles are more so than other designs affected by the tubes choice.

Niki

[aflynt]

Sounds and looks great!
What's the tube complement?
I am now testing and rolling over 30 tubes through my Ctone Bluesmaster HRM and apart that new production ones are all over the place with the specs, except if you get tested, premium, selected, graded - whatever they
call it to get 30$ per tube (and rightly so - since those test actually within the specs), it seems that D styles are more so than other designs affected by the tubes choice.

Niki

Thanks!

All JJ tubes:
V1: JJ ECC83S
V2: JJ ECC803S (Gold version)
V3: JJ ECC83S (unbalanced)
V4-7: JJ 6l6 (old and no longer matched)

I have no idea what's in the D'lator right now. This isn't my main amp so it currently has hand-me-down glass.

-Aaron

[dcribbs1412]

Clips sound great Aaron
really nice chops
also cool cab conversion

This isn't my main amp so it currently has hand-me-down glass.
-Aaron

So what is your main amp?

D

[aflynt]

Clips sound great Aaron
really nice chops
also cool cab conversion

This isn't my main amp so it currently has hand-me-down glass.
-Aaron

So what is your main amp?

D

Thanks!

My main amp is the one I detailed in this thread:

https://tubeamparchive.com/viewtopic.ph ... system+box

I've been using that one for about a year and a half. It's a lot more user friendly and portable than this one. They sound pretty similar now though.

-Aaron