ODS Combo Cabinet

[muchxs]

And here we are. The black combo is shown with a grille protector panel in place for shipping. The corner of the blonde cabinet is shown to illustrate why I don't normally use chrome corners.

I'm off to the workshop to make more sawdust. I expect the next head will have the correct "late" rear panel and perhaps smooth blonde covering as seen on one of Robben Ford's heads.

Wow beautiful clean corner work - what kind of cutter are you using (knife, roller cutter, exacto etc.) and are you cutiing in place? Also are you using solvent based, water base (varieties of contact cement) or rubber based (tolex glue). to affix and does it maintain the corner tightness after some time goes by?

I'm using an ordinary Stanley retractable utility knife. I change blades frequently, sharper is better. Corners are cut in place. If anyone strips this cabinet there will be grooves in the corners. They're a harmless bi-product of the process.

I'm not going to re-open the "my glue is better than your glue" debate. What I use works, it stays put. I will say that there is no margin for error with these, once it's stuck it's stuck.

I have cabinets in circulation that have been around the block a couple times, cabinets I built back in the '80s when my technique was less refined. The corners stay tight. Hot climate, cold climate, amps transported from hot to cold it all stays in place. Of course if you hit the corner hard and repeatedly it will open up. Everyone's corners open up when subjected to repeated impact.

I spend what could be considered too much time on each covering job. That accounts for the level of detail. If I blasted these out as quickly as possible they might look a little different. Chrome corners are a quick way to hide snip and stick corners that would look ugly from 30 feet away without them.

[muchxs]

muchxs, excellent workman ship. Any build secrets you'd like to share?

Thanks!

My build "secret" really isn't a secret. I just do the best work I can.

[heisthl]

I'm using an ordinary Stanley retractable utility knife. I change blades frequently, sharper is better. Corners are cut in place. If anyone strips this cabinet there will be grooves in the corners. They're a harmless bi-product of the process.

I'm not going to re-open the "my glue is better than your glue" debate. What I use works, it stays put. I will say that there is no margin for error with these, once it's stuck it's stuck.

I have cabinets in circulation that have been around the block a couple times, cabinets I built back in the '80s when my technique was less refined. The corners stay tight. Hot climate, cold climate, amps transported from hot to cold it all stays in place.

No debate intended - I'm just trying to learn something. I have had issues with the solvent based contact cement causing "shrinkage" and the water based stuff has been guilty of popping open at the seams. I'm just on the hunt for something better.
I know what you mean about the utility knife - try a "carpet knife" much sharper and thinner blade - holds an edge longer too!

[muchxs]

No debate intended - I'm just trying to learn something. I have had issues with the solvent based contact cement causing "shrinkage" and the water based stuff has been guilty of popping open at the seams. I'm just on the hunt for something better.
I know what you mean about the utility knife - try a "carpet knife" much sharper and thinner blade - holds an edge longer too!

Carpet knives give me a horror rush. Are you talking about those double sided things? I worked briefly as a carpet layer. I never got the hang of not bearing down on the upper blade when I used it which results in a nasty cut. Cut fingers and playing guitar don't mix well.

There's a technique for dealing with shrinkage. Take your time. Don't work on a hot day. Tolex grows in the heat. Don't work on a cold day, glue doesn't work in the cold. 65 degrees to 80 degrees is ideal. Black will soak up heat if you work outdoors on a nice day.

Prior to applying glue to the back of your tolex: You may want to roll the cabinet on to the strip of tolex. Make an index mark on the back side of the tolex at the middle of each radius prior to the next panel. Pencil works fine on lighter colors. Ballpoint will come back to haunt you on lighter colors.

When your glue is tacked up and you're ready to stick the tolex carefully roll the cabinet on to your panel. Your index marks will indicate if you're stretching the tolex, use them until you gain enough experience to do without them. You have a couple hours to cover the cabinet, the tolex has 24/7 to return to its original shape once it's in place.

It's mostly technique. I've seen cabinets from other highly regarded builders that were done in a big hurry. If they don't have time to do it right the first time how are they going to find time to do it again when they have to do it over?!

[heisthl]

Thanks - every little bit helps, yes I was talking about those double sided things, you have to admit they're sharper and thinner albiet at the cost of probable blood loss and tissue damage.

[talbany]

Very nice work muchex..and not to rain on your parade but just to let everyone know that rough blonde tolex is much more pliable making it very corner friendly vers the standard smooth blonde and forget about a Taurus style or the marshall elaphant, especially purple sucks for corners.. I Love working with the rough tolex although it looks a little funny to me..



Tony VVT Amps

[muchxs]

Very nice work muchex..and not to rain on your parade but just to let everyone know that rough blonde tolex is much more pliable making it very corner friendly vers the standard smooth blonde and forget about a Taurus style or the marshall elaphant, especially purple sucks for corners.. I Love working with the rough tolex although it looks a little funny to me..

I should have shown the corners of the black cabinets underneath it. They're tight as well.

I don't know about rough blonde being more pliable, in my opinion it's a little thicker than smooth varieties of tolex. But it has that great natural cotton backing. The backing adheres to the material better so the corners don't de-lam if you have to work them.

The rough tolex emulates the '70s suede look reasonably well. Unlike suede it doesn't look like an old shop rag by the time the cabinet is a year old.

"Buggy Whip Taurus" and that goofy Mojo blue that was available a while back are my least favorite. I can get good results with the taurus but as you know it's nowhere near as forgving. The surface prep on the cabinet has to be perfect or any little flaw and dent will show.

That blue crap has a synthetic backing. Nothing sticks to it. I struggled though and ended up with this: