found a chassis in my storage place :D

[fred.violleau]

Hey Marcus,

Another great thread to follow !

If I may, having built 2 different D-lator inside my amps, 1st based on Normster's and second being an adaptation of the regular D-lator on a dedicated board, I must say that the second option is a lot easier to work with, I would not go the "point to point" route anymore.

Also, I really enjoy the bypass for the active FX loop and realized I should have built the version with the serial/parallel setting! I wish I could retain some of the "untouched signal" and throw it at the PI, because sometimes the D-lator may add too much compression on the original sound.

My 2 cents here!

Fred.

[norburybrook]

thanks Fred, this is my first foray into on board Dumbleator so I'm going with the Normster version with half of the wiring on the main pre amp board and half around the valve itself point to point.

I've just made the board, it's a tight fit

I'm debating the bright switches? I normally have them on so perhaps, as it's tight in there I might leave the bright caps on . Regarding bypassing the loop, how is that done?


I'm using the layout on Page 1 of this thread.

Tube town sent me wrongly labelled resistors! fortunately I tested them before putting them in the boards....that may set me back a few days!!!

IMG_20191030_175430.jpg

IMG_20191030_175437.jpg

M

[10thTx]

Regarding bypassing the loop, how is that done?

In a similar way that the overdrive channel is done with a mini-toggle when NOT using a relay. Look at the schematic I posted for you on the first page of this thread. It shows
the back of a toggle switch bypassing the OD channel.

There are a number of D-lator schematics in the Dumble files library. This is simply one of them. There are some different variations of D'lators on board.

With respect, 10thtx

[norburybrook]

thanks, that looks very helpful and with options for series or parallel too


I can see some experimenting happening here perhaps.....once it's working

I bought some 40 year old Holco's today too after reading Andy Fuchs talking about them [edit] they're NOS 70s Allen Bradley metal films, they look the same as Holcos


So I have a good mix here of NOS parts and new.

First time I've got proper J taper 1M CTS audio pots and original NOS 100k pots from Erwin too.


I've got a new Celestion BN12-300s coming for the combo , it's very light and apparently sounds like an EVM12 . I have a vintage EVM if I don;t like it, just fancy making this combo as light as possible as a grab and go thing, so I'll be using pine for the cab as it'a very light compared to 3/4 ply.


M

[martin manning]

For serial-parallel Claus (Bluesfendermanblues) found this configuration to be superior: https://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.p ... highlight=

[Colossal]

Hello Marcus,

You are off to a good start and some clever work with the socket conversions. I missed out on Holcos when they were around. I took them for granted and now they're gone

I do see a pot just behind V1. Is that for some trickery you're planning?

Cheers,
Dave

[10thTx]

For serial-parallel Claus (Bluesfendermanblues) found this configuration to be superior: https://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.p ... highlight=

I tried that very configuration you referred to and it added significant floor noise to my FX loop so I removed it. Perhaps it was lead dress or my layout or some other factor? Maybe
someone else will have better success with it & have it work great for them.

With respect, 10thtx

[fred.violleau]

Hey Marcus,

From the pictures you posted I think you could add the bright switch on each side of the pots.
I barely activate these and tend to set the treble with the strat and use the bright switch in front of the amp when using humbuckers.

I rarely use the bright switch on the D-lator, but I try to keep my cable runs short for the effects that I add in the FX loop. I am thinking of building a switcher just for the FX loop stuff...

And as suggested by Martin I am looking into fenderbluesman's 25k pot for the serial/parallel setup.

Fred.

[norburybrook]

Hello Marcus,

You are off to a good start and some clever work with the socket conversions. I missed out on Holcos when they were around. I took them for granted and now they're gone

I do see a pot just behind V1. Is that for some trickery you're planning?

Cheers,
Dave

Dave that's just the gain pot for the FET boost, it's normally a trimmer on the board but I thought why not stick it on the back this time? normally I Put it int he FET jack socket but this chassis layout doesn't have one

It's going to be tight in there but I can fit 2 bright switches in, probably have to remove the jack sockets first and do as much wiring as possible then refit them. Or I just add permanent bright caps to taste and leave it.

I'm going to build with the loop as it is on the layout first and then IF it all works fine start experimenting. I think I'll wire the bypass in from the word go, just need to find a space for another DPDT switch in there.


M

[Colossal]

Dave that's just the gain pot for the FET boost, it's normally a trimmer on the board but I thought why not stick it on the back this time? normally I Put it int he FET jack socket but this chassis layout doesn't have one
M

Ah! Very cool. That's a useful mod and will add some convenience and flexibility.

[norburybrook]

a day of steps forward and backwards.

Drilled the holes for the bright switches only to find the switches wouldn't fit as the valve sockets are too close to the rear!!! bugger!! dymo labels to the rescue!!

it's tight around the loop...I'm not sure i can fit a bypass switch in there even!

Had to remove V3 and reverse it's positioning so the components would fit as I had it oriented like the other valves and realised I had to swap it. After I'd thread locked all the bolts too.

finished off drilling all the mounting holes for relays and boards. It's going to be a tight fit getting that longer pre amp board and the power board and the side boards all to fit.

I've siliconed the CDE caps around the V3 to hold them in place after I took this pic, (trainwreck style) so that should have cured by tomorrow.


Calling it a day now, my brain hurts. I think this is the most complex amp I've attempted......3 relays..and an on board loop.

IMG_20191031_174658.jpg

IMG_20191031_174628.jpg

M

[norburybrook]

today I managed to completely do the input and FET boost. I biased the FET with Martin M's two 9v battery 18v method and found 1.8k was the magic value to get me to 9.4V which was close enough.

wired the relay for the switchable/normal FET with Martins method again and did all my coax cables.

IMG_20191101_180143.jpg

IMG_20191101_180156.jpg

I'm going to need some help on the OD relay wiring as if you look at the two layouts on page 1 they're very different. I'm basically doing the second gen hybrid with the on board loop but am having trouble working out how to wire the OD and the OD/clean relay as they're both different.


M

[martin manning]

you're going with separate masters as shown in the 2nd gen hybrid layout above?

[erwin_ve]

Marcus, Both layouts will work on the overdrive.
The 2nd gen hybrid has the master pot grounding different that's all.

Pay attention to the contact points of the relay pcb. They have a different lay-out compared to the 2nd gen hybrid lay-out.

Do you have a 10k resistor from bass pot to ground? I cant see it on the pic.
Erwin

[norburybrook]

Marcus, Both layouts will work on the overdrive.
The 2nd gen hybrid has the master pot grounding different that's all.

Pay attention to the contact points of the relay pcb. They have a different lay-out compared to the 2nd gen hybrid lay-out.

Do you have a 10k resistor from bass pot to ground? I cant see it on the pic.
Erwin

No I don't Erwin, you mentioned just having the cap across the pot. I'll stick one one then like the Skylne bass.


@Martin yes, I have a clean master and OD master.

The layout with the loop has the HRM board and that's confusing me as the OD seems different on that, there isn't a second coupling cap or the two resistors (voltage divider?) on the that layout compared to the 2nd gen hybrid.


M