boldaslove6789 wrote:
Jborders (Jason) who's supplied board sets for the amp garage built a clone of an Emerald Pro a while back AFAIK. Try searching it.
Hmm. I can't find any information other than Jason built a Emmy Pro clone and had some TR clone board sets for sale some time ago. No pics or layouts/schems, that I could find.
boldaslove6789 wrote:
Jborders (Jason) who's supplied board sets for the amp garage built a clone of an Emerald Pro a while back AFAIK. Try searching it.
Hmm. I can't find any information other than Jason built a Emmy Pro clone and had some TR clone board sets for sale some time ago. No pics or layouts/schems, that I could find.
Before you ask, yes he did a run of the green boards and I don't think he has any more. Guys bought them if you want a set try a "wanted" in the for sale section.
Jason is a great guy, I' bug him to make some more boards. (Jason if your reading I'd like two sets!)
boldaslove6789 wrote:
Jborders (Jason) who's supplied board sets for the amp garage built a clone of an Emerald Pro a while back AFAIK. Try searching it.
Hmm. I can't find any information other than Jason built a Emmy Pro clone and had some TR clone board sets for sale some time ago. No pics or layouts/schems, that I could find.
Before you ask, yes he did a run of the green boards and I don't think he has any more. Guys bought them if you want a set try a "wanted" in the for sale section.
Jason is a great guy, I' bug him to make some more boards. (Jason if your reading I'd like two sets!)
Eric
Eric, you bet me to it and yes those TR style boards have been long gone.
If not, maybe he'd be interested in sharing the files he used to create them? I cloned a LDO pedal using the Pad2Pad software he mentioned and had some good luck. Only 2 errors on the first run that I corrected with an xacto knife and jumper wire Worked out great!
If he doesn't share the files or even mind someone cloning his TR boards, I have PDF's of those "TR" boards. I still have those boards on hand so I'm not really interested in another batch, only his current D boards.
ToneMerc wrote:If he doesn't share the files or even mind someone cloning his TR boards, I have PDF's of those "TR" boards. I still have those boards on hand so I'm not really interested in another batch, only his current D boards.
Mike
Hi Mike,
The TR boards would be:
1. Power board PCB
2. The channel switching board which includes the relays
Correct?
The "D" board you are referring is the main preamp board including the PI?
Someone mentioned that the build is close the skyliner. I did some examination of the sections and they are very close with subtle differences in component location.
That said, I plan to dissect the build further. However I do not want to reinvent the wheel. Perhaps more experienced D builders may be able to let us know what if any current off the shelf PCB's produced by other people on this forum might be useful. Again I am new to the "D" thang so any input would be greatly appreciated.
ToneMerc wrote:If he doesn't share the files or even mind someone cloning his TR boards, I have PDF's of those "TR" boards. I still have those boards on hand so I'm not really interested in another batch, only his current D boards.
Mike
Hi Mike,
The TR boards would be:
1. Power board PCB
2. The channel switching board which includes the relays
Correct?
The "D" board you are referring is the main preamp board including the PI?
Someone mentioned that the build is close the skyliner. I did some examination of the sections and they are very close with subtle differences in component location.
That said, I plan to dissect the build further. However I do not want to reinvent the wheel. Perhaps more experienced D builders may be able to let us know what if any current off the shelf PCB's produced by other people on this forum might be useful. Again I am new to the "D" thang so any input would be greatly appreciated.
Decko, well before Jason started to offer Dumble clone boards for sale he sold off the main PS, bias/relay supply and OD-PAB relay/HRM combo boards from his "TR" project. You get better pricing when you have these pcb boards made up bulk verses one set, so he sold off the extras here on the forum.
His current "D" boards are kind of straight Dumble based and do not include any type of HRM board and the main PS board does not have a provision for an extra node to power a loop or reverb circuit. I've thrown out to Jason the idea of including an option for an HRM board with his Dumble offerings, but ultimately it's up to him.
AFAIK, he's the only person offering a full range of pcb boards for sale. I may offer some alternative main power supply boards for sale later in the year.
boldaslove6789 wrote:The Emmy Pro is basically a 50w Skyliner HRM with a Fender style reverb circuit and half a Dumbleator ( 2 12ax7's for Reverb (using only 3 of the triode's), the remaining triode is used for the half a Dumbleator).
Hi, all. I have an Emmy Pro and am curious about the "half Dumbleator" thing.
If someone could explain (in non-technical terms, since I won't understand) what
the 1/2 Dumbleator is in this amp; as opposed to (I guess) a full blown Dumbleator I'd be appreciative. Also, is there recommended procedure for adjusting the four pots inside (T,M,B, and OD I believe) for getting the most out of this amp? I realize that the other three pots are for bias adjust and PI settings. Also (again) how might I "check" the PI "setting"? The manual from TR simply says not to adjust this. Since it came to me used, I really have no way of knowing if this pot has been adjusted; perhaps it's not best or optimally set.
It sounds very good, but somehow I feel there's more in there.
Sorry for the long post. I'm not a builder--but have been keen on this style of amp for quite a while. Happy New Year.
boldaslove6789 wrote:The Emmy Pro is basically a 50w Skyliner HRM with a Fender style reverb circuit and half a Dumbleator ( 2 12ax7's for Reverb (using only 3 of the triode's), the remaining triode is used for the half a Dumbleator).
Hi, all. I have an Emmy Pro and am curious about the "half Dumbleator" thing.
If someone could explain (in non-technical terms, since I won't understand) what
the 1/2 Dumbleator is in this amp; as opposed to (I guess) a full blown Dumbleator I'd be appreciative. Also, is there recommended procedure for adjusting the four pots inside (T,M,B, and OD I believe) for getting the most out of this amp? I realize that the other three pots are for bias adjust and PI settings. Also (again) how might I "check" the PI "setting"? The manual from TR simply says not to adjust this. Since it came to me used, I really have no way of knowing if this pot has been adjusted; perhaps it's not best or optimally set.
It sounds very good, but somehow I feel there's more in there.
Sorry for the long post. I'm not a builder--but have been keen on this style of amp for quite a while. Happy New Year.
I'm sure some guys here will have some good advice on the trim pots. My approach would be to take a multimeter and document the resistance of each of these prior to tweaking. This way you can always get back to ground zero. Once you're confident you have their resistance values documented and can return a pot back to its original setting, it makes the task of tweaking to taste a little less daunting.
ToneMerc wrote:If he doesn't share the files or even mind someone cloning his TR boards, I have PDF's of those "TR" boards. I still have those boards on hand so I'm not really interested in another batch, only his current D boards.
Mike
Hi Mike,
I can etch the boards. I only have 1 oz copper double sided though. If allowed to use the artwork I can laser print to transparency and burn/ etch a few.
boldaslove6789 wrote:The Emmy Pro is basically a 50w Skyliner HRM with a Fender style reverb circuit and half a Dumbleator ( 2 12ax7's for Reverb (using only 3 of the triode's), the remaining triode is used for the half a Dumbleator).
Hi, all. I have an Emmy Pro and am curious about the "half Dumbleator" thing.
If someone could explain (in non-technical terms, since I won't understand) what
the 1/2 Dumbleator is in this amp; as opposed to (I guess) a full blown Dumbleator I'd be appreciative. Also, is there recommended procedure for adjusting the four pots inside (T,M,B, and OD I believe) for getting the most out of this amp? I realize that the other three pots are for bias adjust and PI settings. Also (again) how might I "check" the PI "setting"? The manual from TR simply says not to adjust this. Since it came to me used, I really have no way of knowing if this pot has been adjusted; perhaps it's not best or optimally set.
It sounds very good, but somehow I feel there's more in there.
Sorry for the long post. I'm not a builder--but have been keen on this style of amp for quite a while. Happy New Year.
Hi Bluesy,
Can you post a photo of your chassis showing the component side?
There are different era's of Two Rock amps and so different adjustments inside.
I assume yours has the HRM tone stack, OD trimmer and PI trimmer.
The HRM trimmers can be tricky to dial in if you are not experienced with them.
The OD trimmer can be set by ear but most of us set it around 20K-30K from ground.
The PI trimmer should probably be left alone as you need to get in there when the chassis is hot.
I guess what I am suggesting is don't try to fix it if it ain't broke.
You may just screw things up bad enough to where you will have to take it to a tech and most likely the tech will not be up on Dumble amps and won't have a clue as to how these trimmer pots are supposed to be set.
Re adjusting the PI trimmer, there are pages and pages of discussion about that here. This is one of the most succinct descriptions, from bluesfendermanblues, and edited by me for clarity:
Adjusting PI Trimmer
I use both the technical/analytic approach + fine tuning by ear.
1) Technical/analytic
a) Put a dummy load on 'speaker out'
b) Put a 1000 Hz signal into the power amp input (the 'return' jack)
c) Measure AC at the power tube grids (after the 100n or 22n PI coupling caps)
d) Adjust PI trimmer to get the same voltage at each grid (with 1 VAC at the power amp input, I get approximately 20VAC after the PI)
e) Make a small dot on the trimmer with a sharpie pen. (I’d use a non-permanent marker, as this setting will be different for different tubes – MPM)
Balancing the PI trimmer perfectly in regards to measured AC voltage will only take you part of the way to 'feedback nirvana,' since output tubes are never fully matched/balanced, and neither are OT's, you need to fine tune by ear.
2) Fine tune by ear
I use my guitar at a 'bright' (i.e. bridge pickup - MPM) setting and use very, very small increments around the dot on the trimmer to get max high end - it’s very easy to find the sweet spot, once you have a base (the small dot on the trimmer) to work from.
I find that above mentioned approach takes the voodoo out of PI adjusting.
Bluesfendermanblues (edited for clarity by MPM)
Worked out great!
