dcribbs1412 wrote:Clips sound great Aaron
does your dlator use a choke?
Thanks for info
D
Thanks D! It's just the Ceriatone C-Lator kit that I built a couple series-connected Belton Reverbs into. No choke. I just removed the .22 LNFB cap. I might try putting it back and replacing one of the bright switches with a switch that puts the 10meg off the grid to ground. Not sure if I'd need to change that 10M to two 4.7Megs and switch the junction to ground. Still thinking through the best way to do it with that layout.
bluesfendermanblues wrote:Sounds really good and very fendery (like The best of the fenderguru.com videos)
I'll give it a try in my amps.
Thanks! I need to go check out fenderguru.com now.
-Aaron
Last edited by aflynt on Sun Feb 01, 2015 4:12 pm, edited 2 times in total.
aflynt wrote:
I might try putting it back and replacing one of the bright switches with a switch that puts the 22meg off the cathode to ground.
-Aaron
cool idea
D
NOTE TO SELF: DON'T POST ANYTHING TECHNICAL WHEN YOU FIRST WAKE UP. That should be 10M off grid. I've fixed it in my post above.
I think I'll do it this way: Remove the .001uF and wire from the drive pot bright switch. Desolder and exchange the 10M connected to pin 6 with the .22uF cap. Run a wire from the junction of the two 10M resistors to the former drive pot bright switch common lug. Run a wire from the new "LNFB" switch bottom lug to ground (up is no LNFB which seems like it would make more sense as the "bright" position label-wise).
aflynt wrote:
I might try putting it back and replacing one of the bright switches with a switch that puts the 22meg off the cathode to ground.
-Aaron
cool idea
D
NOTE TO SELF: DON'T POST ANYTHING TECHNICAL WHEN YOU FIRST WAKE UP. That should be 10M off grid. I've fixed it in my post above.
I think I'll do it this way: Remove the .001uF and wire from the drive pot bright switch. Desolder and exchange the 10M connected to pin 6 with the .22uF cap. Run a wire from the junction of the two 10M resistors to the former drive pot bright switch common lug. Run a wire from the new "LNFB" switch bottom lug to ground (up is no LNFB which seems like it would make more sense as the "bright" position label-wise).
-Aaron
Agreed need a little caffeine first
can the loop just be interrupted(broken) or does it need to go to ground?
D
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It'll work fine when just breaking the connection, but I've found (at least in V1b LNFB switching) that grounding the resistor junction on the grid side of the cap eliminates popping when you switch it on and off. Not sure if it's as necessary when the LNFB is taken pre-grid-stopper like it is here, though.
aflynt wrote:It'll work fine when just breaking the connection, but I've found (at least in V1b LNFB switching) that grounding the resistor junction on the grid side of the cap eliminates popping when you switch it on and off. Not sure if it's as necessary when the LNFB is taken pre-grid-stopper like it is here, though.
-Aaron
Aaron, i run just the rtn side on mine, n use a rocktron replifex, Amp feeds replifex input.. out... to dator fx rtn, and dator out to amp rtn..many early two rocks only used a 1/2 buffered loop, my amp has REALLY opened up, n i`m just starting to enjoy it the way it was meant, i blv the first half of the dator was meant for really bad pedals... my 2 c MAY try n relay in/out that first half of dator when a dator is installed in amp! Pretty easy ta do..
Have now installed a switch for the loop lnfb in one of my amps - didn't hear a sound revolution when switching the lnfb off. - just a tiny bit of dynamics - not a lot. will play some more tomorrow.
bluesfendermanblues wrote:Have now installed a switch for the loop lnfb in one of my amps - didn't hear a sound revolution when switching the lnfb off. - just a tiny bit of dynamics - not a lot. will play some more tomorrow.
I did the switch today too. It's pretty subtle (more so than I expected), but for me it makes the amp respond in a much more natural way. Less compressed, less hyped, less fake. I think I'd be hard pressed to hear a difference with somebody else playing, though.
groovtubin wrote:Aaron, i run just the rtn side on mine, n use a rocktron replifex, Amp feeds replifex input.. out... to dator fx rtn, and dator out to amp rtn..many early two rocks only used a 1/2 buffered loop, my amp has REALLY opened up, n i`m just starting to enjoy it the way it was meant, i blv the first half of the dator was meant for really bad pedals... my 2 c MAY try n relay in/out that first half of dator when a dator is installed in amp! Pretty easy ta do..
jim@Omegaamps
Hello Jim! I'll have to give that a shot sometime. I'm thinking that the master would need to be much lower than I normally like it though to work with pedals. Probably just fine if your FX unit is line level or has an input level control. Probably also need to keep the send run short or it might get TOO dark sounding.
aflynt wrote:
I might try putting it back and replacing one of the bright switches with a switch that puts the 22meg off the cathode to ground.
-Aaron
cool idea
D
NOTE TO SELF: DON'T POST ANYTHING TECHNICAL WHEN YOU FIRST WAKE UP. That should be 10M off grid. I've fixed it in my post above.
I think I'll do it this way: Remove the .001uF and wire from the drive pot bright switch. Desolder and exchange the 10M connected to pin 6 with the .22uF cap. Run a wire from the junction of the two 10M resistors to the former drive pot bright switch common lug. Run a wire from the new "LNFB" switch bottom lug to ground (up is no LNFB which seems like it would make more sense as the "bright" position label-wise).
-Aaron
What about this method for controlling the LNFB in the C/D-Lator?
That looks like it would be good if someone wanted to experiment with different amounts of negative feedback. Seems like it would require an on-off-on switch to completely disable the LNFB, and I'm wondering if it would pop when you hit the middle position. Honestly, the effect is so subtle going from on to off that I wonder if different levels of LNFB would be perceptible at all in that spot. What I'm doing right now (described above) is working great for me, though.
I did a recording of myself playing stuff and flipping back and forth more for my own curiosity than anything. While I could definitely feel the difference when I was playing, the sonic differences when listening back seemed to be more a RESULT of me playing differently than the overall tonality of the amp changing. I'm not discounting the possibility that it's all in my head. That said, I still very much prefer no LNFB in the loop for just about everything.
That looks like it would be good if someone wanted to experiment with different amounts of negative feedback. Seems like it would require an on-off-on switch to completely disable the LNFB, and I'm wondering if it would pop when you hit the middle position. Honestly, the effect is so subtle going from on to off that I wonder if different levels of LNFB would be perceptible at all in that spot. What I'm doing right now (described above) is working great for me, though.
I did a recording of myself playing stuff and flipping back and forth more for my own curiosity than anything. While I could definitely feel the difference when I was playing, the sonic differences when listening back seemed to be more a RESULT of me playing differently than the overall tonality of the amp changing. I'm not discounting the possibility that it's all in my head. That said, I still very much prefer no LNFB in the loop for just about everything.
-Aaron
Aaron,
I've got this implemented in my amp, but don't recommend switching it dynamically; have it on a switch mounted underneath the chassis. It seems to affect 'feel' more than anything. I prefer the switch in the position where it connects only 1 22M in series with the cap. The amp feels more 'spongy' and responsive to attack; almost a breathing quality. This same configuration could seemingly be implemented in the C/D-lator for the same/similar effect - I think.
Oh, yes, an on-off-on switch gives the most flexibility.
I ordered some dual 100k pots to try out my idea of integrating the HF taper into the OD Level control. I've attached a layout that shows how I wired it up. I removed the HF Taper daughter board and the amount of hi cut now varies with the Overdrive Level setting. I accidentally ordered audio taper pots, but I actually am liking the increased control over lower gain settings. So far it's working exactly as I hoped it would. Now the overall brightness of the OD channel remains fairly constant at all gain settings.
-Aaron
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Aaron, have you noticed that the HF taper for the OD also rolls highs off of the clean side? I kept reading people mentioning that but didn't believe it and still can't figure out why. I simplified my solution and I just hang a 100pf or so cap from the OD volume to ground. I think I will put it on a 100k push pull pot. I do however like the ingenuity of your solution.
CW
I haven't noticed the HF taper rolling of highs on the clean channel, but then again I haven't really actively checked. I'll give a shot to rolling the OD level back and forth on the clean and listen for a change. That would be kind of a bummer if it was because the main reason for my "Integrated OD Level HF Taper" thingie was to get the OD and clean timbre to balance throughout the range of the drive level setting.
That should be 10M off grid. I've fixed it in my post above.