I just realized I really hadn't thought at all about hardware.
1. What size bolts are used on the following
- tube sockets
- standoffs
- ground lugs
2. Where can a guy get this stuff? Mouser? Or is a local hardware store the place to go.
I basically need enough hardware for an ODS100 including
nuts/bolts/lock washers
standoffs
Hardware
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
Re: Hardware
1. For sockets, I use 4-40 x 3/8".benoit wrote:I just realized I really hadn't thought at all about hardware.
1. What size bolts are used on the following
- tube sockets
- standoffs
- ground lugs
2. Where can a guy get this stuff? Mouser? Or is a local hardware store the place to go.
I basically need enough hardware for an ODS100 including
nuts/bolts/lock washers
standoffs
2. Standoffs... for what? Most of what I use are (expensive) brass spacers, #6 x 1/4" (MOUSER: 534-1457A)... but what I do is: insert a screw through the chassis abd put a nut on it before the standoff. If you leave out the nut (+washer +lock washer) use maybe a 1/2"standoff.
2. Ground lugs MUST be #6-32 x 1/2". No particular reason.
Hardware, based on personal experiences and observing others struggling with amp building, the #1 most forgotten and/or underestimated category! I try to get mine from local hardware stores, but for really cool stuff, such as truss head mount screws for chassis mounting, I rely on www.boltdepot.com.
Cheers,
Gil
-
skyboltone
- Posts: 2287
- Joined: Wed May 10, 2006 7:02 pm
- Location: Sparks, NV, where nowhere looks like home.
Re: Hardware
Tube sockets 4-40. Ditto ground lugs but only because I bought a hundred of them in #4. Next order will be #6 with a handful of #8 ground lugs for transformer mounting screws. For standoffs I found the motherload at a local surplus store and I have hundreds of #6 by 1/2" and #6 by .25" so I use them. I've also got 3/4" nylon standoffs with just a hole through. Sometimes I use #6 plastic screws and those when I want the board insulated. All that stuff can be bought at Mouser. McMaster Carr is a better deal on hardware all the way around but they won't have eyelets or ground lugs.
The Last of the World's Great Human Beings
Seek immediate medical attention if you suddenly go either deaf or blind.
If you put the Federal Government in charge of the Sahara Desert, in five years time there would be a shortage of sand.
Seek immediate medical attention if you suddenly go either deaf or blind.
If you put the Federal Government in charge of the Sahara Desert, in five years time there would be a shortage of sand.
Re: Hardware
1. If you don't have the 4-40, you can use a 6-32 on sockets too (don't forget the KEP nuts) and if you don't need a mount point for a terminal strip a 1/8 steel pop rivet (head inside the chassis) is a good alternative, especially if you going to have wires running across it.
2. 6-32 x3/8 with double KEP nuts for ground lug points. A good tip is to use #8 ground lugs - they work fine on the 6-32 and you can also put one on a transformer mount screw (again use a double nut).
3. The cheapest 1/2" 6-32 threaded standoffs you can find. use a 3/8" screw on the bottom and (like Gil said) a KEP nut on top and then thread on the standoff. Get some 1/4" 6-32 screws too for the top of the standoff.
4. When you order hardware don't forget some 3/8" internal tooth washers(pots and jacks) and and some 1/2" internal tooth washers (switches).
2. 6-32 x3/8 with double KEP nuts for ground lug points. A good tip is to use #8 ground lugs - they work fine on the 6-32 and you can also put one on a transformer mount screw (again use a double nut).
3. The cheapest 1/2" 6-32 threaded standoffs you can find. use a 3/8" screw on the bottom and (like Gil said) a KEP nut on top and then thread on the standoff. Get some 1/4" 6-32 screws too for the top of the standoff.
4. When you order hardware don't forget some 3/8" internal tooth washers(pots and jacks) and and some 1/2" internal tooth washers (switches).
Former owner of Music Mechanix
www.RedPlateAmps.com
www.RedPlateAmps.com
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Luthierwnc
- Posts: 998
- Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 10:59 am
- Location: Asheville, NC
Re: Hardware
I'm also fond of pop rivets for stuff you know you won't move like sockets and terminal strips. The steel ones are also very handy when you make design changes in mid-build and need another solder lug on the board.
You can get terminal lugs in the electrical section of home improvement stores. Usually they are insulated. Pull that off, crush the sleeve on your wire and then solder it.
Don't forget ordinary washers for bushing out mismatched holes. Usually transformers have elongated openings to align easier with chassis holes. A plain zinc (or stainless if you are feeling sporty) washer should go between the kep washer or toothed washer and the trannie flange. I have a couple yogurt tubs of all the weird washers, nuts, insulators, etc you accumulate when doing this. Don't throw anything away because the day after you'll be rummaging for a replacement.
As for stuff you won't know you need until you do, Sears has 11/32" nut drivers. Almost nobody else does. For #8 nuts, you gotta have one. You'll want a 10mm wrench or driver for the small Alpha pots and an 11mm one for the 24mm pots. I must have half a dozen 10mm/12mm open-end wrenches because they come with the installation kits for lots of gizmos. 11mm is a different animal. That or a spare 10mm if you are handy with a Dremel grinder. Avoid the temptation to use plyers.
Have fun, Skip
You can get terminal lugs in the electrical section of home improvement stores. Usually they are insulated. Pull that off, crush the sleeve on your wire and then solder it.
Don't forget ordinary washers for bushing out mismatched holes. Usually transformers have elongated openings to align easier with chassis holes. A plain zinc (or stainless if you are feeling sporty) washer should go between the kep washer or toothed washer and the trannie flange. I have a couple yogurt tubs of all the weird washers, nuts, insulators, etc you accumulate when doing this. Don't throw anything away because the day after you'll be rummaging for a replacement.
As for stuff you won't know you need until you do, Sears has 11/32" nut drivers. Almost nobody else does. For #8 nuts, you gotta have one. You'll want a 10mm wrench or driver for the small Alpha pots and an 11mm one for the 24mm pots. I must have half a dozen 10mm/12mm open-end wrenches because they come with the installation kits for lots of gizmos. 11mm is a different animal. That or a spare 10mm if you are handy with a Dremel grinder. Avoid the temptation to use plyers.
Have fun, Skip
Last edited by Luthierwnc on Fri May 30, 2008 6:05 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Hardware
Gents, awesome info, thank you.
Now, a few more small problems:
1. The OT will, unavoidably, sit atop at least a couple screws for my boards. It's a stand-up job that would normally sit flush with the chassis. My question is this: can I put it up on washers to leave room? I'd rather not mess with trying to countersink the holes.
2. Those of you who use backing boards, do you keep both boards on the same screw? washer in between? standoff of some kind?
3. Does it matter whether choke and OT leads go through the chassis together?
4. Do KEPS nuts take the place of both nut and lock washer or would you still need a lock washer along with the KEPS nut? Where would a guy be best to use or not use KEPS nuts?
5. Will 220uF @ 300v work ok for first filter stage?
6. WHY DIDN'T I JUST BUY A FLIPPIN FUNK CHASSIS AND BOARDS??
Now, a few more small problems:
1. The OT will, unavoidably, sit atop at least a couple screws for my boards. It's a stand-up job that would normally sit flush with the chassis. My question is this: can I put it up on washers to leave room? I'd rather not mess with trying to countersink the holes.
2. Those of you who use backing boards, do you keep both boards on the same screw? washer in between? standoff of some kind?
3. Does it matter whether choke and OT leads go through the chassis together?
4. Do KEPS nuts take the place of both nut and lock washer or would you still need a lock washer along with the KEPS nut? Where would a guy be best to use or not use KEPS nuts?
5. Will 220uF @ 300v work ok for first filter stage?
6. WHY DIDN'T I JUST BUY A FLIPPIN FUNK CHASSIS AND BOARDS??
Re: Hardware
1.Yesbenoit wrote:Gents, awesome info, thank you.
Now, a few more small problems:
1. The OT will, unavoidably, sit atop at least a couple screws for my boards. It's a stand-up job that would normally sit flush with the chassis. My question is this: can I put it up on washers to leave room? I'd rather not mess with trying to countersink the holes.
2. Those of you who use backing boards, do you keep both boards on the same screw? washer in between? standoff of some kind?
3. Does it matter whether choke and OT leads go through the chassis together?
4. Do KEPS nuts take the place of both nut and lock washer or would you still need a lock washer along with the KEPS nut? Where would a guy be best to use or not use KEPS nuts?
5. Will 220uF @ 300v work ok for first filter stage?
6. WHY DIDN'T I JUST BUY A FLIPPIN FUNK CHASSIS AND BOARDS??
2.Backing board lays right under eylet board no spacers same mounts, you want to force the boards to be sqeezed together.
3. Yes - not a good idea to share.
4.Yes, no lock needed - use them everywhere
5.Yes
6. ???????
Former owner of Music Mechanix
www.RedPlateAmps.com
www.RedPlateAmps.com
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skyboltone
- Posts: 2287
- Joined: Wed May 10, 2006 7:02 pm
- Location: Sparks, NV, where nowhere looks like home.
Re: Hardware
As heisthl said on everything but just to be clear, that's two of those caps in series for 110uf at 600VDC.benoit wrote:Gents, awesome info, thank you.
5. Will 220uF @ 300v work ok for first filter stage?
The Last of the World's Great Human Beings
Seek immediate medical attention if you suddenly go either deaf or blind.
If you put the Federal Government in charge of the Sahara Desert, in five years time there would be a shortage of sand.
Seek immediate medical attention if you suddenly go either deaf or blind.
If you put the Federal Government in charge of the Sahara Desert, in five years time there would be a shortage of sand.
Re: Hardware
Thanks Dan, I totally forgot about them being in series. It's been a long weekskyboltone wrote:As heisthl said on everything but just to be clear, that's two of those caps in series for 110uf at 600VDC.benoit wrote:Gents, awesome info, thank you.
5. Will 220uF @ 300v work ok for first filter stage?
