Dumble 50W 3rd gen

[Nikk]

Hi I know the feeling when it is dark also it is such a pain still it comes to us all .

I have converted it to JPG this may be better .


Nikk

124 JPG.jpg

[pompeiisneaks]

Yes from my view, I can zoom way in and still view the details. much better. I'm not the best to critique things, though, just wanted to give feedback that it's now very readable.

~Phil

[ijedouglas]

I omit the capacitors on the switches as they are also on the footswitch. Take a look at the layout for #183. You can use the same wiring for your #124 switches

[donvan]

Hi Thanks for the post. I had it wired as per the Layout but it was working no idea why it was correct to the layout but is this actually correct. The capacitors are grounded on the PAB and the OD on the schematic which makes sense the layout however are not the same .

Dont pins 1+2 and 4+5 need to be connected on the XLR to power the relays?

The purpose of capacitors C40 and C41 is to eliminate a pop when you switch OD and PAB on and off.

Based on your layout no wires need to go to the XLR in order to power the relays. So if you are only missing the wires to the XLR then the manual PAB and OD switches should work.

[donvan]

I omit the capacitors on the switches as they are also on the footswitch. Take a look at the layout for #183. You can use the same wiring for your #124 switches

The only issue I see with this approach is that if you unplug the footswitch you will not have the capacitors that eliminate the switching "pops" - so you will get a pop when you manually switch OD and PAB on and off.

[ijedouglas]

I've never noticed it

[Charlie Wilson]

Hi Thanks for the post. I had it wired as per the Layout but it was working no idea why it was correct to the layout but is this actually correct. The capacitors are grounded on the PAB and the OD on the schematic which makes sense the layout however are not the same .

Dont pins 1+2 and 4+5 need to be connected on the XLR to power the relays?

The purpose of capacitors C40 and C41 is to eliminate a pop when you switch OD and PAB on and off.

Based on your layout no wires need to go to the XLR in order to power the relays. So if you are only missing the wires to the XLR then the manual PAB and OD switches should work.

I think Martin proposed the idea that the caps were there to help with voltage spikes. I never really notice much of a pop with or without the caps. I am still trying to figure out what is "3rd Gen" about this amp. This is a lowplate skytiner, right?
CW

[martin manning]

I think Martin proposed the idea that the caps were there to help with voltage spikes.

Arc suppression for the switch contacts is what I think they are there for. I wouldn't think there would be any pop from these as they are not part of the audio circuitry.

[Nikk]

Hi Thanks for the post. I had it wired as per the Layout but it was working no idea why it was correct to the layout but is this actually correct. The capacitors are grounded on the PAB and the OD on the schematic which makes sense the layout however are not the same .

Dont pins 1+2 and 4+5 need to be connected on the XLR to power the relays?

The purpose of capacitors C40 and C41 is to eliminate a pop when you switch OD and PAB on and off.

Based on your layout no wires need to go to the XLR in order to power the relays. So if you are only missing the wires to the XLR then the manual PAB and OD switches should work.

I saw that and guessed that was the case but the 124 layout I still think is wrong that was the source of my confusion the XLR connections only go to the one pin on the 124 layout and bridge both on the 183 . thanks that is clearer to me now.

Nikk

124 JPG.jpg

[norburybrook]

I've never used the caps and non of my amps have ever popped


M

[talbany]

Double

[talbany]

Hi Thanks for the post. I had it wired as per the Layout but it was working no idea why it was correct to the layout but is this actually correct. The capacitors are grounded on the PAB and the OD on the schematic which makes sense the layout however are not the same .

Dont pins 1+2 and 4+5 need to be connected on the XLR to power the relays?

The purpose of capacitors C40 and C41 is to eliminate a pop when you switch OD and PAB on and off.

Based on your layout no wires need to go to the XLR in order to power the relays. So if you are only missing the wires to the XLR then the manual PAB and OD switches should work.

. I am still trying to figure out what is "3rd Gen" about this amp. This is a lowplate skytiner, right?
CW

C.W
I agree.
The words 3rd Gen should be nowhere near this layout..

Tony

[Nikk]

Hi all, I am looking for a little advise . I am 99% there with the build sounds great I still however have the issue with the master and presence controls . What i have noticed is that when the control is turned there are specific point where the controls make a whooshing or radio like noise for a small section of the rotation and then it goes . Also I have a current limiter and Variac in the power supply and the bulb glows faintly when one of these positions are found on the MV or Presence controls and goes away as you move off of that point . I have done other work that has reduced the noise 75% or more but again i am stuck I think there may be oscillation at specific points but I dont know the best way forward . I did try a higher value resistor on the input to V1 P7 and a 0.01uf capacitor between the input and ground but this did not seem to make any difference .Do you think it may be worth trying this again now I have good improvement of the issue.
The amp is useable now just not finished to me . The last thing is I am using cheap ebay output valves I have some better ones on order I dont think this will make any difference to be honest and they were more sacrificial as I didnt want to put good tubes in there until I had it working and was sure it would not fry the valves .

The early worm gets eaten by the bird ?

Nikk

[Nikk]

I am lookin also at the footswitch I have a Trinity amps footswitch but this seems to be counter to the schematic i have . looking at the attached what would be the best way to go just have the switches in the footswitch in parallel with the amp and use pins 1 and 5 to power the LED's not sure why this is confusing the hell out of me .

Nikk

d1.pdf

d1.pdf