Plate voltages on V1 &2 can be rather subjective.. The earlier 2nd & 3rd gen amps have a tendancy to be rather bright and using the 3 resistor (filter OD entrance network) can have a kind of beam y mid-range quality.. I have many here tell me it can be a bit harsh sounding at times (Pay close attention to lead dress on these amps)..The lower voltages helps with the brightness and slows the attack some and gives the amp more of an organic feel for me..(I find 180-185 to be perfect for my style)telentubes wrote:Marcos,
Initially my B+5 was 263V, and V1 was around 170V. the amp sounded great there, with a nice looseness about it. Just thought I'd try the higher voltages that were recommended by a few folks.
One thing I'm curious about is raising the cathode caps on V1 and V2 to at least 10uf. This is discussed a bunch in some "grailtone" threads. Good reading at any rate, https://tubeamparchive.com/viewtopic.ph ... rly++grail,
and one of the links from that thread... https://tubeamparchive.com/viewtopic.php?t=3615
Anyone tried the 10uf to 25uf values and liked the results?
I'm also interested in trying "high plate" for just the OD. Anyone done this to one of theses 50 Watts?
As an aside, I just found these 25uf/25V Spragues on sale for $1.70 at Newark...
http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/produc ... sku=18F852
Same thing with the bypass caps..(subjective) Although you have to be a bit more careful when raising the values in the lower power 50 watters..
My advice is to get out the alligator clips and clip in a few values first.. Sweep through different volume levels, gain settings and switching positions along the way to make sure that cap or caps work with all or most of the settings you like..Then solder them in..Most important have fun..
Tony