WOOD(?) Circuit Boards

[Luthierwnc]

I have a love affair with wood -- but it is a temperamental mistress.

My first classical guitar making teacher used to iron his back sets on the cotton setting to pre-stress the wood. If it was going to crack, he wanted to know it before he got too far. I've never done that but this winter, one perfectly-quartered Indian back was in the back-seam jig and popped open like a can of cat food. When I lined up the pieces to see if I could coax them back together, there was a 2mm gap on one end. Even if I could have crushed the plates back, it wouldn't stay that way. The little piece will be headplates. The bigger piece will likely be the front cab veneer for the 100-watter I'm making now. Fortunately, you usually have a few extra backs because of breaking sides bending the cutaways. sh

[Aurora]

I most certainly see myself as an electronics pro, after 34 yrs in design, prototyping and service. I have little experience with guitar amps, except for repairs back in the 70s. I've been peddling HiFi for ever.
Wood should NOT be used for boards, and explicitly NOT in HV circuits like guitar amps, no matter how cool it may look!
It is not only the ability to withstand voltage, but what may/will happen when you DO get arching or hot/burnt components........FIRE!!!!

Formica and the likes are OK as such, but all circuit boards should preferably be flame retardant. FR-4 fiberglass boards are ( FR) and can be bought in various thicknesses. I really don't know if Garolite is FR..?? Anyone?

The only reason I can see for people having used wood, formica etc. is that it was cheaply available, - or maybe just for kicks.....
I do not believe it has tonal issues, except maybe for bad ones! Damp wood boards will play havoc with your circuit!

[Luthierwnc]

Here is a good primer on Garolite:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#garolite/=6s9id3

Hoffman sells the G-10 1/8" boards.

Note: do not attempt to cut this with a bandsaw. It refuses to track the line and ruins the blade instantly. It also throws sparks when you cut it on a table saw. I use a radial saw with a fine X-cut blade and clean the sawdust out of the dust collector chute first. A Dremel cut-off wheel is good for little cut-outs. Wear a mask. The drill press has a collection chute too. Cutting Garolite is the last thing I do for a couple hours in the shop so the particles settle. sh

[Structo]

I used a hack saw on the G10 from Hoffman before.
What a pain in the ass that was!

A wet saw is probably the best tool to use. Cuts well and keeps the dust down.

['67_Plexi]

Wood is a dreadful insulator, it's takes on moisture really easily, it contains various natural resins and it also sets on fire pretty easily. All things that are not really what you want inside a piece of electrical equipment. Why would you use formica, it's awful to work with.
There are reasonably priced excellent alternatives that are superb insulators, don't absorb moisture, are designed for the job and are fire-proof. Garolite is the material of choice, however only the flame proof variety is intended specifically for electrical use.

There's no mojo in moisture on a circuit board.