Tube Amp Archive

Bisquits! I like them!

Makes aligning the edges during assembly very easy. Much quicker than dovetails.

I forgot to cut the cutout on the top for the controls until after I glued up the box. Dumb. Had to use a jigsaw.

Been thinkin' about getting a "bisquick joinah" for some time. They range in price and quality. Can't afford the Festool domino. Most popular brands come in at about $200. What are you using? Do you think there's much of a difference between brands? Home Despot is selling their Ryobi for $99. I saw a Porter Cable on CL for $80 and I suppose there could be some wiggle room.

What you show there looks perfect! And I like the walnut (?) insert.

what's the advantage of this over say screwing and gluing or dowels?

nice cab


Thank god for tolex is all I can say for my cab builds



Marcus

Phil, I used a Porter Cable model I inherited from pop-in-law.

Marcus, avoiding metal fasteners is a common woodworker’s goal. Also means there are no holes to fill, and no brads or screws to worry about when you router (is that a verb?) the edges. Dowels would be equivalent to biscuits, I think.

I have a cheap biscuit jointer from Harbor Freight which works great, simple as make your mark line up the cutter and your done.

Strong joint but there are plenty of other ways to get the job done.

Mark

Looks good bro. Dado is the way to go on that crossbar for sure. Did you make a back panel?

Nice one xtian !

Funny enough, I am planning on building my own head cab. I have two questions for you :

1- I noticed you did not drill the holes for the screws that will hold the chassis. How do you plan fixing the chassis ?

2- If you plan on covering the nice pine cab with tolex, how much do you add on the panel dimension to have enough room on the inside for the chassis and the tolex. My chassis is 19 inches. 1/16th on each side?

Looking forward to see the end result !




Fred, learning everyday!

Fred,


They're the two most difficult things to get right I've found



Marcus

Marcus, looking at your production, you seem to have found a good recipe thought!

Fred, learning everyday!

Fred, I typically assemble, route and sand a cabinet before placing the chassis. I want to see exactly how it lines up, and fine tune the position. Then I carefully measure and mark the top surface for drilling. In this case, the chassis requires 3.5” screws, which I will have to special order (McMaster.com) on Monday.

Vinyl is next, and you need to leave closer to 1/8” clearance on each side.

You guys should be drilling your mounts before you even glue up the cabinet. 10,000 times easier. Plus you can use a backer board and not get tearout on the bottom of the hole.

If you use fender style through chassis cage nuts then it's a lot more forgiving I've found. I built a wonderland with one of Taylors chassis drilled like this and it was a lot easier to mount.

Having rivnuts on the edge of those Dumble chassis means there's not a lot of room for error.

I think Talyor is probably right in saying do it before the cab is glued together

he should know, he's the king of the Dumble head cab

M

amplifiednation wrote: ↑Sun Nov 12, 2017 3:05 amDid you make a back panel?

Just did. 2" forstner bit for the radius, jigsaw to complete. Planed down to 1/2" thick.

Looks good!!

I've been using bisquits for a while now, and have had no problems, even with speaker cabs. I also figure mine with the top and bottom over the sides, thinking the chassis weight will be distributed while sitting.
My machine is a DeWalt I traded from a friend.