Tube Amp Archive

Hi Guys,

I received a beautifully built cabinet from Rj for my New express built documented in the trainwreck discussion pages. However in my eagerness to complete the job, I decoded to treat the wood with a oil based funiture polish/restorer that seeps into the wood and protects.

Untreated
[IMG768]http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/ ... b86aef.jpg[/img]

and after 3 coats of oil (left to soak for 48 hrs between each coat and sanded between coats with 1000 grit paper)
[IMG768]http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/ ... 57cc7a.jpg[/img]

I have since researched, and decided that Danish Oil finish is the way forward. It is easy to apply and dries very hard. It is also "chip & scratch" resistant.
My question to members is:
Will the Danish Oil "bond" to a cab that has been treated with an oil based polish?
Or do I have to remove the previous treatment with thinners/solvent before applying Danish Oil?

I don't know the answer to the question about if it will effect it or not. But I wanted to mention that may help others or DIY people.
I tried many different oils or rub in finishes. And the last one I used was the Tru Oil. [Birchstone Casey]

By FAR, the easiest to use, and best finish or outcome has been using the Tru Oil. Which is not expensive, and can get at sports stores or gun shops. I think it shows wal mart carries it probably in the gun section.
As its labeled for gun stock finish.

I doubt I would use anything else. It does take some time, and light sand between coats, and more coats make it really nice.. but well worth it in the end. As with any wood finish, the prep is also very important.

Thank you for that. The "expert" I spoke with, recommended Danish oil over True oil, due to its strength.

Am I the only one who hates using tru oil?

My issue is that its a self catalyzed finish. This means that new layers don't melt into previous layers, and this becomes very obvious when you buff through a layer.

The easiest finish ever is Minwax Tung oil.

I guess technically its a wiping varnish.

John

Cantplay wrote:Am I the only one who hates using try oil?

My issue is that its a self catalyzed finish. This means that new layers don't melt into previous layers, and this becomes very obvious when you buff through a layer.

The easiest finish ever is Minwax Tung oil.

I guess technically its a wiping varnish.

John

I'm with you on that part. I only use Tru Oil now specifically if I'm not going to buff it out. I did a guitar body with it once (ash), and the witness lines were terrible. Took forever to get an acceptable result.

Cantplay wrote:Am I the only one who hates using try oil?

My issue is that its a self catalyzed finish. This means that new layers don't melt into previous layers, and this becomes very obvious when you buff through a layer.

The easiest finish ever is Minwax Tung oil.

I guess technically its a wiping varnish.

John

That hasn't been my experience.
I have applied several coats a day for three days or so.
Never had a delamination, seemed to bond fine.

I have used it on guitar necks, cabinets, furniture, etc.

However I do burnish the finish with steel wool at the start of each day, so this also helps the bond.

I used Tru Oil on my one and only guitar build (see my avatar) and it worked out very well. I too used the 0000 steel wool trick, maybe that makes a difference?

I am also fond of Behlens rockhard table finish, if you don't more Ind a slight amber coloration.

John

Thanks guys,
Received my Danish oil today and will start the process and post pics of the result. Will definitely do the steel wool and fine great paper procedure

Fine grain paper in between coats

This is what the cab is looking like after a few coats. Will keep going, but so far, it is looking really good. 1000 grit sand paper in between coats, and it becomes as smooth as a baby's bum!

[IMG1024]http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/ ... clrxtr.jpg[/img]
[IMG1024]http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/ ... bplv8m.jpg[/img]

will post finished and assembled, when done

Looks good so far and I hope it works for you.
I worked in a furniture restoration shop when I was a teen and the only finish we used was Tung oil or shellac, so that's about all I use now.
I've covered other oils with Danish but only after a lot of sanding so I can't speak to the issue of adherence other than that.

Well it looks like the pref of the previous oil has worked. Leaving to soak for a week, and cleaning with white spirits. Adheasion seems great.

A report.
Amp is now finished. I had left the oil in previous pics on too thick. It didnt finish well. So sanded the excess off and re-applied with numerous thin coats. Decided I want a more natural wood look. The cherry turned out to be a very interesting in nature. Lots of "birds eye" & "flame" kind of quality.

Very chuffed. Thanks for all the help and advice guys.

[IMG768]http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/ ... pwc4ly.jpg[/img]
[IMG768]http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/ ... pwc4ly.jpg[/img]
[IMG768]http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/ ... xvrspj.jpg[/img]

Nice finish job! Cherry is a striking wood. Now for the question I really want to know - how does it sound?

Russ