Speaker Cutouts

[boots]

There are probably better ways to do this, but this is how I do it. This is for a 2 x 12 I am building for someone. The cutouts turned out perfect. It is important to immobilize the center piece (I screwed it right to the bench) to prevent a bobble at the very end of the cut.

Pics of the finished cab will follow as it comes together. Not as pretty as some cabs you guys build, but it should work! Once I have the system down pat, I want to try using some nice hardwood.

[Cantplay]

I have a similar jig I made, but I have a slightly different technique.

I drill the pilot hole through, and make a shallow cut on one side. Then I flip the piece over and make a shallow cut on the other side. I make deeper and deeper cuts till it comes through.

This way I get much less splintering.

I am also using another piece of wood underneath, clamped to the work. The pilot goes through tis as well. If you don't do this step, when your blank comes free, the router can kick, and gouge the cutout.

John

[Phil_S]

I use something like this: http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to ... index.html but it doesn't look quite as nice and not so elegantly made. I made mine from masonite.

For people who are really picky, one trick is to carve the hole with the router, but not go all the way through. Punch through at one spot careful to get the punch through hole tangent to the cut line. Flip it over, and finish the cut from the other side with a flush cut bit, allowing the bearing to ride the cut you started earlier in the process. In theory, minor movement of the piece during the final step shouldn't have any impact. This way, you don't have to put any screw holes in the bench.

There are many ways to cut a good round hole. What ever works is a good way to do it!

[rp]

here's my old lo-budget special on a free router I was given. you can buy a jig from partsexpress and rockler but this cost nothing and worked a treat. secret here is to make a few passes and so unscrew the pivot clean out the sawdust, lower bit, repeat. Obviously a piece of scrap ply goes underneath. Not for production but if you're doing just a few baffles now and then. something more open to let the saw dust blow out would be better but this was nicely solid for a bunch of crap quickly slapped together to make baffles on a NYC tenement rooftop.

edit: it helps to fix the scrap ply under the baffle with a few brads at the end you can pry them apart. makes for a real clean cut-out.

[vibratoking]

rp - I'm more curious about that green rotary dial phone.

[rp]

Mint green - and of course it's real. I'm in Italy now, I need to dig it out and see if it works here, it should.

[rp]

or should I call it Seafoam Green?

[martin manning]

Courtesy of Jack Wells, TDPRI. I think Seafoam.

[boots]

That is definitely a cool phone - I vote for Seafoam too.

Those are all great ideas for speaker cutouts. More than one way to skin a cat. I think the ultimate way would be to make a template for each size speaker and use a pattern bit on the router. Of course, you have to first make a perfect template - any imperfections in the template would transfer to the workpiece.

Perfect circle cutouts are something that people (non-amp builders) notice. Likewise, sloppy cutouts are easily noticed by even the most casual observer.

[Phil_S]

Look at what RP did for his router. It is basically the same concept as I posted, but he's simplified by making two spots on it, on for a 10" and one for a 12".

Curiously, I need to cut a hole for a 5" (4 5/8" actual) and the problem I encountered was that the peg hole would have to be inside the router base. I just didn't know how to do that in a way that I thought would be both safe and reliable. Allowing for the diameter of the router bit, the peg would have to be about 2" from the bit. I think you can see why I was uncomfortable.

I bought the circle cutting jig for my Dremel. But it is not meant for plywood. I got all sorts of wobble and the holes were bad. In retrospect, I could probably get the 1/8" Dremel router bit (used with the circle jig) and make a shallow cut. From there I could finish the cut with a regular router and a flush cutting bit with the bearing riding the edge of that shallow cut.

What I really should have done...just buy a 4 5/8" hole saw. Pricey, though.

[rp]

Looks like I need to find a vintage seafoam green strat so I can have a matching phone and guitar. What are custom color strats now, like $25G? Wish the phone was worth $25G

[Cantplay]

For a 5" hole I'd probably use an adjustable circle cutter in the drill press.

http://www.mikestools.com/825-6510-whee ... utter.aspx

John

[Phil_S]

For a 5" hole I'd probably use an adjustable circle cutter in the drill press.

If I only had a drill press....and a place to keep it!

[rp]

I used that same jig to cut out an 8". I just added an other hole under router base using a tapered flush pivot screw. Bummer is the sawdust gets trapped in the cut and not only do you have to undo the pivot but with the 8" you have to remove the jig from the router first requiring some contortions. But, again, if you are only doing one or two baffles now and then it's not a big deal. I was really surprised how well the cuts came out with something so primitive.

[Phil_S]

I used that same jig to cut out an 8". I just added an other hole under router base using a tapered flush pivot screw. Bummer is the sawdust gets trapped in the cut and not only do you have to undo the pivot but with the 8" you have to remove the jig from the router first requiring some contortions. But, again, if you are only doing one or two baffles now and then it's not a big deal. I was really surprised how well the cuts came out with something so primitive.

My jig is really the same as yours. The smallest I can do outside the housing is 7". To do 4 5/8" allowing for a 1/4" straight bit, I'd need to make the pivot hole 2 1/4" from the center. Like you describe, I'd need a flathead screw that would fit under the metal base. I don't think I'd be comfortable with that. With power tools, it is unwise to take a chance when your gut is already telling you no. I bought a new piece of plywood today to make a new baffle for that pair of 5" speakers. I will need to find another method. I am inclined to try the Dremel circle cutter first for a shallow cut followed by a flush cut bit riding that groove. I will have to make the groove wide enough for the bearing, but I think I only need it to be in a small starter spot. This time I will practice on scrap first ;-}