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Damn, this is the hardest part! I am building a marshall style head cab and dont want to use corner covers. Every time I try to make the corner edges neat i end up leaving a gap in the tolex that looks ugly.

I've gotten better, but it's definitely a skill learned thru many trials. Maybe someone has some ACTUAL advice...

I'd also be interested in some useful tips. I don't want every cab I cover to need metal corners on it to look truly professional.

I highly recommend watching Taylor's video (at the sticky) several times. There are a number of times in the video where you can watch him make the corner. He's quick, so pay attention! You can easily rewind on youtube.

I'm not so good at it either. From my own experience, it seems there is no substitute for practice. I also found that it doesn't help to see the cuts laid out on a flat piece of tolex. It looks odd and it will never fit together properly if you precut it. From what I see, you get one chance when the glue is wet.

Meanwhile, metal or plastic corners aren't so bad ;~}

I bought www.rickjohnsoncabs.com tolex and grillcloth "The simple truth" video and it is very good for fender head/combo type tolexing.

Once you get the folds and cuts down it will just be repetitive.i recomend watching the vids and then practice a few times before your real job,you will get it.The heat gun helps for closing small gaps,and say your using black spray paint the wood black on the corners.it just takes doing it to get it down,good luck with your cab,Mikey

Whatever technique used, a really sharp x-acto knife or utility knife is a must.

statorvane wrote:Whatever technique used, a really sharp x-acto knife or utility knife is a must.

Ver very true

First cut - undercut (leaving waste)

Fold adjacent piece over cut piece

Cut once, through both pieces of tolex

Peel 2nd piece back, remove waste from first piece

Fold together in place

Taylor, my problem is the little peak I get at the top of the cut when closed up. Instead of a perfectly rounded invisible corner I have a tiny point at the top that is often hard to close too, and I often hammer in sewing pins to hold the peak shut as the glue dries. I think I'm cutting too high or not high enough? Or I need a heat gun? Sometimes it comes out better than others, and of course I need to do a few a week not one a year or I'll never figure it out.

ampmike wrote:

statorvane wrote:Whatever technique used, a really sharp x-acto knife or utility knife is a must.

Ver very true

This is true for every instance you use a matt knife / exacto, etc. I learned it's normal to change blades or break them off continuously, at first sign of any resistance. Don't be cheap.

Goes for cooking too. If it's meant to cut it must be very sharp.

If you ever cut yourself you'll be happier if it was super sharp, there'll have been less force behind the blade, it'll be cleaner, and heal quicker.

rp wrote:Taylor, my problem is the little peak I get at the top of the cut when closed up. Instead of a perfectly rounded invisible corner I have a tiny point at the top that is often hard to close too, and I often hammer in sewing pins to hold the peak shut as the glue dries. I think I'm cutting too high or not high enough? Or I need a heat gun? Sometimes it comes out better than others, and of course I need to do a few a week not one a year or I'll never figure it out.

Cut right through it to begin with. I'll see if I can take a couple pictures next time I do it.

For that first cut you want to cut through the corner where the tolex is laying flat, and if you cut just barely past that "peak", "wrinkle" sort of thing (I know what you mean) then when you make your next cut, through both pieces, it won't be there when you are done.

I have this extacto knife I've used to cut every single tolex I've done, in 6 years I've never lost it, it doesn't retract, I have cut myself with it pretty bad, hospital twice!!!

I would recommend at least a utility knife, with a brand new blade for every job. Dull blades not only do not cut, but tend to wander.
An X-Acto #11 blade is way too flexible for this job IMHO, and prone to bend and slip, that's how accidents happen…
For the corners I try to visualize beforehand the folds and the cuts and go from there.

Second on the overlapping of the corner material for the diagonal cut with exacto or razor blade, ensuring edges to mate. Also use this technique with a straight edge for the ends of the wrap around. Overlap material, hold straight edge firmly in place then cut through the two layers, lift and trim the scrap and they should butt up together...glue in place

I usually fold a piece of paper in half and then fold a diagonal to get a straight line with a 45 degree angle above it for reference. I don't use it every time but it is helpful to see exactly what 45 degree looks like rather than just guessing.

+1 on the fresh blade. I buy a 50 packs of utility blades in a wall mounted dispenser from Amazon for pretty cheap. They are meant to be disposable.

Keep super glue close buy. I use a toothpick to apply a tiny bit on the underside of the finished seam to keep it from splitting open. It is also helpful when that fresh blade catches your finger and you need to close up the cut and keep moving...