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Do you guys like the Table saw jig or do you like the Router template clamp way of making finger joints ? Which way is faster and cleaner ? 1/4" fender style or larger ? Does anyone know how Fender did it ?

I like to use the table saw.I made a jig that rides in both miter slot.I can replace the index pin to make different size FJ's. The quality of your dado blade will make a big difference.

You can buy jigs http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page ... nQodpWoATw (or make one) to use with a router.That would probaly be faster since you just clamp the jig onto the board and route.Instead of moving the board to cut each joint.

The speaker cabs I've made for myself have been 1/2" plenty strong enough I guess I would do 1/4 if I was gonna sell one.

If I make more for myself I will use a drawer lock router bit.Makes very strong corners and would be much faster but not authentic

I like the router template method.

With a table saw you set a block on your slide, and use a dado blade the same width. Every notch you cut gets put on the block, and this spaces the joints.

Thats all fine when it works out, and most of us can make the jig ourselves. The problem is since its leapfrog measurements, any error is cumulative. If you're off.005 on a ¼" notch, and go 12" Its an offset of .120", almost half a tooth.

With a router jig the spacing is set by the template, and you adjust size by using an adjustable bushing. Error does not stack up as the joint gets longer.

The nice router jigs are expensive though.

John

John Good point .Your jig needs to be very precise.

The Router tempelate method is probly faster and more accurate.I can't justify the cost of a good template.But if you can afford it its teh way to go.

How is chip out with the router method?

I've got a table saw jig, fancy one I bought.

You have to use a backerboard with the router jig.
Taylor I would like to see your fancy tablesaw jig.I'd show you mine but you guys would laugh.

cbass wrote:You have to use a backerboard with the router jig.
Taylor I would like to see your fancy tablesaw jig.I'd show you mine but you guys would laugh.

Yeah have to use backer with jig too. I'm not allowed in the shop on Sundays...

Here's the jig though, woodcraft makes it.

It works pretty good, came with a video.

The key to these is doing test cuts and fine adjustments.

For you guys that use a router on finger joints, how does the router square up the end of the slot?

A straight-sided, square-ended cutter is run with its axis parallel to the grain/long axis of the board. This can be done with a router table in the same way as with a table saw and dado, or the board can be clamped and the router moved against a template as in a router dovetail jig.

As I might one day try this I have a question: I got a custom size raw pine kit about 3 years ago from a carpenter on ebay, just the four box/finger jointed sides, the one thing I couldn't do myself. It test fitted fine but, man oh man, good Lord almighty, after I nicely brushed normal yellow carpenters glue between all the fingers and I went to knock it together - I went through hell. I was whacking the joints with a big rubber mallet will all the force I had in me and then some - In my kitchen, in my NYC apt! Dozens upon dozens of mega whacks - I barely got it together and true. It was traumatic, I thought I was going to break it to pieces or just have it stuck half jointed. I had two kits too and w/ shipping it was $100. I worked hyper fast on the second one trying to avoid swelling but same drama.

Mind you I'm no wussy around wood work. What the heck happened? Either the fingers swelled after the glue hit them or the glue needed some room for itself? When the guy cut the joints was he supposed to leave something like a 1/16" for room for glue and swelling???

Real curious and a warning to others trying for the first time - nothing's never easy.

Never on an instrument but almost always on.. many other things I use West epoxy instead of wood glue. Time is short, but no odd dimensional swelling really. One joint at a time though.

For casual/hobby use, I think you can't beat the "low end" model 1500 phenolic Keller Dovetail jig. It comes with the router bits. For professional use, they have other models. Very easy to use. They are discounted about 15% at Amazon. http://www.kellerdovetail.com/models.html

You can do finger joints with it, too. Just use one side of the jig and align your wood carefully.

Though I haven't needed to, one thing that is really neat about the jig is that you can easily shift its location on the work piece and cut a perfect dovetail of virtually infinite length.

I don't have a place for a table saw, so this is my only option. I have to confine this sort of work to the warmer months and do it outside.

Ran across this while back. http://incra.com/product_rtf_ibox.html

This one looks super http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dyXFE_biEwc

malt wrote:This one looks super http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dyXFE_biEwc