rp wrote:ooh! Power tool discussion. Any beer left?
Sorry. I just pulled the trigger on the MRF23EVS this morning. Everyone just picked and left as soon as I did that, but I see we're out of beer. How could I not notice this?
This is Bosch's new next gen product with a trigger switch in the handle and LED's shining on the work. Even though I'm a southpaw, I figure, let's go for it.
I just got here too - this thread went fast & furious! FWIW, I have a DeWalt router that is leaps and bounds better than the POS Sears router I used to have (I think the Sears was about a late 70's model).
I will never go back to a router without variable speed and soft start.
Now you might as well get a dovetail/finger joint jig to go with your new toy!
I love my POS Sears router for guitar/jig stuff. It's got a locking shaft, a light, and a trigger switch on the handle. Too bad Porter cable sold out, I have a few of their older routers that are pretty tough. I picked up a really nice Bosch in a pawn shop for cheap with the case, two chucks, and wrenches.
I'm just glad someone started the thread! I recently bought a table, and installed my old Sears router in it, (I no longer have to worry about the bit gouging the cab when I'm trying to freehand the edges). So now I need another, (better?) router for the speaker cut outs, etc. Thanks!
BTW, what brand router bits are you guys using? I've got several I use quite frequently - carbide tipped, but lately they seem to be on the dull side - probably worn out. Several were Bosch and the others - can't remember but I got them at Woodworkers Wharehouse here before they closed - must be 8 or 10 years ago. Router is a cheapy Ryobi that I usually have mounted in a homebrew router table.
Selection can be somewhat limited, but look on eBay for seller http://stores.ebay.com/Cripe-Distributing These guys sell name brand stuff for bargain basement prices. They also sell some junk, but not much. Right now, I see a lot of Porter Cable and Bosch, some Magna, quite a few Freud, and some "lesser brands" like Craftsman and Vermont America. You can pick up a perfectly good bit from them for comparative chump change.
Also, you can sharpen bits without much effort. Instructions: http://www.rockler.com/how-to/sharpening-router-bits/ http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/care ... rbits.aspx
The result is OK if you stay on top of things. If your work piece looks burnt, that is one sign of a dull bit. It can also be a sign that your running the router at the wrong speed or you are taking too much material off in one pass. In any case, that heat is really bad for your bits. Along with making the bit dull, it deposits crud on the bit.
There's nothing wrong with a $19 router if it does the job for you. What exactly do you do with it? When a router loads down, either the motor smokes or the bit goes too slow and burns the wood.
I only use a router to round over corners and cut shallow reliefs (like flush mounting a horn), for cutouts I prefer a jigsaw. I've never had luck doing cutouts even with a bigger router, things get too hot with the bit surrounded on 3 sides by wood, and yes smoke happens.
ER wrote:I only use a router to round over corners and cut shallow reliefs (like flush mounting a horn), for cutouts I prefer a jigsaw. I've never had luck doing cutouts even with a bigger router, things get too hot with the bit surrounded on 3 sides by wood, and yes smoke happens.
Sounds like you were using dull\crappy bits or taking to much at a time or both.
If was making a lot of speaker cotouts I would cut it out with a jig saw and use a circle pattern to clean it up.
For smaller holes I would just get the appropriate hole saw.
But it's much more fun to drill a through hole to start the router bit. Then, using a circle jig with the router cut out the hole. At the end, when the center piece gets wobbly, see how good you are at freehand!
Actually, just kidding. Not everyone has every tool and for causal use, the cost of some items can be a deterrent to getting them. I don't have a suitable saw. I went in big for this router and now I really need it to do a lot. The cutting plan is overly complicated, but it goes like this.
1) Drill a hole inside and tangent to the cut line. This hole has to be big enough to accommodate the router bit. You can skip this if you have a plunge router.
2) Use a router bit suitable for cutting a dado. It is best to use a bottom cleaning bit. With the circle jig, cut the circle, but not all the way through. 50% to 75% of the depth of the wood is good. Actually, you can make a through cut about 270+ degrees around. The last 60-90 degrees needs to leave the center attached.
3) Change to a flush cut bit with a bearing on the bottom. Flip the piece over. Insert the router bit through the hole. Let the first cut guide the second cut. Just be careful when you get near the end and the middle piece is free from the outer. The modest pressure from the base plate should be good to keep things steady for the few moments at the end.
4) A little hand sanding will smooth out any imperfections.
Voila!
that I usually have mounted in a homebrew router table.
