Expess cab

[leleduke]

If anyone needs a killer original spec cherry cab for a express, Jim Weyandt is the man. Here is one he built for me last year. I can't say enough about how nice this guy was to do business with.

his email is boogieongtr@EMBARQMAIL.COM
MD
[IMG766]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/l ... 0_3762.jpg[/img]

[geetarpicker]

I agree 100%! He also made me these, and I had a local artist do the word burning on the faceplates. I messed up a bit drilling the switch holes therefore I put some cheater washers on it, oh well. Mine are "Curly" Cherry. Awesome work by Jim!

[img:800:797]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-10/ ... aBell7.jpg[/img]

[img:800:767]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-10/ ... aBell1.jpg[/img]

[img:800:684]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-10/ ... aBell4.jpg[/img]

[mclmk8d]

I've seen Jim's work on TGP...really nice cabs he's done.

[camden_guitarist]

Certainly looks awesome, what does he charge for a cab and how's the shipping?

Cheers,

Paul.

[leleduke]

Certainly looks awesome, what does he charge for a cab and how's the shipping?

Cheers,

Paul.

his email is boogieongtr@EMBARQMAIL.COM

[xray]

Jim's a great guy and does awesome work.

[redshark]

Yes I agree! my first cherry cabinet came from Jim and is a great looking cabinet. As soon as my faceplate is done I will post a picture.
If you need a great cab for your project for sure contact Jim.

[M Fowler]

I forgot about this thread thanks.

[Kitarist]

Anyone knows what kind of lacquer or stain did he use to achieve this nice yellow look of the wood?

Thanks!!!

[Kitarist]

Also i would like to ask if anyone has any plans for building these cabs

[M Fowler]

Kitarist, how is the forum going, I haven't posted there for a long time.

Larry Mann (distortions) also builds excellant hard wood TW cabs and other cabs as well.

Mark

[Bear]

Anyone knows what kind of lacquer or stain did he use to achieve this nice yellow look of the wood?

Thanks!!!

I haven't tried to get that effect on a bare wood head, but thoughts to try:

A lot of custom neck and body companies will give the wood a coat of tung oil to make the grain come alive. That will certainly help with the 3d-ish figure, and maybe a tiny bit with color. If you're using nitro that will age up, that might be enough. (I understand UV will get nitro to do the aged yellow thing.)

On the color, you might get somewhere using clear shellac as a sanding sealer. Even the clear shellac will give a bit of an amber tone, more with each coat, and will also give some depth to the wood figure. The downside of shellac is it can have a bit of a waxy bug's-wing look if you over do it, but as a sealer under poly, that's a fairly low risk.

If you're doing DIY, I'd suggest testing your process on scrap first to see if you're happy with the process before doing anything to that pretty wood head you've built.

Head cab plans are in the Trainwreck Files forum here:https://tubeamparchive.com/viewtopic.php?t=9805

[Kitarist]

Thanks man!!!

[Structo]

Cherry tends to darken with age and also if it gets hit with sunlight.

If you use real nitrocellulose clear lacquer it also tends to yellow with age and UV's.

Deft brand nitro lacquer has additives to keep it from yellowing but I have a couple guitars I used the Deft on.
The oldest one is about three years old now and has aged just a tiny bit so it will slightly yellow but not as bad (or as good) as other brands.

Birchwood Casey Tru Oil is a great DIY finish.
It is made for finishing gunstocks.
Don't let the word Oil mislead you as this is a hard finish and very protective since it is made to finish hunting rifles.
I think it is a polymer varnish and it dries quickly enough to do two to three coats a day depending on the weather.
It doesn't stink too awful bad so it can be done in the house or at least be brought into the house in the evening to dry well.

You rub it into the wood with your fingers or you can use a cloth.
After three or four coats you burnish it with 0000 steel wool, dust it off then continue on up to 10-12 coats, using the steel wool every three coats or so.

After the last coat has dried hard, you can steel wool it lightly then burnish it with an old piece of denim for a fair gloss or you can polish it.

You can also wet sand and polish it just like lacquer if you wish for a high luster gloss.
Great product!
You can usually find it anywhere that gun supplies are sold.
And as mentioned it gives a neck a really nice slick finish.
It is the only oil type finish that Warmoth will warranty.

[Bear]

Walmart generally has Tru Oil if you can't find it elsewhere. Sporting Goods section.