Supplier for 1/16" thick wood for faceplate

[mclmk8d]

Anyone know where I can get 1/16" thick wood for a faceplate? I have a beautifully figured piece of 1/8" cocobolo and I'm thinking I might have to plane or sand it down, but I figured I might as well ask first. Thanks.
Serge

[kec]

Rockler and Woodcraft have 1/16", 1/8", 1/4" in various exotic woods. I just picked up 1/8" piece of padauk (3" x 24") for about $10. I believe I've seen cocobolo before at Woodcraft. Woodcraft has a better selection than Rockler - at least in my stores.

[tubedogsmith]

1/8" will work with PEC pots. I get mine at 3/32" though. A woodcraft shop should be able to help you or direct you to someone who can do this for you.

[Richie]

I don't have the exoctics, but i have the cherry,and many other common types. They are unfinished faceplate size blanks 1/16".

[sst4270]

I buy lumber and cut the faceplates on a table saw.
i.e. buy 8/4 x ??wide x >24" long.... and then run it through a table saw in 1/16" increments. Then hit it with a sander to remove any saw marks.

It's the least expense way IMHO. Also you'll get many faceplates out of one piece of wood so you can pick and choose the best grain pattern that matches your cabinet as well as having a back up supply for future amps.

I'm fortunate that I have a nice small hardwood lumber supplier nearby as well as a sawmill for when I need large pieces of wood.

Good Luck.

If you don't feel like doing that kind of work...
I just checked Woodcraft and they have cherry, maple, mahogany and walnut in 1/16"x3"x24". Prices vary between $6~$7 a piece.


Regards,

Steve

[Structo]

Do you guys have any suggestions for safely drilling the pot and switch holes in thin wood?
So that you don't end up spitting it or ruining it?

Like a favorite style bit and method for the task?

[sst4270]

If you have a drill press I'd recommend using router bits or end mills. clamp the faceplate down (backside up) with a piece of scrap wood underneath and bore the through holes.
I get really crisp holes that way.
3/8" for input sockets
5/16" for Alpha Pots
1/4" for mini toggle switches
and a few various other sizes for larger switches, neon lamps, etc...
For Jewel Lamps which require a really odd sized hole...
I bore a 5/8" pilot hole. Get the faceplate temporarily attached to the chassis so all the other holes are aligned. Then use a dremel and sand or grind the hole in the faceplate to match the chassis.

Regards,

Steve

[mclmk8d]

this piece of cocobolo is SO NICE that I will definitely use it for the face plate

[kec]

I just checked Woodcraft and they have cherry, maple, mahogany and walnut in 1/16"x3"x24". Prices vary between $6~$7 a piece.

Regards,

Steve

They have a lot more to choose from than what's listed on their website. I've seen lacewood, brazilian rosewood, teak, canary, walnut, purpleheart, bloodwood, zebrawood, etc...

[kec]

Do you guys have any suggestions for safely drilling the pot and switch holes in thin wood?
So that you don't end up spitting it or ruining it?

Like a favorite style bit and method for the task?

Drill press and forstner bits make clean holes. Be sure to use a scrap piece of wood under the faceplate to prevent any tearout on the back side. I don't use any clamps for this as it's not really needed IMO.

[FunkyE9th]

Another option is to use veneer. Then you can use a punch like this... http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=95547

Here's my 1st build using a rosewood veneer...

[IMG:800:532]http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e56/F ... C_5749.jpg[/img]

[Structo]

How do those punches work?

Do you just press them down on the face plate?

[FunkyE9th]

You place the veneer between the clear plastic and the metal base, line it up with the correct size hole and punch it.

I've used it with 2" high face plates and it works great for pots and input jacks. For the fender type pilot light, I use the 5/8 size punch and then sand it to 11/16,

I had problems with a mini toggle because the screws holding metal base and clear plate gets in the way. So for that I use this...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... umber=3838 Actually, you should also be able to use this for the pots and input jacks.

[Structo]

Do you hammer the punch or press it with a drill press?

BTW, thanks for the info.

[Richie]

The fastest,easiest way i have found to make the holes,without messing anything up,is to just use a dremel. They have those pointed cone stone bits. mark your panel for the holes.
Then use the dremel,it makes perfect holes. And for the smaller holes, just go in to where you have the mark on the panel. Kinda burns its way through. When done, just a little light sanding. I make the holes before i finish the panel. any spot you might be off,just use a round file to make it right. Usually its never needed. This is on the 1/16" panels. Probably work on the 1/8" but i haven't used those.