18watt Liverpool build *** IT'S ALIVE!!!! ***

[dartanion]

Hey Guys,

Thought I'd share a couple of photos of my 18watt Liverpool build that I started a few weeks ago. Pulled this together on a Saturday afternoon. Can't wait to finish it.

[drhulsey]

... a couple of photos...

Dartanion, what kind of finish did you use on your chassis? Looks like it's bead-blasted.

[RJ Guitars]

Dartanion, this looks terrific... I've started a Liverpool that I plan to switch between 18 and 36 watts... I am basically at that same spot in construction as you are. I found some "SPECTORBAORD" perf board at a local technical salvage/resale place. It looks like the real deal so I am psyched about the prospects of making something pretty close to an original. I haven't bought the iron yet, can you tell me what you have there? Nice job.... rj

[dartanion]

Thanks guys!

These are Ceriatone 18watt transformers that I had on hand, actually 2 sets and the other will be an 18watt Express running 6EZ5/6V6.

Both will have the Mark Durham PP/SE control featured on the Vajra. I am also putting in a tonestack lift switch and a switchable CF to use up the extra triode.

There is no finish on the chassis Me thinks it's just the flash

I've got some new woods in mind for the cabs too. Should be fun.

I am using blue G10FR4 for the 2 boards, also have that on hand...reminds me I need to order more.

I'm sure I'll tweak them to taste.

[UR12]

Hey Dartanion

Looking good! Can't wait to here the tone report. I got a 2 x 12 Marshall combo cab laying around just begging for something like this.

[dartanion]

Hey Dana,

Thanks man! It just gets more fun with each new build

What are planning on loading that cab with? Here's a crazy thought:

AlNiCo Tubby and a Blue

[UR12]

Hey Dana,

Thanks man! It just gets more fun with each new build

What are planning on loading that cab with? Here's a crazy thought:

AlNiCo Tubby and a Blue

I don't know yet. Probably Sammis, but the last time I went on a speaker hunt was for my 4x10 cab and I went through 4 different sets of 10's before I ended up with eminence ramrods. I built a 18watt with Richie's 36 front end in a 2 x 12 combo cab last winter and went with the Sammi 300B50s and they were great with that amp.

[DerStever]

I'm in the process of T-Rexing my 18 Watt GDS (sorry Graydon) based combo. It uses Heybours and Graydon's aluminum chassis. I've got a few minor things I want to do with it yet but they are mostly superficial. The one that isn't will be Dana's voltage regulator.

I used the Ceriatone layout and basically ended up modifying everything from the output stage back to the preamps. I didn't touch the power supply which seems to work nicely just as it is - I'll do some measurments later - but B+ looked healthy and all the safety checks worked so electrically, I think its ok.

This 18 Watt had been modded with NFB and presence and it sounded nice and glassy, so the setup for presence was already in place but I had to do a lot of drilling on the prefab'd board and put in my dinky lil eyelets (I bought the wrong size) - they actually worked out ok and are held in with both friction and epoxy. So don't grade me on neatness when I post pics.

Tone - is unbelieveable... this amp rocks. It uses a celestion vintage 30 and for tubes I'm running all used mullards in the preamps / telefunken in the PI - JJs in the finals and a Mullard EZ81 rectifier - I like glass and these tubes do that. Basically what was in there before. Ive only fooled with it a bit but its a 100% improvement in distortion and has that 'wreck sustain and sings on the clean side. It roars when cranked. Its one loud little amplifier and on the first listen really quiet - not even as much hiss as it had prior!

I do want to install a Fender style pilot lamp - does anyone know of the best kind of drill to use to go thru a plastic name plate and aluminum chassis cleanly?

This is going to suprise folks .......

[RJ Guitars]

DerStever - I use a unibit for just about everything except Octal sockets... and I think that it works really nice because it cuts a very clean hole. Should be just the ticket for plastic and aluminum...

Now, you have tantalized us with some info on a great sounding amp. If Dartanion will indulge the hijack on his thread, would you share a schematic and some clips?

There is another active thread that might mesh well with this one.... https://tubeamparchive.com/viewtopic.php?t=3099 It includes threads to a lot of great amp garage history on two tube EL84 wrecks.

I'd be interested in learning more about any wrecks using two EL84's and especially ones that switch between 2 & 4 tubes...

Meanwhile Dartanion - any progress on your build?

rj

[dartanion]

No problem with the hijacking

No new progress. I've been busy with other stuff namely working on my house.

[RJ Guitars]

Just a glance at my intended Liverpool amp. As I look at my build progress I recognize that Dartanion's is a bit further along... plus those that know me well recognize that this is one of a dozen projects I'm working in parallel and it will probably be a while before I finish it up.

This was a used chassis that I got from a local used equipment salvage place that was right on the specs for a Wreck. I put a new piece of aluminum down over the old top and it seems like it is going to work out well... the new top is thicker and it's much sturdier.

I was especially pleased to find some original "Spectorboard" perf board at the same equipment salvage place and a bag full of flea clips as well.

I'm not sure what I'll use for iron yet... might want to trade someone some original spectorboard toward transformers if anyone has excess iron that is appropriate and has such an inclination.

Ultimately I'd like to switch between 2 and 4 output tubes... although I'm still studying whether it's a good idea or not.

rj

[DerStever]

After some more listens I'm not happy with the TREX - it has the Trainwreck vibe but lacks something in the overall tone - mushy bass and it could use a little less high end. It does have the singing quality but the breakup gets muddy fast and is way late on the volume control compared to my Express. It also only sounds good with old tubes - anything new sounds like crap - or maybe thats me....

I have two minor tweaks to try and if that doesn't fix things I may go for a redo to make it more Liverpool like. If that doesn't work then I'll either put it back to my modded GDS 18 Watt or call for backup.

Oh yeah and being its a combo - I see why Ken stayed away from that. It may be more trouble than its worth.

[skyboltone]

I do want to install a Fender style pilot lamp - does anyone know of the best kind of drill to use to go thru a plastic name plate and aluminum chassis cleanly?

This is going to suprise folks .......

Man oh man, I think a unibit will tear hell out of it. I would use a forstner with a 1/16 pilot hole drilled first. The forstner bit's pilot point won't do metal well.

YMMV

[dartanion]

I drilled pilot holes for everything then used my uni-bit, except for the lamp hole, which I should have used the uni-bit. Oh well. Good thing this is a prototype build. Forstner bit may work, but I wouldn't put mine through the punishment of metal. It would probably want to just corkscrew anyway.

[skyboltone]

I drilled pilot holes for everything then used my uni-bit, except for the lamp hole, which I should have used the uni-bit. Oh well. Good thing this is a prototype build. Forstner bit may work, but I wouldn't put mine through the punishment of metal. It would probably want to just corkscrew anyway.

No doubt forstners are designed for wood. I punched my Hybrid A .09 alum. chassis with them exclusively though. Sure did a nice job. No de-burring at all. On the flip side though, all my unibits were purchased for me by former employers and have been used on the job for everything from sheetrock to #16 guage stainless. No wonder they tear stuff up.

Dan H