TW Head Cabs
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JamesHealey
- Posts: 477
- Joined: Thu Aug 28, 2008 5:34 pm
- Location: Leeds, UK
TW Head Cabs
Hi guys i'm having a head cab made but the guy who's making it can't finish it since his workshop is too dusty to lacquer it..
What is the best way to do this? I've got some clear lacquer not sure of the composition but I did the faceplate with it and it came out quite well hand brushed on..
What is the best way to do this? I've got some clear lacquer not sure of the composition but I did the faceplate with it and it came out quite well hand brushed on..
- VacuumVoodoo
- Posts: 924
- Joined: Fri Feb 17, 2006 6:27 pm
- Location: Goteborg, Sweden
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Re: TW Head Cabs
I had very good results with water based polyurethane varnish for wooden yacht decks. No nasty thinners needed, brush application works very well.
Used it on stained flamed maple handle bars.
Used it on stained flamed maple handle bars.
Aleksander Niemand
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CapnCrunch
- Posts: 220
- Joined: Sun Dec 21, 2008 3:26 am
- Location: Seattle
Re: TW Head Cabs
I'm not sure what is available to you in the U.K. I like to spray pre catalyzed lacquer. It goes on much smoother than brushing. The brand I frequently use is Deft. I use the brushing lacquer. It says you can't spray it, but you absolutely can. It is one of the few decent products left, but you will need good ventilation because it stinks.
You should be able to find lacquer in spray cans. That is also a decent option. I've used spray can lacquer on small projects (like head cabs) with good results. Just apply 6 to 8 thin coats.
I much prefer lacquer to poly. Easier to work with, and easier to repair. Also, your cab doesn't look like it's covered in plastic when you're done.
You should be able to find lacquer in spray cans. That is also a decent option. I've used spray can lacquer on small projects (like head cabs) with good results. Just apply 6 to 8 thin coats.
I much prefer lacquer to poly. Easier to work with, and easier to repair. Also, your cab doesn't look like it's covered in plastic when you're done.
Yo
Im in the same boat as you ,Got the cab done,Been sanding with 320 grit.I been told to use Gun oil,Tung oil,these apear to be the easiest applications.
My cab is mohogcony and the other is a bit of flame maple.I think Im going to go with one of the two oils,Ill let you know how I make out,I know sanding is a big part if you want the grain to really shine.Good Luck ,Mikey
My cab is mohogcony and the other is a bit of flame maple.I think Im going to go with one of the two oils,Ill let you know how I make out,I know sanding is a big part if you want the grain to really shine.Good Luck ,Mikey
Re: TW Head Cabs
Here is a great and easy way to make beautiful finishes - it takes some patience, and it helps to learn how to really sand the right way (using a "planing" stroke rather than a "window-cleaning" stroke)
http://ax84.com/bbs/dm.php?id=313725
Here is a piece of bubinga I finished this way - and it looks so much better in person!
[IMG
768]http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t346 ... all184.jpg[/img]
[IMG
761]http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t346 ... binga2.jpg[/img]
[IMG
761]http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t346 ... binga1.jpg[/img]
http://ax84.com/bbs/dm.php?id=313725
Here is a piece of bubinga I finished this way - and it looks so much better in person!
[IMG
[IMG
[IMG
Re: TW Head Cabs
...and here's a link to the website of the guy who posted this method on AX84 - as you can see, he's much better at it than me
http://www.basicaudio.net/amplifiers.html
http://www.basicaudio.net/amplifiers.html
Cabinet Finish.
I use a similar method, but I simply use tung oil. I don't mix it with anything.
Just tung oil finish. Available in any hardware store.
Other than that my steps are pretty much the same as John's (Basic Audio) method.
Here's an example of one of my cabinets:
https://tubeamparchive.com/viewtopic.php?t=9805
good luck,
Steve
Just tung oil finish. Available in any hardware store.
Other than that my steps are pretty much the same as John's (Basic Audio) method.
Here's an example of one of my cabinets:
https://tubeamparchive.com/viewtopic.php?t=9805
good luck,
Steve
Re: TW Head Cabs
The easy, no equipment finishes would be Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil (aka gunstock oil) and shellac. Brush-on/wipe-on poly is also apparently in that class, but I haven't messed with it -- it intimidates me a bit just in concept.
- Reeltarded
- Posts: 10189
- Joined: Sat Feb 14, 2009 4:38 am
- Location: GA USA
Re: TW Head Cabs
I prefer the ease of lacquer, but the outcome from dark shellacs.
French polishing is a good way to finish. Don't read the first ten steps, just coat it with a brush 3 times, or spray 4-8 coats, then polish with 800 then 1200 then actually start rubbing with the polish. Deep, and beautiful.. just like the finest violin finishes. I used blonde and dark red flake, 20/80 mixture or so. It's not very caustic.. only as much as wood alcohol and bug secretions.

French polishing is a good way to finish. Don't read the first ten steps, just coat it with a brush 3 times, or spray 4-8 coats, then polish with 800 then 1200 then actually start rubbing with the polish. Deep, and beautiful.. just like the finest violin finishes. I used blonde and dark red flake, 20/80 mixture or so. It's not very caustic.. only as much as wood alcohol and bug secretions.
- daydreamer
- Posts: 204
- Joined: Wed Oct 27, 2010 6:21 am
- Location: Perth, Western Australia
Re: TW Head Cabs
I was a painter's apprentice for a few years,and was taught to get high gloss finishes with brushes.
Oil based lacquer must be put on very thin, and you must gently 'lay off' with the tips of the brush.
Then dry for 24 hours.
Use 'wet & dry' (extemely fine emery paper designed to be wet when used, you know the stuff) with plenty of water in between coats, just take enough off each time to smooth the brush marks, (if you can feel it "sanding", more water is needed, it should feel like you not taking anything off! you will only know it's working as the water gets cloudy)
The lacquer will find it's own increasingly smooth 'level' each time.
3 coats will amaze you, 4 or 5 and you will have a mirror finish! alternatively use a satin finish and arrive sooner with a hi class look.

Oil based lacquer must be put on very thin, and you must gently 'lay off' with the tips of the brush.
Then dry for 24 hours.
Use 'wet & dry' (extemely fine emery paper designed to be wet when used, you know the stuff) with plenty of water in between coats, just take enough off each time to smooth the brush marks, (if you can feel it "sanding", more water is needed, it should feel like you not taking anything off! you will only know it's working as the water gets cloudy)
The lacquer will find it's own increasingly smooth 'level' each time.
3 coats will amaze you, 4 or 5 and you will have a mirror finish! alternatively use a satin finish and arrive sooner with a hi class look.
"Too young to know, too old to listen..."
Suze Demachi- Baby Animals
Suze Demachi- Baby Animals
Re: TW Head Cabs
You can get good lacquer in spray cans from StewMac.Com I have painted several guitar necks with it. If you choose lacquer be sure to use Lacquer thinner for clean up. Also I would wipe the cab off with thinner before spraying. It helps it to sick better. 